Hello all,

I bought an 07 Fit yesterday and I'm trying to figure out what is wrong and how to fix it. The rear hatch, you guys call it the rear door? Anyways the rear door is not locking. Is there a way to manually close it till I can fix it correctly? I'm thinking the solenoid is not activating.

Any remedy to short term and long term fix? I'm in the process of tracking down a hard copy of a repair manual. What seems to be the go-to manual for this car?

Thanks for having this forum BTW.

 

Can you lock the hatch using key from the outside? If yes, the problem is no voltage (either because master switch or actuator).
also electrical wire may break (however this is rare) between the doors and body.
The actuator is an electric motor coupled to the gearbox , not just plain solenoid p/n 74896-SAA-003
When it fails it unlocks the door by default
so even if you lock it with the key it may unlock itself
You may want to unhook it from linkage and electrical connector and use key to lock
If you need help removing inner hatch trim panel let me know (you must remove a plastic pocket (aka "handle") at the bottom frame of the door (next to latch)

 

Hello doctor and thanks for your reply. I didn't know there was a keyhole for the hatch. Can you tell me where it's at?

 

Base 2007 model ( like I have) has it to the right of license plate:

 

I have the Sport and there's no key hole like that.

 

Your car also don't have a key hole on passenger door..
This why I bought base model (mainly because of the steel rims to match my nice neighborhood)
So
pull the trim panel and disconnect wires from the lock (there should be 2 of them)
Hook up an analog meter or test light to the harness side and activate the door lock function. The light must light up for a short time (or needle deflect to 12 volts on the meter) if it does, its either motor/gear within the lock or its linkage.
PS electrical schematics and basic repair sections form original Honda manuals are available free of charge from your local library branch website (Chilton on line) ; you can access them from your home computer
I've replaced my door lock cylinder about 5 years ago after someone tried to open it (for fun)
I'll check if this door lock is interchangeable with other models (think Pick your Part)

 

Thanks doctor, you've been a great help! That pdf is VERY helpful.

Maybe you can answer a couple of other questions. I was doing a little bit of surfing here and there looks like there's copies of the repair manual freely about. On the threads I found on the subject, it seems that the links are dead, but it was that they were also quite dated. Is there a copy of manual that you know about? Also I noticed that it wouldn't be a bad idea to order replacement plastic rivets for when you take panels off. Do most people order a collection of these rivets from some 3rd party vendor? You have a suggestion on this too?

 

Wow! I was reading the manual and there's a latch you can move to lock your rear door or hatch! I went ahead and took the panel off to check things out. Looks like there's a couple of those plastic snaps that hold the panel to the metal hatch broke. So I left it off till I got some replacements. But at least I can lock my hatch now! The lever worked fine.

I'm in the process of getting new struts for the hatch. When those come I'll work on that electric solenoid issue.

 

I would be interested to know why your hatch lift support had failed?
I know they fail should someone dent or scratch the rods (by too much cleaning, etc)
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I have a 2007 Fit Sport which had this exact problem. Mine was caused by a rear latch handle not fully closing due to road salt corrosion. When I lubricated the latch handle with penetrating oil and pushed the handle back to the full closed position, the solenoid works to latch the hatch. I needed to reapply lubricant several times and worked the latch in and out many times before the darn thing worked properly. Even so, every once in awhile, it stops working again and I have to re-lube it. It also helps if when you open the latch, you remember to physically push the latch back to it's closed position which actuates the microswitch so the solenoid latches properly. It only takes a tiny movement to make the difference between not latching and latching. With corrosion, the spring is not strong enough to return the latch to closed position.

Update 1/11/2020 Lately I've used Teflon based lube spray and worked it in. Seems to last longer than penetrating oil (several brands including PB Blaster)

 

P. B. Blaster is a really good penitrating oil use the skinny tube and as described above just work the grime out of the latching mechanism. Keep a rag handy for drips!!

 

Well my Pops and me finally got around to working on this and the conclusion on this is the electrical switch is shot. My Pops is great at working electrical problems and I'm behind him on this. This was something I was thinking it was too. Here is a pic on it too;




Anyone know how I can find one. I was thinking of finding it at the wreckers.

 

If you don't find one cheaper, here's a new option...

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuin...6-saa-e01.html

Make sure to do a new search with your VIN just to make sure you get the right part.

 

I got lucky today! I forgot my crowbar as the fits that still had the rear hatch was crunched up. Ran into a '08 that had the hatch all messed up and I was able to get to the switch needed. It had different numbers on it, but it worked. So glad to have this working now!

Thanks to all that responded. Much appreciated!

 

I had the same problem with mine. I had had some body work done due to having been rear ended. What it turned out to be was the tech who worked on my car never plugged the power connector back in. I pulled the panel off and found the power connector just hanging there.Plugged it on and problem fixed.