What the heck is up with these rusting rotors?!
#1
What the heck is up with these rusting rotors?!
I replaced both front rotors on my 07' Fit in October and here I am in March looking at a rusty left front rotor again. I was looking at it because on the highway I started noticing a rough braking sound and pulsing when I lightly pressed the breaks. It's only the left front. Not as bad as last time either. Still lots of meat left on the pads. The outside looks fine. The inside has weird wear on the outside edge which matches to the roughest part of the router.
What should I do? Replace it all again?! The car doesn't get driven during the week and sits outside on the NYC streets so I assume the material in these rotors is just not up to this kind of usage. But this is insane.
Help!
Thanks,
Travis
What should I do? Replace it all again?! The car doesn't get driven during the week and sits outside on the NYC streets so I assume the material in these rotors is just not up to this kind of usage. But this is insane.
Help!
Thanks,
Travis
#3
To point out the obvious - you live in the NE, the car sits outside in the elements and it's winter. Rust happens. Next time, purchase rotors that are coated to prevent rust. Akebono zinc coated rotors would be a good choice, for example.
#4
I was unaware I could purchase rotors that have been coated. Do you know where I can purchase those online?
This is what I ordered:
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuin...1-scc-900.html
Says they are genuine Honda parts.
One thought. When I replaced the rotors i did not replace the pads since they were still very thick. After the repair everything was great until recently. And the right side is still good. Could these pads on the left side somehow contributed to this problem?
This is what I ordered:
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuin...1-scc-900.html
Says they are genuine Honda parts.
One thought. When I replaced the rotors i did not replace the pads since they were still very thick. After the repair everything was great until recently. And the right side is still good. Could these pads on the left side somehow contributed to this problem?
#5
Rotors do rust, particularly, after you wash the car and let them dry out. Same in BMW and Porsches. No worry. But, I don't know why yours only rust on the left side. Maybe the other ones are not as good?
#7
Rotors do rust just from sitting. That's normal and expected. The cast iron (which is used to dissipate heat) is not rust resistant. Salt spray from road treatment contributes to this.
That said, I think you should look elsewhere for the cause of your pulsing brakes. The pads need to be "falling-out free" in the calipers. Or, you could have a seized caliper piston or slider pin. (See if one wheel is hotter than the other side after a drive)
If you find a binding pad you don't really need to replace everything again. Just fix the problem and evaluate.
Our '07 has original rotors after 10 years and 130K miles. There is a 'ridge' building up on the edge from rust, and that could cause pulsation. But it hasn't so far.
That said, I think you should look elsewhere for the cause of your pulsing brakes. The pads need to be "falling-out free" in the calipers. Or, you could have a seized caliper piston or slider pin. (See if one wheel is hotter than the other side after a drive)
If you find a binding pad you don't really need to replace everything again. Just fix the problem and evaluate.
Our '07 has original rotors after 10 years and 130K miles. There is a 'ridge' building up on the edge from rust, and that could cause pulsation. But it hasn't so far.
Last edited by Carbuff2; 03-27-2017 at 07:39 AM.
#9
I pulled the pads this weekend and they feel out pretty easily. I could pull the slider pins and relube those. Maybe they are binding. When I press the break at highway speed it feels like there is a "bump" as the wheel rotates. You don't feel it when you're going slower in the city.
What is the "hub" that should be cleaned. Screws were reinstalled.
Thanks
What is the "hub" that should be cleaned. Screws were reinstalled.
Thanks
#12
At least, that's what I tell myself as I lick the anti-seize off my fingers.
#14
I think I'll pull it all apart again and reapply anti seize to the various parts. When I did the job originally I applied it to the back of the pads good.
Should anti seize go on the slider pins also? Or is that another grease?
Should anti seize go on the slider pins also? Or is that another grease?
#16
Rotors do rust just from sitting. That's normal and expected. The cast iron (which is used to dissipate heat) is not rust resistant. Salt spray from road treatment contributes to this.
That said, I think you should look elsewhere for the cause of your pulsing brakes. The pads need to be "falling-out free" in the calipers. Or, you could have a seized caliper piston or slider pin. (See if one wheel is hotter than the other side after a drive)
If you find a binding pad you don't really need to replace everything again. Just fix the problem and evaluate.
Our '07 has original rotors after 10 years and 130K miles. There is a 'ridge' building up on the edge from rust, and that could cause pulsation. But it hasn't so far.
That said, I think you should look elsewhere for the cause of your pulsing brakes. The pads need to be "falling-out free" in the calipers. Or, you could have a seized caliper piston or slider pin. (See if one wheel is hotter than the other side after a drive)
If you find a binding pad you don't really need to replace everything again. Just fix the problem and evaluate.
Our '07 has original rotors after 10 years and 130K miles. There is a 'ridge' building up on the edge from rust, and that could cause pulsation. But it hasn't so far.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Digimer
Fit Suspension & Brake Modifications
22
05-28-2012 07:05 PM
big Fit
Fit Suspension & Brake Modifications
0
07-01-2009 02:38 AM