Hi!

My first post on this great forum.

Ok, the problem I'm experience goes like this:

Sometimes when i turn the steering wheel it sticks and holds in place for half a second or so before it let's go. The car has been to the dealers workshop for two weeks but the only issue they could point out was that the alternator dropped in current rapidly after half an hour or so. They thought this could be the source to the problem and suggested to change it (for 1500$ here over in Norway!!) I bought an alternator (with very short milage) that had been tested thoroughly and changed it myself and the problem disappeared for some weeks, but now it's slowly coming back and it's getting worse and worse.

I told the Honda dealer and they said that nothing else was wrong with the car neither mechanical moving parts related to steering and suspension or electronically. They simply can't come up with any suggestions on how to fix this and it's really frustrating!

So, my last hope is that someone in here have had the same symptoms and might be able to guide me in the right direction to solve this problem. I've seen one post on this forum that had a similar issue (not exactly though) and it was caused by a bad connection/rust. To me it sounds like it could be a bad connector somewhere too, but the dealer mechanics said they did check all connectors that could affect the EPS. They also said the battery had "good health".

So, some facts about the problem:

1. It happens at low speeds (I think never over 30-40mph). It also happens when the car stands still and it also happens when backing in reverse.

2. It happens most often when i turn the wheel a lot and while the engine is running on low rpm ie. parking the car in in a tight space.

3. The EPS light does not flash when the problem occurs. (It comes on when i start the engine and goes away after three seconds or so)

4. When it happens it does not trigger any audible sound inside or outside the car.

5. When it happens the problem often re-occurs 2-4 times the next 10-20 seconds and then goes away again.

6. When i say "the steering wheel sticks" it feels like it locks or becomes significantly heavier to turn for a very short time.

7. I have a feeling that the problem occurs slightly more often when it rains or in high humidity, but it also happens in dry climates.

8. I did some more testing yesterday and noticed that when turning the steering wheel very quickly it sometimes locked and kind of bounced back again. I.e I turned to the left and when the problem occurred the steering wheel and my hand was pushed an inch or so to the right!

Well, i hope I've described the problem in a understandable way. Please let me know if something is un clear and I'll try to fill in.

Fingers crossed!

 

Good description!

The easy first attempt is to verify that your little battery is up to snuff, and that the clamp on terminals are fully tight (cannot be turned or twisted without loosening the clamps). Some battery terminals are too small for the Fit clamps...might require shims.

Otherwise, I'm at a loss (as EPS malfunctions usually generate a warning light).

 

Thanks for your replay! Just had a look and disconnected the clamps and guess what. I managed to pull them off easily by one hand without loosing them. The + pole clamp was not tight at all and easy to get off. Both of the clamps where fully tightened, but the terminals/poles seams to be too small. The battery was changed one year back at a professional workshop so i took it for granted that they where supposed to be like that.

Could it really be so simple? I can't wait to find some shims and get the clamps fully tight and see if it solves the problem. Do you think i should go back to the workshop and ask them to fix it? Anyways, thanks for guiding me in this direction. Will let you know how it turns out

 

I've used aluminum beer or soda can as shims. Enjoy your beverage, then cut a short strip of the empty can, and fold it over once so that two thicknesses of aluminum go HALF WAY around the terminal .

Loosen the clamp then insert shim. This assures that you still have plenty of original contact area.



I guess the electric steering uses enough amperage to make proper connections AT THE BATTERY important? I'm sure that the shop/dealer checked the connections at the motor, not at the battery.

++++++++

Speaking of the battery, make sure that the electrolyte in it is not low. Fill to cover the plates with distilled water if needed.

 

UPDATE:

Shims applied and clamps are fitted very thoroughly and can for sure not be moved in any way now. (The workshop admitted they had forgot to put them on when they changed the battery).

After i did this the problem still occurs in the exact same way so basically nothing changed. Thanks for pointing this out anyway, Carbuff2. It could absolutely have caused me some trouble sooner or later..

So, I guess I'm back to scratch. Any other suggestions?

 

Any luck or changes with your problems? I am having a similar problem minus that my light will come on and the steering will go out. I also have this happen one night - I still havent done much in diagnosing yet.

 

I have a question? Does your headlights, tail lights, cargo, license plate lights, fog lights (if equipped) have a slight flicker to them when idling? It doesn't have to be severe. I have had the same issues with mine and also my radio kicks out every time the blower for the radiator kicks on. My steering would fail, while turning the wheel my power dips. So I found that the alternator was the issue. Even if alternator was tested "good", it does not mean anything. The regulator was going bad within the alternator which a place like autozone cannot check. Since I have replaced my alternator everything went back to normal. So I know you replaced your alternator once already but it's possible that the regulator prematurely failed.

 

Hi again!
A short update from me:

I dismounted the battery and managed to access the ESP engine and it's connectors. It turned out that they where full of dust (even inside the connectors). The ground connector was very loos and rusty as well. I cleaned the cables and tightened the ground connector and mounted the battery back on. And guess what? Problem gone!
Exact same thing as in this post: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...fit-issue.html

For 1,5 weeks it has been working perfectly smooth without any dropouts, BUT:

Last weekend when I started the engine the EPS light came on and there was no power steering at all. Close to impossible to turn the wheels when standing still and very heavy at low speeds. The problem has been like this since then.

- I checked the 40A EPS fuse.
- Connectors on the EPS (on the steering column) unplugged and inspected - looks OK.
- Connectors on the ECU connectors looks like new and no signs of corrosion.

Any thoughts for further investigation?

 

New update:

Took the car to a garage today and they did a diagnostic. It says (translated from Norwegian): Torque sensor "amplifier" without reach. Permanent.

It looks like the whole EPS on the steering column has to be replaced since the sensor is part of it. Pricey stuff!

Anyone tried to do this operation by them self?