What brand of coils did you use? Deterioration of the coil boots insulation can cause this
Also need to verify that original plugs are tight
If that checks out fine hesitation on tip off points to incorrect erg valve operation

 

 

I need to put this in a word file somewhere so I can copy and past each time...

99% of GD and GE Fit engine problems can be traced to one of three things...
1. Spark plugs - only run Iridium plugs of NGK or Denso brand and gap at around .044. Check regularly because they like to loosen over time and will eject, possibly with the cylinder head threads, if not kept tight.
2. Ignition coils - only run Denso or Hitachi coils. Use dielectric grease on the inside of the boots.
3. Valve adjustments - due every 60k on GD and about every 100k on GE's. Listening to the valves is NOT a valve check. You can not hear a tight valve. If not done according to schedule, items 1 and 2 above are likely to fail more often do to exhaust valve being hung open.

 

What GAFIT said.
I had a shuddering/misfire under load when I first got my used '08 Fit Sport (got it with 184k kms).
It wasn't bad enough to through a CEL (although my OBDII scanner did pickup the misfire in one of the cylinders).

I just replaced all 4 of the coils (using Hitachi units - these will likely come with a blue tip) and spark plugs (NGK Iridiums), figuring it was about time.
Problem solved.

Getting a valve adjustment doesn't hurt either...

 

May I ask you what scanner did you use? My Innova 3XXX is not supporting $6 mode

 

I bought mine from AliExpress for about $20CAD.
XTOOL U485 is the model name/number.
It's a handheld scanner with a cabled OBD connector (so not a dongle or Bluetooth one)
​​​
It's pretty lightweight and made of bright red plastic.

 

 

 

Every time I pull out a coil from junk yard Fit, I notice brownish "dust" on the coil indicating leak.
When changing plugs:
Inspect and clean the plug gasket sealing surface (use vacuum cleaner, hard wood stick, et)c to have no dust or carbon particles on the circular gasket saddle
Do not put anti-seize on the plug threads
Screw plug in until the gasket touches the head (use 3/8" ID 8 " long hose on the plug for this purpose)
Hand tighten the plug until gasket is crushed using 8 inch long ratchet handle
The manual-specified torque seems to be inadequate to properly smash the plug gasket
PS on my car plug #3 was tighter than others to remove; I saw a half moon indentation mark on the gasket seal area, so I put a new plug there (with a "virgin" gasket) at 50k miles to avoid risks of reusing the old plug with may not properly seal the damaged area.

 

The plug you used had either a factory defect or had been dropped to the concrete floor somewhere down the line (If you bough it of e-bay or from the store in not so nice neighborhood, chances are someone was selling defective written off product). Would suggest to look on the piston top with sever camera to see if part is still there