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Brake making grinding sound while driving, skipping while braking, car pulls to the s

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Brake making grinding sound while driving, skipping while braking, car pulls to the s

  #1  
Old 12-20-2018, 05:57 AM
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Brake making grinding sound while driving, skipping while braking, car pulls to the s

A few months ago I took my car into a mechanic to get my brakes done before the winter, and when I got my car, the driver's side brake would sort of skip, like the disk was warped. I had take the car back to get it fixed 4 times before giving up, after they scratched up my wheels. I took it to another mechanic, and they didn't fix it either. The car makes an intermittent grinding noise while braking, and the steering wheel shakes a bit, the grinding continues for a little while after braking then goes away after a while, until I have to hit my brakes again. The steering wheel also shakes very lightly while driving, and the car pulls to the right. Prior to taking the car in for the brake job it drove like new.

Should I just order a new set of disks and pads and redo it myself, or did they possibly break something? I need to get this sorted soon, as I'm going to be moving out of state and this is my only car. Video below shows the grinding at slow speed:

 

Last edited by fr8train; 12-20-2018 at 06:02 AM.
  #2  
Old 12-20-2018, 09:59 AM
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Ignorance is a bliss! There is nothing better like doing car repairs by yourself, using genuine parts and following proper repair procedure!
Looks like someone put cheap pads and/or messed up with hardware, particularly the brake pad support plates (red arrows).



These plates must be removed from caliper brackets, cleaned nicely from rust, smeared with 1600 degrees F anti seize (yellow arrow) and reinstalled. Doing so will absorb nose and vibration generated at brake pad and caliper bracket contact point during during braking.
For more accurate diagnosis pull the wheel off and snap some pictures of the pads and rotor (installed ) and post here
 
  #3  
Old 12-20-2018, 04:41 PM
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Thanks for the response, I'll try to do that. I don't really have anywhere to work on the car, but I have a friend with a garage that lives around 2 hours away. Should I just order new parts and drive out to his garage? I've taken the wheel off when it was warmer in a walmart parking lot and spun the disk through the brake caliper a few times and it sounds like one side of the disk is grinding on something. Like if I spin it it'll grind once for every full rotation in the same spot. When I took it into the mechanic he claimed that he had greased everything up.
 

Last edited by fr8train; 12-20-2018 at 04:56 PM.
  #4  
Old 12-21-2018, 11:44 AM
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Most likely the pads put by the shop were too harsh for the rotor (on junk yard visit I saw a very filthy Fit with brand new front pads made by Valucraft; they cut huge grooves in the rotors. Most aftermarket pads are either more narrow or more wide than rotors, either creating ridge or overlapping the rotor's edge. My former co-worker, a proud owner of well polished high mileage 1996 Lexus LS400, complained about a front brake noise. Turned out that her mechanically inclined BF installed "overlapping" Valuecraft pads that were responsible for noise. Bottom line: I would rather install slightly used OEM pads than waste my efforts on some cheap junk. https://www.knowyourparts.com/techni...ad-wear-chart/
Could you snap a picture with a wheel off and post here so I could be more specific in my recommendation.
 

Last edited by doctor J; 12-21-2018 at 11:47 AM.
  #5  
Old 12-24-2018, 05:41 PM
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It sounds to me like you have some kind of issue with runout. Perhaps the rotors your mechanic got were bad or he didn't clean enough crud off of the wheel hubs before installing the new rotors. If your mechanic simply changed your brake pads without doing the rotors, then that might also be the problem.

Brake pads inevitably cause grooves and wear on the rotors but that's ok if the wear is matching with the surface of the pads. However, if you just change the pads, there might be wear and grooves that don't line up so you will get poor surface contact until the metal wears out to be even. Brake pads last so long and rotors are so cheap that I usually just change both. I paid about 50$ for premium pads and 20$ a rotor for premium rotors. Pretty cheap for a repair that is done every few years.

If your car pulls to the right, I would think that would be a problem with allignment.

A decent mechanic should be able to diagnose the problem in a jiff. Ask a mechanic if he has a dial gauge such that he can check for the runout on the rotors. I don't remember the spec allowance but it wasn't very large, it's like between 5 and 15 thou.

Many people like Dr J use anti seize on the caliper clips. This is probably ok but Honda recommends some special Molykote grease which I use. You should also put some of this grease on the back of the anti squeak backing plate that goes on the back of the brake pads. You can see the location of this backing plate in the above photo because you can see a small metal retaining clip that fits over the edge of the pad at the midpoint between the top and bottom clips. You can grease between the back of the pad and the backing plate as well as between the backing plate and the caliper contact point.
 
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