Mini-Sub Box Design
My final outside dimensions were 8.75x12.5x7. Using 3/4" MDF that put the inside at 7.25x11x5.5 for a volume of 0.254 Ft^3. Subtract the driver displacement of 0.024 Ft^3 and you get the recommended 0.230 Ft^3 from Fosgate.
Thanks for the response. I have another quick question. I'm looking into putting an enclosure here, but the sub I'm using needs .3 cu ft. Is there any way of making the box a little wider, or is depth the only variable with the box in this location? Thanks again.
You can go an inch wider before running into the rear seat latch / tie-down. But to get the .3 cu-ft you will need to also go an inch deeper and this may interfere with the spare tire access cover. I can send you my Excel spreadsheet and you can play with the numbers for yourself. Let me know.
The spare tire access cover will ply side to side so for the few times that you need access I'm sure you can manipulate the cover past the enclosure.
Just a side note... the sound is incredibly punchy and clean. My rearview mirror vibrates "BIG-TIME" to every bass note but its not like thunder that you hear from larger subs. What I'm trying to say is that it is a very satisfying in-the-car sound experience but it won't impress the teen crowd as you drive by.
Just a side note... the sound is incredibly punchy and clean. My rearview mirror vibrates "BIG-TIME" to every bass note but its not like thunder that you hear from larger subs. What I'm trying to say is that it is a very satisfying in-the-car sound experience but it won't impress the teen crowd as you drive by.
You can see the top view of the board I made on the first page of this thread. I used a scrap piece of plywood and drilled out a groove for the tee handle of the spare tire anchor bolt. I then cut and glued 2 foam blocks that I got from some scrap packing material to stabilize the board. These blocks were about 1.5 x 1.5 x 6 inches. Gravity and friction fit hold it in place. Once you cut the corners of the board off just place it is the spare and give it a whack to make an impression of the anchor bolt. Then remove the bolt and trace out the profile around the impression.
Good luck.
Good luck.
The ground went up the same side as the power (non-drivers side) but not far. I lifted a bolt at the rear seat bracket and secured it there. RCA cable went up the drivers side. This separation of power and signal worked out with where I found an existing grommet going through the firewall on the non-drivers side. I've had no problems with anything coming loose and the sound still thumps more that I need. I usually set the sub to -8 on my head unit and that still wobbles my rear view mirror. It sounds great with the Alpine component speakers in the front and Polks in the rear.
Last edited by olias; Aug 12, 2011 at 04:53 PM.
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