2nd Gen GE8 Specific Fit Interior Modifications Sub-Forum Threads discussing interior modifications for the 2nd generation GE8 Honda Fit

Build the Best Clean Sounding System

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Old May 26, 2011 | 04:17 PM
  #21  
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You could get a 4 channel and use two for the front components and two for the subwoofer bridged.
 
Old May 26, 2011 | 04:21 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by smeister
You could get a 4 channel and use two for the front components and two for the subwoofer bridged.
He did say he plans to run a rear stage as well though.

However, if you do only run a front stage OP. This would be a good way to go as well.
 
Old May 26, 2011 | 04:23 PM
  #23  
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Ahhh sorry I missed that...I always think rear stage is somewhat of a filler and not needed in a car, hence my assumption lol
 
Old May 26, 2011 | 04:27 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by smeister
Ahhh sorry I missed that...I always think rear stage is somewhat of a filler and not needed in a car, hence my assumption lol
I agree completely.

My friends for some reason seem to constantly argue that it sounds better with a rear stage. Despite the fact that none of them know a thing about audio and also despite me showing them numerous times that all compeition SQ cars only run a front stage.

Some people don't grasp louder sound doesn't equal better sound.
 
Old May 27, 2011 | 11:10 AM
  #25  
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Rear fill is a 90s term and no longer observed on the IASCA score sheet. No SQ competitor would be caught dead with it in the car. I do not use rear speakers, never have never will. Here's why I AM NOT BACK THERE, and the only person who is would be my daughter and shes too young to care #1 and #2 I don't want amplified speakers right next to her head as we drive.

I would HIGHLY recommend a monoblock for your sub, bottom line they are more efficient than a two channel amp bridged, and odds are the two channel amp bridged will draw more current than a monoblock class D amp.
 
Old May 28, 2011 | 09:43 AM
  #26  
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if your using ipod much, you defeat any need to spend very much for a higher end speakers and HU when you use low end source, simple as that. All you can do here is processor it, like a JBL MS-8 or similar.

So buy a HU with the features you like for cheap, spend about $150 on component set for front. basically don't waste more than $400 on those less you want NAVI..etc. since your doing MP3 music.

Buy a processor, its going to do more to shape and time align your MP3 sound than it ever will to waste too much on other gear plus add many features your HU may not have. A big chunk of your budget, $400-$800 will be spent here.

Get a 2 ch amp and a mono block will give you more options, although a 4ch with 2 running a sub is fine since your using an 8 inch sub, so its not like you'll be usings gobs of power or need much configuring. This can be had cheaply online with adequate quality for what your doing. if you use 8" sub, most will be adequate, i'd use a vented box tuned to 35-38hz for efficiency or 32hz for SQ. sealed will be too flat and lifeless for the power and size you'll be doing unless you start with a larger sub and more power.

A little faded rear fill is fine, some people like it, just use the HU outputs for it or something so you can at least have sound back there if you either like it or for passengers. What SQ competitors do doesnt mean jack squat on the fact that SQ competitors spend tons of money and use top quality source sound...not an ipod. So in your case a little rear fill may actually be preferred.

Sound deaden always helps, besides rattling it reduces road noise. many ways to go about that.

Doing much more than that will be a waste of money honestly unless you'll be using sources better than 128k mp3's. Rule #1 is you never go higher quality than what your source music is, all you can do is shape it.
 
Old May 28, 2011 | 09:38 PM
  #27  
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I disagree on the Headunit with iPod comment soul, I use nothing but my ipod with MP3's at 192K or higher and never have an issue with quality of sound, then again with the features on my headunit that would be why. CDA-9835 if you care to know, but my point is this the Headunit is the Brain so to speak of your audio system and you want the smartest brain you can afford. Hence why I recommended the CDA-117 or if you can find a used CDA-9887 that unit is even better than the newer 117. The newer alpines have plenty to shape sound including time alignment. As for components, again you do get what you pay for, my JBLs are around $250 brand new on ebay. That is about the most I would spend as I have installed and listened to and judged all sorts of components from Focal to pioneer and the mid level around $200 range are in most cases very good and your improvement when going to say a $600 set of components will not be heard by most, nor will most care to tune so you can tell the difference.

If he is set on using the rear speakers then a 4ch is what he should use, as for subs as I recommended a Mono block is the best option. We do agree on the ported box

Lastly what SQ competitors do is valid, they use top end decks for more than just the eq's and xovers built in, such as Alpines Bur-Brown D/A which is amazing. Just because someone is going to use an ipod doesn't IMO mean they should not invest in a quality headunit, it can and does make a hell of a difference in the overall sound of the vehicle.
 
Old May 28, 2011 | 11:02 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Fit4Spl
I disagree on the Headunit with iPod comment soul, I use nothing but my ipod with MP3's at 192K or higher and never have an issue with quality of sound, then again with the features on my headunit that would be why. CDA-9835 if you care to know, but my point is this the Headunit is the Brain so to speak of your audio system and you want the smartest brain you can afford. Hence why I recommended the CDA-117 or if you can find a used CDA-9887 that unit is even better than the newer 117. The newer alpines have plenty to shape sound including time alignment. As for components, again you do get what you pay for, my JBLs are around $250 brand new on ebay. That is about the most I would spend as I have installed and listened to and judged all sorts of components from Focal to pioneer and the mid level around $200 range are in most cases very good and your improvement when going to say a $600 set of components will not be heard by most, nor will most care to tune so you can tell the difference.

If he is set on using the rear speakers then a 4ch is what he should use, as for subs as I recommended a Mono block is the best option. We do agree on the ported box

Lastly what SQ competitors do is valid, they use top end decks for more than just the eq's and xovers built in, such as Alpines Bur-Brown D/A which is amazing. Just because someone is going to use an ipod doesn't IMO mean they should not invest in a quality headunit, it can and does make a hell of a difference in the overall sound of the vehicle.
poor source, poor end result. hardware shapes it but quality of parts itself CANNOT ADD sound characteristics that were not there to being with...see what i'm saying? Everyone has preferences on sound, that is why there is so much variety. What you notice and do not notice does not mean others will not. I can certainly hear a difference between MP3 and Lossless however the difference is far less noticable with cheap hardware...not all cheap hardware mind you, i'm generalizing as that is far beyond the scope of topic.

A top end deck on an MP3 will only accentuate existing sound...it cannot add missing frequencies, loss of dynamics,timbre or levels of frequencies that were altered. This is why so many prefer FLAC over Mp3. With proper EQ it could boost unheard frequencies but most people cannot tune well and it takes pros days, weeks to tweak. A Processor like the imprint or MS-8 will make FAR more difference for the OP than just a better HU will. besides most todays HU's differ in features but don't focus on SQ output. a high end does not mean it will sound better, it means more that it has the features to shape or accentuate.
 

Last edited by soulfly; May 28, 2011 at 11:06 PM.
Old Jun 3, 2011 | 01:05 AM
  #29  
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I also disagree that mp3's are a low quality source. I use high bit rate rips. I know the sound quality isn't cd quality (I can hear the difference), but driving in a car, it's hard to tell the difference for me. Between a low quality rip and a high quality rip, there's a definite difference. Also, a head unit that has a 24 bit dac that bypasses the ipod processing definitely helps.
 
Old Jun 3, 2011 | 08:29 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by centralharbor
I know the sound quality isn't cd quality (I can hear the difference), but driving in a car, it's hard to tell the difference for me.
You can hear the difference yet can't tell the difference in your car...Well that would be due to your existing setup now wouldn't it.

however keep in mind my advice was directed to the thread title "Build the Best Clean Sounding System".
"best" is not MP3, as you said yourself. That being the case, you take alternative routes that will engage the most noticeable difference for that source. That being investing in a sound processor to tune and time align the source so you have a proper front stage. Anything else just accentuates the differences. IF the OP had the budget, then of course he could add other high end gear to further augment.
It takes a complete high end system, to make high end music though.
 
Old Jun 3, 2011 | 08:48 PM
  #31  
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I'm just saying, when you're in a car, it's harder to hear a difference since road noise, attention to the road, and other distractions. If I'm not driving, it's easy to hear differences in quality.
 
Old Jun 4, 2011 | 11:46 AM
  #32  
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Sound damping should always be a first priority in any car audio system. Failure to do so will always lead to a more disappointing result.
 
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