Coax in the doors
#1
Coax in the doors
I have an OLD pair of Polk MM 6520's that I was thinking about installing in the front doors running off of an aftermarket deck I just put in.
I was planning on running the stock tweeters in conjunction with the Polks. I assume that the stock speakers are crossed over with a simple filter soldered in series and not a separate board that splits the signal.
For those that have experience with installs in the Fit, do you think this would be a good idea or would I have all kinds of lobing issues with the highs coming from two different sources?
Thanks!
I was planning on running the stock tweeters in conjunction with the Polks. I assume that the stock speakers are crossed over with a simple filter soldered in series and not a separate board that splits the signal.
For those that have experience with installs in the Fit, do you think this would be a good idea or would I have all kinds of lobing issues with the highs coming from two different sources?
Thanks!
#2
Just to update this for future reference, I installed a pair of Polk DXI650 in the front doors using the mounting bracket that came with the speakers. It BARELY fits due the height of the tweeter and our dumb-ass inverted built-in speaker grille. Find a good position to mount the bracket, drill, and mount the speaker. That easy.
The old school MM6520 did not fit due to the size of the basket and the height of the tweeter.
I have an Alpine CDE-126BT running the factory treble speakers along with the Polks in the door and the results are a mixed bag. If a song has a lot of hi-hat, chimes, or similar type of tight, airy percussion, I get height cues from all over the creation. Sometimes on the dash, sometimes from slightly below it, and sometimes out in space by the a-pillars. Pretty weird if you are paying attention to that stuff. On the other hand, I get the crisp highs I felt were lacking in the factory system which is a big plus and I can dial the treble back on the HU.
The plan is to keep the dash tweets on, but passively high-pass them up around 8K or so just to supplement the Polks. If that doesn't work, then I may just pull them...or get components and move the coaxials to the rear.
The old school MM6520 did not fit due to the size of the basket and the height of the tweeter.
I have an Alpine CDE-126BT running the factory treble speakers along with the Polks in the door and the results are a mixed bag. If a song has a lot of hi-hat, chimes, or similar type of tight, airy percussion, I get height cues from all over the creation. Sometimes on the dash, sometimes from slightly below it, and sometimes out in space by the a-pillars. Pretty weird if you are paying attention to that stuff. On the other hand, I get the crisp highs I felt were lacking in the factory system which is a big plus and I can dial the treble back on the HU.
The plan is to keep the dash tweets on, but passively high-pass them up around 8K or so just to supplement the Polks. If that doesn't work, then I may just pull them...or get components and move the coaxials to the rear.
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bargainguy
3rd Generation GK Specific Fit I.C.E. Sub-Forum
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10-16-2017 05:10 PM