youve goootttaaa get the plugs, all the way, or pay someone to do it.
A smelly coil could be a good hint, and i think its time to hit a harbor frieght to get some cheap tools vs. No tools. I dont recall needing allen keys for that junk, just sockets..1/4 drive ratchet, some normal sockets and an extension or two. U-joint if you wanna get fancy. I can even post up pics of the tools!

For the pcv valve, look at the throttle body. Its got all those curvy bendy pipes attatching to it. One of them moves along the side of the engine coming toward you, then drops down in front right corner (from your perspective), turning into a rubber hose then at the end. BAM. pcv valve. Good luck gettin the lil guy out of there, felt like a PITA to me, but thats the guy.

 

Some easy FIT maintenance items videos & links are here:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...fit-sport.html

For the thorottlebody on the Fit, some people said you don't want to remove the moly lubricant on the butterfly hinges. So some people recommended dampening a rag with throttlebody cleaner and avoiding the hinged areas. You want to clean the butterfly valve and the big tubular section adjacent where the air rushes in. Search the links and videos for more ideas.

PCV valve is very easy and steps are in links above.

 

Took out air filter assembly and inspected throttle plate.

So first off it's not THAT easy. I had about the expected amount of unexpected difficulties. The pcv hose (I think) is difficult to get out of the rubber connector. And the battery needs to be relocated briefly to get the airbox pulled out.

This throttle body could pass for new, don't you think? This is BEFORE wiping down with cleaner. Clearly, this is not my problem.

 

That part of the Throttlebody is usually pretty clean but that does not matter.

The outside lip of the butterfly and the corresponding part of the tube need to be clean. That tiny gap is precisely calculated. Carbon build up will change how much air enters the engine at idle so aur will not be correctly metered.

EDIT - you can see those critical areas of the butterfly and throttlebody with the butterfly wide open.

 

Well I can't see anything now since it's buttoned back up but I did try to gently push open the throttle and wipe with the cloth. Yes I got a little black, just very minimal as I would expect from a 40K mile car.

I think a spark plug purchase is in my near future. Here are the ones I intend to get. I hope they will not make the car hard to start in the winter ... these are heat range 22 and could make more power when paired with premium gas. Assuming I can fix whatever problem that I am confident will still remain once I have new plugs in.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...92271&jsn=1759

 

I definitely missed the mark directing you to the PCV Don't take advice from dumb people.

So to make amends I pulled the doc and took some damn pictures. I'd rather lose a finger than make a youtube.

As you'll read in the procedure, you can test the PCV without removing it by pinching it's hose while the car is running. Apparently, it should click.






My sincerest apologies

 

Hehe its ok.. Hopefully someone else benefits from those great pictures.

I actually came on to say I just did exactly that, pinched the hose ... You can clearly hear the click. So I think I am going to take that off the table for now. Did see while looking it up the GD crowd has it much worse with the valve.

 

That's a solid @Pyts !

 

Here's a guy with an interesting story to tell. The end of this (very long) thread is a plugged cat that accounted for the car being very sluggish at low RPMs, despite generally seeming fine mechanically.

Hope this is not my problem although this would be less expensive than a torque converter. Long way to go before I reach either of those conclusions tho
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum..._low_rpm's

 

ooOooOOOOooO.
Theres an awful way to test this.. disconnecting the cat! Itll set off car alarms, I've done it on a different vehicle. Two stuck on bolts. Makes the car feel different, but the fault will be gone if its the kitty.
Also, I'm glad that was appreciated

 

We had two (GM) cars with clogged cats. 3800 v6 motors. In our cases, the engines bogged down going up steep hills. Couldn't get above say 3000 rpm even with the pedal floored.

- Can you check the temperatures of the upstream and downstream 02 sensors with a ScanGauge or similar? If downstream sensor is massively cooler than upstream sensor, you may have a suspect cat. Search the forums to see what baseline temp ranges are for each sensor.

- Another option is to check temps with a sensor gun before and after the cat.

- As Pyts notes, you can disconnect the cat (or pull the upstream 02) and see if that solves the issue.

I don't see too many FIT cat problems posted here but if you have a lot of miles or stop-and-go driving or ran rich I suppose those could eventually kill any cat.

 

Much classier!

 

You are a class act Pyts - always appreciate your technical content and social banter!

 

Old plugs. Nothing about how plug #2 looks surprised me.

Car feels stronger.

But still has this behavior ..
Cruising at 1500 rpm
Increase throttle
Rpms rise to 2000
One second later Rpms fall to 1500
Car accelerates slowly unless you give it more (then Rpms jump to 2500 and things happen)

Still confident this is valve issue. Man will that be a project vs just the plugs ...

 

Scan gauge coming tomorrow. OBDLink MX+. Should provide some useful additional info to help eliminate or reveal issues.

Looks like the app allows reconfiguration of the driving screen so you can see what you want. I'm thinking I should look at throttle position sensor, maf, fuel trim (not sure what this tells me), timing ...

 

Great!
I find almost all the data useful or at least interesting. The codes help but the data is gold for DIY work.

Fuel trim data is awesome and can help sort tuning and gas mileage. Really helps get to the bottom of engine issues. Below is a fantastic example of fuel trim charts used on a different 4 cylinder engine - learned so much about cars in 5 minutes here:

https://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co...n-warm.839453/

Do some more research on fuel trims as they are a lot of fun. Youtubers "South Main Auto" and "Diagnose Dan" are a good place to start.

 

Thanks! Will read up!

Already know there's no codes- dad has a reader I bought him years ago. Amazing 10 yrs back it was 50$ just to see the numerical code (then look em up yo self oh yeah); now $80 to get that PLUS sensor readouts and more in real time and or logged to file ... $50 for the Android windows only version of this device (I needed iPhone so had to get the more recent device). Progress Not saying I don't miss $80 but if that saves a single unneeded component its worth while.

Plus kinda fun.

 

$80? Jesus, I spent $11 dollars for the bluetooth dongle and another $6 for the Torque app and get to watch mine. It's been years since I've played with it, you're making me want to go plug mine back up just for the hell of it.

 

I did not see any other options for less that could monitor multiple sensors in real time. Feel free to point me to one. There are some slightly cheaper options if you just need Android connectivity, certain car brands (looked like there are some domestic only ones), or are willing to pay a charge for each additional new car. Doesn't really work for me though

 

My MX+ arrived! I have been driving around with it plugged in, trying to make sense of the many sensor outputs as I go (and not run into someone's mailbox).

I have been reading up but the most difficult piece seems to be what is "normal" so you can figure out if you have got something not normal. Here's some observations. Not looking for advice, just putting it down here and but will update as I go.

• Timing under medium or high acceleration could be as high as +30/+50 degrees. Drops to 0 at idle, negative if you get off the throttle entirely. I do notice when at 1-2k RPM and opening the throttle a little - my bogging situation - timing might drop to 10 until rpms rise a little and/or torque converter unlocks to get the revs up.
• Fuel trim seems to hover around +3% at steady speed, pushing up to 7,8 under high RPMs. Will go negative if you get off the throttle. I think that's normal.
• EGR valve "error rate" is incomprehensible
• 02 sensor voltage is mystifying
• MAF rate (g/m) is not something I've looked at in any detail
• Throttle position % starts at like 9% or something odd like that, but the % does not jump around for any given pedal position which is great

Still running premium gas and my colder IK22 plugs.

MX+ capsule review: Super easy to set up, love the configurable dashboards. Have not played with logging at all. Looks like the code reading would work well, but I have none. The app REALLY sucks up battery if you watch the readouts while you go ...