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New 2011 Fit Sport

Old 01-13-2019, 02:44 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Oporto
Posts: 13
New 2011 Fit Sport


Brother just picked up a used 2011 Fit Sport with about 65,000 miles from original owner. Car is awesome. Super well maintained with just a few minor niggles. Sparkly blue with black interior. Auto transmission paddles are a lot of fun.

This is an ownership log.

Repost to this forum as there may be some links helpful for other new owners

Owner had about $5k in maintenance receipts from dealer, including:
- 20k, 30k, 40k, 60k full dealer service
- Changed fluids (brake, coolant, transmission, motor oil) at 60k
- rear shocks at 60k
- front discs/pads at 55k
- tires/alignment at 40k

Yesterday, we vacuumed interior and washed exterior.



Front bumper is a bit off. Passenger side had three clips at fender disconnected. The headlight clips are not really connected either so there is some minor damage inside, maybe with the big black plastic mounting bracket behind the bumper. We unscrewed the bumper at the fender and removed a few plastic knobs. Pressed the three bumper clips so they snapped in and the bumper lined up with the fender. Finally replaced the fender screw and plastic knobs. Headlight area is not quite 100% but close.

Driver's side bumper has a bit more damage. There is a dent size of quarter on the fender that requires some paint, minor paint damage on fender and fender that will mostly come out with polish. We pushed the bumper into the three plastic tabs and looks pretty good. We will remove bumper this spring and fully fix bumper to a higher standard (probably need to replace the rectangle black brackets under the headlights).

Bumper cover corner ripped (tab for the fender screw). How can that be repaired?

This helped with bumper refit

Replaced 4 tires. Balanced all tires and realigned front-end. Rear end was in alignment already.
General Altimax RT43 (based on recommendation by
spike55_bmw on original alloy rims

2 tires are somewhat damaged so we will have to replace them this week.

Two tires' TPMS transmitters stopped working. Will have those repaired and paired to car's transceiver.

Noticed the famous grinding type noise at start in the morning. This is how it happens. Turn key, starter sounds fine for say 2 seconds, just when engine starts, grinding sound for say 1 second. Based on the forum, it seems that is either the famous starter or

The sound is similar to this (albeit videos are for Accord & new gen Fit, respectively)

Probable diagnosis starter

Replacement video starter 2008 fit ($125 Denso part. Looks painful to remove!!)

Maybe less likely VVT Solenoid

I see some issues with VTC actuator but that seems to impact next generation FITs and other CRV/Accords as far as I can see.

Hear a rattling sound when accelerating sometimes. Sounds like a rattling exhaust heat shield. Sound is not so different from the starter noise above.

Prior owner had Honda dealer adjust and screw down heat shield. And had independent mechanic do the same.

No idea what this rattling on acceleration is.

The plastic knee panel under the steering wheel is a bit loose. Will have to look at that for missing screws or clips. Easy fix.

No idea if this plagues this Fit. Getting to the spark plugs should be easier but frankly does not look too brutal for DIYer.

Sister had spark plug loosen and blow out on old Buick and destroy engine, so a bit sensitive here.

Don't smell fuel and engine runs perfectly so not sure this is a problem. Maybe this spring when weather improves, we will just check torque, change with factory platinum plugs and consider a bit of lock-tite this spring.

Dealer told me he does not adjust valves until 100k (unless there are issues that indicate earlier adjustment). Maybe we will DIY this with spark plug change this spring.

Car did not start day after purchase lol. Used a new Harbor Freight "smart charger" for a few hours to rebuild & recharge and no problems since. This is a 2016 Autozone battery; we have receipt so maybe can get that checked at shop. Has a 3 year 100% warranty.

Considering easy upgrade to bigger Groupe 51R battery

One of the keys seems to have a dead battery. Will have to do some research there.

Broken rear-left window won't move. We will look at electrics.

Front-left window is a bit slow. We will grease tracks cables and motor; add some silicone on rubber.

Prior owner changed air filter and oil filter April 2018. Additional maintenance:

- Clean throttle body & IAC valve (caution as don't want to spray off moly lubrication at butterfly valve)
- Clean MAF (only special MAF sensor cleaner, don't touch internals)
- Clean EGR valve and passages (very easy access on Fit and common issue apparently)

The engine bays on the FIT seem to get very dirty in snowy areas. The battery contacts, clamps etc. are pretty crusty. So will do some "voltage drop" testing to identify areas of high resistance under load for cleaning electric contacts. For sure battery terminals/contacts will need cleaning. Will also look to clean grounds to engine/frame. Clean alternator contacts. Clean starter contacts. Redo "voltage drop" tests. This cleaning can: improve battery power/life, reduce alternator load, improve drivability, resolve some niggles.

Resistance testing & parasitic draw tests:

*** CAUTION ***
Battery and electrics are very dangerous (danger of death, shock, fire, explosion, blindness from acid, lead, destroyed car, etc). Wear googles and use extreme caution. Research hazards of car batteries and electric before starting. Make sure that multi-meter probes wires are plugged into to proper ports on multi-meter.

"working on cars.. voltage drop testing do you have a digital voltmeter..set it to 20 volts DC. engine off.. headlights on for one minute. then turned off.. check battery voltage.. 12.65 is a fully charged battery. 12.45 is a 3/4 charged battery. 12.25 is a 1/2 charged battery. if you have less than 12.5 volts have your battery charged and load tested.. once you verify that the battery is close to a full charge after you have removed the surface charge with the headlights on trick... get the engine started... turn the headlights back on.. Negative battery post to the positive battery post.. 14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected.. Negative battery post to the engine block. 0.04 volts DC MAX.. Negative battery post to the body of the car.. 0.02 volts DC MAX. Engine block to the Body.. 0.02 volts DC. if you get more than the 0.04 or 0.02 volts on tests 2, 3 or 4.. you have a bad ground connection.. you can and should also.. after running the voltage drop test above.. test from the battery post to the alternator output terminal.. because of the amount of output.. i normally expect this to be up around 0.07 volts.. "

Last edited by Fiting; Yesterday at 02:08 PM.
Old Yesterday, 02:04 PM
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Oporto
Posts: 13
This week's maintenance:

- Washed exterior & vacuumed interior

- Refit front bumper at RH & LH fender. LH fender minor repairs and polishing to be completed in spring

- Replaced 4 tires. Balanced all tires General Altimax RT43 (based on recommendation by spike55_bmw on original alloy rims. Only needed to replace 2 tires but there was a buy 3 get 1 free sale so that made sense.

- Realigned front-end. Rear end was in alignment already. They provided a diagram of measurements. Pre-alignment, 6 measurements were "yellow". Post-alignment, 1 measurement was "yellow."

Car handling even better with new tires/alignment. Tire noise much quieter.

Last edited by Fiting; Yesterday at 02:11 PM.
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