p0304 Misfire, Intermittent
p0304 Misfire, Intermittent
I've been having an issue with a misfire lately. The first code showed cylinders 3 and 4. Subsequent codes have only shown cylinder 4. Additional codes included mass airflow, ABS, traction control, and EGR sensor. The only thing consistent between codes is the cylinder 4 misfire. I swapped the spark plug and coil to cylinder 1, but 4 still misfires. Most of the forum posts indicate coils, so I'm not sure where to go from here (though I'm thinking injectors is next on the checklist).
I first started noticing a bit of a hickup when cruising between 55 and 60 mph, but no codes came up. I'm also about 3 miles per gallon lower than I'd expect in terms of fuel efficiency.
The car is a stock automatic base 2013 Fit with 120k miles. Plugs and valves were done at 110k. I've recently changed the serpentine, engine coolant, brake fluid, rotors, and pads. Oil and filters are changed with the maintenance minder, and I usually change trans fluid at the same time.
The code for the misfire has only been happening every 20-60 miles, and I haven't noticed any patterns.
Is there anything I should check before injectors? Should I have them cleaned (they have never been serviced) or should I replace them? OEM or offbrand (half the price).
I first started noticing a bit of a hickup when cruising between 55 and 60 mph, but no codes came up. I'm also about 3 miles per gallon lower than I'd expect in terms of fuel efficiency.
The car is a stock automatic base 2013 Fit with 120k miles. Plugs and valves were done at 110k. I've recently changed the serpentine, engine coolant, brake fluid, rotors, and pads. Oil and filters are changed with the maintenance minder, and I usually change trans fluid at the same time.
The code for the misfire has only been happening every 20-60 miles, and I haven't noticed any patterns.
Is there anything I should check before injectors? Should I have them cleaned (they have never been serviced) or should I replace them? OEM or offbrand (half the price).
Try doing a cylinder power balance test. While the car is running, unplug the electrical coil connector for each cylinder and listen for an engine response. Plug it back in when done. You should be expecting a drop in RPMS if the cylinder in question is working right. If the engine shows no change, then that cylinder would be the problematic cylinder.
Does the car seem to run better if you rev up the engine? If so, you may have a vacuum leak.
Does the car seem to run better if you rev up the engine? If so, you may have a vacuum leak.
All the same issues I had with 36,000 miles on the clock when two (2) spark plugs were loose.
Do you smell napalm in the morning?
Once the Check-Engine-Light (CEL) comes on, the Vehicle Stability Assist (VSA) light comes on saying that it won't operate.
Check your spark plugs. You have to work 'blinded' in from the passenger side of the engine with your left arm / hand or take out the heating / ventilation / airbox above the engine to have 'visual' access to the coil packs / spark plugs but that process starts with removing your windshield wiper arms. It's a journey.....
Do you smell napalm in the morning?
Once the Check-Engine-Light (CEL) comes on, the Vehicle Stability Assist (VSA) light comes on saying that it won't operate.
Check your spark plugs. You have to work 'blinded' in from the passenger side of the engine with your left arm / hand or take out the heating / ventilation / airbox above the engine to have 'visual' access to the coil packs / spark plugs but that process starts with removing your windshield wiper arms. It's a journey.....
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Alex Smith
2nd Generation GE8 Specific DIY: Repair & Maintenance Sub-Forum
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