2012 Honda Fit cranks but wont start
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New Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 8
From: Fort Worth,Tx
2012 Honda Fit cranks but wont start
2012 Honda Fit 75k auto transmission went out this morning to start it and it just cranks but wont start has been running fine no problems I've owned it for about 4 mo and Its been great any help is appreciated
It has been pouring rain for 2 days and hasn't been started for a couple days
It has been pouring rain for 2 days and hasn't been started for a couple days
Member
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 604
From: Northern Illinois
Yea, it worked fine until it broke. That's what happens
Quick test to see if its a fuel issue. Spray some starting fluid into the air intake. If it starts and dies out quickly it's a fuel issue. Then go from there.
New Member
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 9
From: Scottsdale AZ
Crank., No Start
The differential diagnosis for Crank No Start can be quite broad. Good idea to shoot some starter fluid. If you suspect a fuel delivery issue, typically a bad fuel pump will show signs of gradual failure, as opposed to suddenly failing completely.
1. Rule out immobilizer. Is there a blinking green key on dash when attempting to start? If your key battery is on the fritz or dying, that may prevent the proper signal from reaching your anti theft immobilizer module which could prevent a start. I'm not certain if the fuel is cutoff or if the starter itself is cut off.
2. Rule out bad crank position or cam position sensors. Best way to go about this is simply to swap in new ones, they are fairly cheap and avail on amazon. The crank sensor is at bottom of engine near fly wheel. Its obscured by a metal protective plate. cam sensor is on rear aspect of engine at the posterior or caudal aspect (toward the rear) and its easiest to get at it by removing the intake air tube and throttle body.
3. Bad Pulse Plate? The crank and cam position sensors rely upon a rotating metal notched plate that triggers magnetic pulses as it rotates in proximity to the magnet in each sensor. The that plate has loosened or cracked, etc, the pulse to the sensors could be disrupted.
4. Bad Wiring Harness? If the signals from the Crank and Cam position sensors are not being carried effectively to the ECU by the wiring harness, that could prevent a proper start.
5. Bad timing? If the timing chain, tensioner or timing components have failed the engine may not be timed correctly and that could prevent ignition whereby the injection of aerosolized fuel is not in synch with the compression stroke of the piston and corresponding spark for detonation. May want to remove timing cover to inspect chain and timing marks. This can also be done by inserting a metal rod in the first cylinder through spark plug hole and noting any TDC marks on the crank (however, this may not be as accurate as visualizing the timing marks on the cams, crank and tensioner.
6. Rule out bad ECU? Hard to do, its a diagnosis of exclusion once everything else is ruled out. Blind leap of faith.
1. Rule out immobilizer. Is there a blinking green key on dash when attempting to start? If your key battery is on the fritz or dying, that may prevent the proper signal from reaching your anti theft immobilizer module which could prevent a start. I'm not certain if the fuel is cutoff or if the starter itself is cut off.
2. Rule out bad crank position or cam position sensors. Best way to go about this is simply to swap in new ones, they are fairly cheap and avail on amazon. The crank sensor is at bottom of engine near fly wheel. Its obscured by a metal protective plate. cam sensor is on rear aspect of engine at the posterior or caudal aspect (toward the rear) and its easiest to get at it by removing the intake air tube and throttle body.
3. Bad Pulse Plate? The crank and cam position sensors rely upon a rotating metal notched plate that triggers magnetic pulses as it rotates in proximity to the magnet in each sensor. The that plate has loosened or cracked, etc, the pulse to the sensors could be disrupted.
4. Bad Wiring Harness? If the signals from the Crank and Cam position sensors are not being carried effectively to the ECU by the wiring harness, that could prevent a proper start.
5. Bad timing? If the timing chain, tensioner or timing components have failed the engine may not be timed correctly and that could prevent ignition whereby the injection of aerosolized fuel is not in synch with the compression stroke of the piston and corresponding spark for detonation. May want to remove timing cover to inspect chain and timing marks. This can also be done by inserting a metal rod in the first cylinder through spark plug hole and noting any TDC marks on the crank (however, this may not be as accurate as visualizing the timing marks on the cams, crank and tensioner.
6. Rule out bad ECU? Hard to do, its a diagnosis of exclusion once everything else is ruled out. Blind leap of faith.
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knightjohannes
2nd Generation (GE 08-13)
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Aug 26, 2016 06:32 PM