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2009 Honda Fit Sport 1.5L Presents with a positive Crank, no start, no detonation condition. Prior to the no start condition engine was throwing code for persistent cylinder 1 misfire. No 1 cylinder spark plug, coil and fuel injector were replaced. Engine immobilizer is in RUN state. Crank and Cam position sensors were replaced. Scan tool is indicating a pulse issue with CAMSHAFT sensor. There is an abnormal voltage coming from one of the oxygen sensors (Downstream I believe). During intervention it was discovered that passengers side ground strap was not connected. It was reconnected, no change. New ECU did not resolve the problem. A new wiring harness was installed, that did not solve the problem. I am using an Autel MK808 platform. There are no engine codes. There is an ABS code ECU/PCM relation failure which was not present before the ECU was swapped. I suspect the new ECU had newer or older ABS firmware and that either the ABS module and/or the ECU module needs to be updated. I don't think that code is relevant to the no start however if anyone wants to chime in, I'm all ears.
Early on in the process I smelled gas and there was fuel on the #1 spark plug, however, I have not taken fuel pressure measurements, nor have I attempted to spray starter fluid into the intake, which I plan to do. Based on my preliminary scan readings however, I suspect the issue is camshaft position or crank position related. At this point, I am eyeing the Camshaft Pulser Plate. Perhaps it was worn or has been damaged? I plan to use a boroscope and record the video of the crank pulse plate moving at both the camshaft sensor insertion and crankshaft sensor insertion. I'm looking for broken/damaged teeth, metal etc.
Can Anybody lend some input on what they think the issue is?? here is a youtube link to a video showing exactly what the Scan Tool is showing during cranking. Missed Pulses at CPS, and periodically at CPK. Anybody here in FItFreak land can lend me any ideas what I may have missed? Anybody experience this scenario?
Thanks for the reply, The scan tool confirmed that the IMMOBILIZER was set on RUN, so I have ruled out the immobilizer. I will test fuel delivery with starter fluid and report back. There was fuel on no1 spark plug when last removed, so I am leaning away from Fuel delivery. The Crank Video above shows that the CMP B sensor has a "no pulse' condition every so often. Any idea on how to explain the video??? Anyone?
Nope, have all original parts removed, Crank sensor, Cam Sensor, and old ECU. I have them all here. Still at a loss to explain the CMP B No pulse per the video posted above. Thanks for your suggestion.
UPDATE: The starting fluid sprayed into the intake yielded no additional progress, and I smelled gas. There is no spark, and I suspect it is related to the CMP pulse plate located on the back end of the single overhead cam that operates the valves. Perhaps it has shimmied loose? Plan to remove both CKP and CMP sensors and have a look at each respective pulse plate for damage or debris using a boroscope and report back.
One final diagnostic measure, may be to order an Autel autline 539 R device to have a closer look at the sine pulse waveform and synch that the CKP and CMP are producing.
If the pulse plate is off, that could also mean perhaps there is a timing issue. There are only 43k miles on this engine, its still a baby, and I'd doubt there is anything going on with the timing chain, guides or tensioner. I'm not appreciating any chain slack. The engine ran for the previous 1000 miles without a hiccup. It suddenly out of the blue developed an intermittent cyl 1 misfire that after 2-3 hrs of driving became persistent . That led me to replacing #1 spark plug, coil and fuel injector to no avail. Following completion of the fuel injector swap, the engine never started back up again and has been in this crank, no spark state ever since.
So again, the ECU has been replaced, as that was what I suspected, and to no avail. There is no spark, there is crank and there is fuel. The scan tool shows several CMP B No pulse events when cranking, please see above video. I am stumped. Perhaps someone has experienced this and can shed some light on how to proceed. At this point, I am considering changing the Cam Pulse Plate, a $15 dollar part, and relatively straight forward procedure, empirically to rule that out. If that can be ruled out, that leaves something regarding the waveform through the harness to the ECU that could be at issue, or perhaps a bad ground somewhere. ECU, Immobilizer, Fuel Delivery, CMP/CKP Sensors, and Wiring harness from the CMP to the ECU have been ruled out as culprit. Any insights out there in fitfreak land?
I'm never a fan of firing the parts cannon at an issue like this. If it ran before you changed everything and now it doesn't why not revert parts to the way you had it? Changing engine computers and sensors for a misfire is excessive.
SOLVED?: haha, yup, there was gas reaching the cylinders..but no spark ..and had nothing to do with the wiring harness or the CPK/CMP despite the odd pulse issues that my scan tool was picking up ... good ole Ignition Coil Fuse was blown. She fires up now. I didn't have time to trouble shoot whether there was a misfire or not still on cylinder 1. The new ECM may have solved the no 1 misfire or perhaps the fuel injector, since both were done, it will be impossible to tell unless I put the old fuel injector back. Will update the thread.
I was going to suggest checking ALL the fuses. You may still want to do that. Got that idea from Scotty Kilmer videos.
The why of the coil fuse overloading is interesting, but you may just want to carry spares after all this.
Good question Fiting and thanks to you and ClayClovin for the advice . Coil was good. Likely a short to ground. here are my thoughts below.
SOLVED: The no start was caused for sure by the blown fuse, however, what caused the fuse to blow remains a mystery. This was the perfect storm of odd variables. A no 1 misfire that happened 1000mi after a engine swap. New Plug, New Coil, and New Injector, none of them resolved the issue. I was in the process of removing the valve cover to do a valve adjustment when I discovered that the passenger side ground was disconnected. It had been that way for 1000 miles since the new engine was transplanted. After reconnecting the ground and putting the intake/etc back on the vehicle, the fuse must have blown, and the car went into this idiopathic no start condition that had me stumped because I was too reliant on my computer scan tool. Regardless, I proceeded in swapping out the wiring harness and the PCM and of course, the fuse. So vehicle runs well now and question is what fixed the No 1 misfire? My suspicion is that is was PCM, that perhaps the poor grounding overloaded the PCM and when the ground was reattached, the PCM shorted the Ig fuse. The grounds are very very dainty on this engine, I may follow the advice of many others and put some better grounds on especially the negative battery cable. The other less likely scenario is that there was a random short somewhere in the old wiring harness and perhaps my removing it or jostling it when i was disassembling the top of the engine tweaked it just enough to short our the Ig Coil fuse. That seems like the less likely scenario. Overall, I think this was likely a grounding issue and let that be a lesson to our community to make sure you have good grounds to your engine or you may get some really nasty gremlins.
