So, found a problem that popped up in my 5-spd 2009. The clutch was making a whirring noise and also was hard to shift into 3rd, 4th and 5th. Would grind slightly into 3rd and just hard into the others. Even on downshifts.

I checked the slave cylinder and it had some leaking appearing from the rubber boot. So, replaced. Bled and got it seemingly working fine. Went on a test drive and pedal got really hard to press and then was NOT going into any gear at all. If I shut the engine off and shifted into a gear and started with the clutch depressed, the transmission was in gear of course and the car wants to jump like the clutch was not pressed. Pedal is rough and acts almost like you are pressing so hard, something could break. Loads of tension...

Thoughts? Is the throw out bearing toast? I don't want to dig into the transmission if it is something simple I missed on the slave cylinder...

Looking for anyone that has had similar issues and can relate.

 

Not one person has any input?

 

You asked for input from individuals that had personal experience I've never. But here's this:
"Jay Safford
Automotive Mechanic
15 years of experienceYou need to open the bleeder on the slave cylinder to see if the clutch can be pressed down? If it still cannot be pushed down then the problem is in the clutch master cylinder and it is binding. If pedal is able to be pressed down then you have a seized clutch pressure plate and need to replace the clutch." - yourmechanic

The complaint was a rock hard clutch pedal after having the master and slave cylinders replaced

Edit: alternative to bleeding fluid, perhaps you could dismount the slave cyl. so that it aint engaging the shift fork? I hate bleeding fluid.

 

Pyts-

Thank you for the input.

It is strange. Before I replaced the slave cylinder, it was hard to get into 3rd, 4th and 5th and on the downshifts. However, a few times, you would be in first at a light or a stop and the car would chunk or jump like it popped into gear. Clutch pedal depressed and in first waiting to go. Did not happen all the time...

Once I replaced the slave cylinder, pedal feel was really good. Drove the first time and was really hard getting into any gear while running and moving. Came back to bleed some more and then the pedal got hard but still worked. Only could shift the car when the engine was off and was smooth and went into each gate easily. Once started and engine at idle, I couldn't get it into any gear. When forced into first, it would hop and chunk. When in gear and engine off, with clutch pedal completely depressed, when I would start the motor, it would turn over the motor and engage the clutch so it would creep forward as if in gear (which it technically was).

I suspect the throw out bearing is shot and will replace the clutch and bearing for sure. Just want to make sure it isn't something simple you have to consider after a slave cylinder replacement. Hate to do all that work and find out it needed some sort of easy adjustment.

 

I didn't grasp that you'd replaced the slave cyl. from your first post. faults are kinda all over the place. before pulling the clutch, check your fluid capacity and maybe pedal adjustment to make sure it's doing what it can, as well as (obviously) making sure there's no air in your clutch lines. But if you're feeling like there's a mechanical fault, intuition is a better guide than anyone could offer yuh. I felt like my clutch was screwed up even though it grabbed fine and was quiet. Was just looking for any reason to pull the stocker out (as much as I dislike that job). make sure if yuh do it to get the flywheel resurfaced/use a runout gauge on it or buy a new one. Not something I'd want to re-service before necessary or draw out by any means. have everything before the first bolt comes out if possible (including a blind hole bearing puller, don't eff up that hole.)
​​​​​​

 

I would do what Pyts suggested. Have a friend check to see if the fork is moving while pressing on the pedal.

I have had similar experience two times, but this occurred on the highway on highway speeds. Pedal would be rock hard, extremely difficult to go into gear and of course crunch while doing so. Resulted in clutch replacement due to a spring popping out.

Your results may vary, or mileage may vary... whatever the saying goes.

 

The fork is moving but barely. I am in process of removing the transmission and replacing the clutch. A lot of debris in the transmission fluid so, I am going to just get it done. It's not a lot of money for me to do it.

Anyone suggest a good kit that is for a purely street car with longevity in mind? I have checked a lot of places and seems they all have the same thing. Just want a brand that seems popular with these cars outside OEM which is much more money.

 

I was just talkin to another dude about their clutch in this thread, post 5 and on: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-generation-ge-08-13/103273-pop-bang-sound.html

exedy clutch is fine.
concerned about yer supposedly nasty mtf. it doesnt.. circulate through your clutch. it's just in the tranny..

 

Found the issue...

 

Resurface or replace your flywheel, dude
I vote replace, start fresh.
I've said for years that I felt our stock clutch to be too grabby, and the springs take the brunt of rough transition rotational force. can get permanantly compressed and wiggle out.
The exedy has a narrower pad on it (see thread I linked you to earlier for images). I also heard from SPEC that their clutch kit is smoother than OEM, but that's like 500 dongs I didn't have.
Nice work getting the thing out so quick!