Hello!
I have a very strange sound coming from the front of my car that has become progressively worse. It happened after getting my pads and rotors replaced and I went over a speed bump. It sounds like a repetitive creaking of an old ship when I apply the breaks. Especially noticeable at low speeds as I come to a stop. I have brought it to multiple mechanics that have replaced all break pads, rotors and calipers to no avail. It's really strange. They are all confused and both told me all Honda fits sounds like this... The car does not vibrate or anything else just weird creaking and yawning sound that you can sort of feel in the break pedal only when you apply the breaks. In the past it only happened once the vehicle was warm now it seems to happen every time you apply the breaks. Has anyone else experienced this problem or have any guess on what to check? My Honda fit is a 2013. Much appreciate any advice! Below are a few links to videos for you listening pleasure!
This last one I am barely applying the breaks and barely moving.
Video 3

Thank you!

 

Maybe something stuck in one of your tire treads?

Maybe try getting up to about 20mph and putting the transmission in Neutral and coasting down to see if it sounds different.

 

Had a similar issue with my '07 Corolla. It was an issue with rear drum brakes. They were worn out pretty bad.

 

Interesting Idea Bowbridge. However, it only seems to happen when I am applying the break pedal but definitly worth a try to see if I hear anything different.

donlogan, definitly something worth checking although the sound seems to becoming from the front.

Thank you both!

 

It's very clearly a creaking sound and is associated with the rotation of a wheel.
First thought is that the brakes were messed with and well, they said it was a normal sound. I doubt you need anyone to inform you that was a lie. I'd re-inspect the front end's braking components. I'm inclined to rule out alignment, because the noise occurs only under braking, and can be produced at very low speeds. So steering geometry buggery isn't being exaggerated by the front end dipping. rules out strut associated issues too.. as well as tie rods, ball joints, control arm bushings, wheel bearings. The sound isn't consistent with air in the brake line, and i assume you have a responsive brake pedal. It doesnt match up with stick-on wheel weights. They're mostly metal and like to clack.

The sound reminds me of warped rotors, where the pads rub on a high point. I'm wondering, how much time passed after the bump before the sound developed? I wonder if something was lost that caused your rotors to warp. Like brake pad springs.

Shown here, but covered by the caliper when everything's assembled - credit to some fingerless glove wearing guy i found via google image search.

Or perhaps absence/improper seating of squeal clips.
Whatever the case, there simply isnt much more to discuss that could make such a sound. Unless your tires have some serious goop on them, like they're brand new and no one took off the stickers, now they're coming off on their own 😂 but that would be obvious and short term, prolly not sound so consistent. Come to Atlanta, I'll fix your brakes. Oh, and never take advice from a mechanic who says "they all sound like that".

 

Pyts,

I think you solved it or at least I hope. I pulled off both wheels and calipers today and discovered that the pad spring clips were missing on both sides... thank you for the picture. I am going to buy some of these and see if this solves the issue. Not sure why they would replace the whole caliper before trying this...

thanks for all the help and insight. Here is a photo of the pad with no clips...

 

@Pyts is the man! Good troubleshooting thread.

 

Hah, no accolades earned here, I've experienced much the same, there just wasn't any noise when it happened. So really, this was a fun twist. I've still got to finish that lecture on fasteners that you posted, Fiting.

Now for our poster! Since we've verified absence of the springs we now have to consider resurfacing or replacing the rotors unfortunately. The new springs may not spread the pads enough to fully overcome the warping that must have occurred to create the sound demonstrated. If the rotors weren't warped, it's my assumption that it'd sound like a constant rub, easily overlooked.
The springs are obviously very simple, small, and rough-fitting (that's to say there's play when installed) things. Things matching that description may seem unnecessary, but they are in fact the only things keeping your brake pads from rubbing on the rotors! Without those springs, the pads are never spread apart after being compressed, so they wear faster and get hotter than they would under normal operation.

The pads will rub and make the rotors retain while accelerating/cruising (when they should be cooling off) and then sit against said rotors when you stop. So here's the theory: The excessive heat generated by all this rubbing makes the metal of the rotors get relatively soft, making them vulnerable to pressure. Then stuff gets squeezed and they warp! Alternatively, they get squeezed and cool at different rates: the area covered by the pads vs the uncovered area of the rotors, and this contrast in cooling causes the deformation.

​​​​​​But don't be too sad about replacing the rotors (quite reasonable at ~ $60.00 or less for a good set when properly shopped for) because the absence of rubbing will actually restore (through removal of resistance) some lost power and fuel economy!! Your car used to have more pep, and you'll be getting it back.

If you'd like to test the assumption about warping, you need only to remove the offending wheel/s once more and take a straight edge to the rotors. I assume they should warp on both sides, since the system works by pinching, so you may well get away with checking only the exposed side in a couple places. A sturdy metal woodworking square similar to what's seen below should get the answer for you


From Home Depot, costing under $5 USD
I've got this exact one and used it for this purpose.
Here's a link incase you need it.

 

Thank you Ptys for all your great info!

Here is another potential twist to throw into the mix. I called the Honda dealer today to get an exploded view of my brake calipers and after talking with the park clerk and reviewing the drawings. It appears the 2013 Honda Fit front brakes has no pad springs, they Honda does on other models but apparently not on the Fit for that year? I am not sure what is suppose to keep the pads off the rotors. My pads have the holes for the springs... I am very confused now about what the issue could be.. Potential a damaged retainer clip?
Attached is the exploded drawing they sent me.

 

This is awesome!!
The original brakes had springs on them. I can't prove it however, as I didn't take pictures!
That means the reason they were missing is because they don't come in the new sets (if bought from Honda, aftermarket sets *should* come with them, mine did) and intend for you to reuse the old ones.

So whoever did your brakes didn't install the springs, not because of error so much as technicality. The new pads come with anti-squeal clips for the brakes to sit in if I'm not mistaken, and most come with springs, leading one to assume everything that should be installed/replaced is included. So it falls to the technician to look and think: these were there before, so they should go back on.

If you're wondering whether they're needed, well, you experienced warping and these are singularly purposed to prevent that. Even if they were never on the vehicle, you need them because you experienced the thing they prevent.

So where to from here? O'reilly's sells the hardware kit (I think shipping outweighs benefit of ordering them online). Here's a LINK. You can call them with the part number found in it, or get them from another store, it's just that I'm used to seeing O'reilly's stores everywhere.
​​​​​​
Alternatively, you could replace the pads with aftermarket ones and the new springs will come with them. If you want a specific parts recommendation, I went with Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramics via rockauto. I can't speak to improved stopping power since I added slotted rotors at the same time, but they seem good all around so far.

 

Hello Pyts,

I appreciate all of your wonderful information. I am looking for some clarification. Why is Honda saying across the board (multiple dealers) that they don't come with pins? The issue here is I believe you, however, I can't convince my mechanic as this is what dealers are saying. The dealer is saying that the caliper ears or caliper pins which are listed as part # 45237TomFrankGeorge01 part #12 are designed to do the same thing as the infamous pins. They are said to: They are called retainer clips and they are listed as: "These clips can increase fuel economy while eliminating brake noise. These springs/clips can be difficult to install, but they always should be re-installed. ... This can keep the brakes cooler, reduce noise, and extend the life of the pad. The clips fit between the pads and rotor and push the pads away from the rotor."

Is it possible that in this assembly they replaced the standard break spring clip with the retainer clip and it does not function as efficiently hence why buying a spring clip assembly and putting it on the car is the only what will fix the issue? The Honda guy says having issues with the caliper retainer clip can cause the same noise. He is adamant that yes, they don't come with these spring pin clips we are talking about but they also do not have that as part of the assembly at all. In other models, you can buy it separately but for this model, it is not part of the braking system.

Is this a good plan?

• Expose breaks and use the square method to check for the warping of the rotors.
• Remove Caliper retainer clips and inspect them.
• I was going to do a little DIY testing the caliper retainer pin to see where wear is happening. I am going to use powdered laundry detergent, get it down to a finer powder, and dust it on then using a black light to expose any small cracks and any significant wear that cant easily is seen with the eye. Similar to mag participle testing I thought this might reveal more info.
• Take notes of the findings, I am sure we will determine warped rotors and then go back to the drawing board. My plan is to stand there with them with all the new parts and watch them try to assemble it. They have noted needed to file shit down.. which doesn't make any sense so figuring out what is happening there and then asking for the addition of the spring pin clips for redundancy to ensure we "really fix the issue". Is there a disadvantage to using these if they "don't come with the assembly?"

I am honestly wondering if some hungover engineer fucked up the drawing and this is a weird issue for a lot of folks that doesn't often get exposed.

 

I recently purchased the Bosch Ceramic QuietCast brake pads for a different hatchback and they seem fine. Bosch also makes rotors for the Fit.

Brembo make some braking parts for the Fit also but they are more expensive.

EDIT- I know a few people in Europe that broke drilled rotors. Those guys drove very fast and very hard in the mountains, which is not really possible in the US. Regardless, I would avoid drilled rotors for street use in any case. I don't recall any issues with slotted rotors among my group of friends but that is a small sample size.

 

I may check out Bosch for pads next time! To be plain, I made an error with my current configuration and willingly omitted that I'd purchased not just slotted but also drilled rotors.
They were from a company called dynamic friction, with which I'm not familiar (wanted to give them a chance) and the part of me that wanted to see what "improved braking" feels like won out. It's an odd trade off when discussing drilled rotors, along with slotted. You lose mass, and thusly thermal capacity, but if they do indeed cool better (and that is indeed an "if"), you won't need as much thermal capacity!
But then you have these irregularities in your spinning heatsinks, which really are exposed to a hostile work environment.. Not to mention the fact that the holes promote irregular cooling (areas around the holes). You know what, I found an article that phrases it all better and more thoroughly than I could. It also serves to match your own findings, Fiting.
https://www.turnology.com/tech-stories/lets-break-down-some-brake-myths-shall-we/
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I'd wanted to purchase only slotted rotors, but they aren't sold reasonably based on my findings.The slotted portion of the rotor surface does improve stopping, but I've got to say, I don't really like it.. It doesn't match the vehicle. I wanted a more robust system because I've been hauling a toolbox with me lately, and driving through Atlanta's traffic jams. but what I'm getting is.. All the brake engagement I need to stop is right at the tip of the pedal now. I liked having a broader range of control as my extremities are rather clumsy!
I'll instead try out a performance rotor from Raybestos, which is a plain faced type with coatings only on non-contact areas. I like that they list their runout and density standards, and plain faced rotors make the most sense to me.

Sorry for deviating from the thread. I do think the added article will be useful to yuh though, OP.

 

I"m having the same issue - terrible - replaced rotors and pads more than 2x.

 

I had a similar creak on my Miata with the passenger side rear. Replaced the rotor (twice) and pads, cleaned/bent dust shields, etc. In the end it turned out to be a bent hub. I had the hub replaced and no more issues.

 

Thanks - in my case the noise only occurs after brakes are warm and applied.

 

It was the same for me. That is why in the video I pulled the parking brake a little to simulate light braking pressure. I would only hear it when the brakes had been used a bit (warm) and under light braking. Moderate/heavy braking and the noise was suppressed.

 

My case is with the front brakes - so testing out today, the noise is evident when the brakes warm up quite a bit - the clunking noise is there when applying the brake gently or hard braking - doesn't matter.

I don't know what to think about this - I did get the hub replaced last year as the dealer told me that my hub was bent! Unless they lied and did nothing.....