Oil pan hairline crack
One gent in the comments for a product I'll link directly to below said he used wax to stop the leak, then applied epoxy. I assume it was applied over the wax.
autozone
I can't attest to this method or if it's wise. Seems like an emergency fix, as there's potential for the wax to come off and obstruct your oil filter and pump screen. How much wax enters the system would be proportionate with risk to your engine. Paraffin is made with petroleum, so maybe it would dissolve in hot oil (engine oil temp is supposed to hover around 230-260 F, but its peaks can be higher). If possible I'd recommend testing this off-vehicle before attempting the repair. I gotta say, if this works it's pretty f'in clever, and I wanna hear back from you about it!
Like what product you used for the wax, and of course, if it works.
Edit edit edit: it should melt paraffin which has a melting point between 115 and 154 F. Based on my googling, it should dissolve in oil. You may want to do an oil change after, with the engine at operating temp so that the wax is dissolved and comes out.
autozone
I can't attest to this method or if it's wise. Seems like an emergency fix, as there's potential for the wax to come off and obstruct your oil filter and pump screen. How much wax enters the system would be proportionate with risk to your engine. Paraffin is made with petroleum, so maybe it would dissolve in hot oil (engine oil temp is supposed to hover around 230-260 F, but its peaks can be higher). If possible I'd recommend testing this off-vehicle before attempting the repair. I gotta say, if this works it's pretty f'in clever, and I wanna hear back from you about it!
Like what product you used for the wax, and of course, if it works.
Edit edit edit: it should melt paraffin which has a melting point between 115 and 154 F. Based on my googling, it should dissolve in oil. You may want to do an oil change after, with the engine at operating temp so that the wax is dissolved and comes out.
Last edited by Pyts; Aug 27, 2021 at 01:46 PM.
If it's just oozing oil, I'd just live with it until you got your replacement. I would also look to a used oil pan from a junk yard. I haven't changed the oil pan on my Fit but I have found that oil pans in general are easy to remove and install. Just make sure to follow the torq specs and pattern closely.
Thanks for the feedback.
I’m pouring about a quart a day in and parking on a different street every night. A non dealer is going to buy an aftermarket pan and put it on. I’m paying too much but can’t really diy.
But my point is why paying for an OEM pan and going to the dealer?
Buy your own aftermarket pan and go to an independent mechanic. It will cost you less and the pan will do the same job anyway, whether it is OEM or aftermarket!
Buy your own aftermarket pan and go to an independent mechanic. It will cost you less and the pan will do the same job anyway, whether it is OEM or aftermarket!
This is not acceptable. Stop driving the car or get it fixed today. No kidding.
I got a drip pan
Why would you purchase a new oil pan from a dealer? MSRP is almost $400 just for the part. RockAuto has aftermarket ones for $60 - $70 plus shipping. You can get a used one from a junkyard for a lot less than a new Honda one as well. Find a local mechanic you trust and never go back to the dealer.
Follow up. My mechanic, whom I trust, put on an after market oil pan. Oil continued leaking, but less. He said we must use Honda oil filters, not the non Oem filters he was using. He was right . No leaks now.
That's bizarre! He may well have a good reason, but I've been using purolator filters for quite a few years and I've never had one cause a leak (nor a wix, a fram, what have you). I'm sure they do have varying designs of pressure relief valves, and said designs may well be patented, but I'm to understand that most err on the side of letting dirty oil pass through versus letting a clogged filter spike pressure. It's awesome to hear that your issue is resolved, even if the solution sounds a bit suspect! (I'd sooner think the aftermarket filters he was using were problematic vs. a need for an actual OEM filter)

Maybe the filter he used was a lightly modified Natural Ice can. Or it was the same filter that came with the car, now, finally, not working.

Had a 91 Previa a long while back. family mechanic never changed the 4th spark plug because it was hard to get to (required accessing the mid-mounted engine via the cab by flipping the front passenger seat back, opening a flap in the carpet and unbolting a many-bolted access panel).
No wonder the thing had a misfire at 250k. That was what started my doing automotive. Wish I'd saved that spark plug...
Oh hey, call the mechanic and ask for the old oil filter!

Had a 91 Previa a long while back. family mechanic never changed the 4th spark plug because it was hard to get to (required accessing the mid-mounted engine via the cab by flipping the front passenger seat back, opening a flap in the carpet and unbolting a many-bolted access panel).
No wonder the thing had a misfire at 250k. That was what started my doing automotive. Wish I'd saved that spark plug...
Oh hey, call the mechanic and ask for the old oil filter!
Last edited by Pyts; Dec 12, 2023 at 09:10 AM.
Mark me as another curious about the oil filter comment. We can probably debate the filtration performance of different brands all day, but from the outside a filter is a filter: a can with a gasket to seal against the side of the engine. Unless you somehow damage the gasket on install or poke a hole in the filter canister, there's really no way for a filter to leak. Neither option has anything to do with the brand of filter.
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