I went ahead and revised the above post to reflect what I used and how. The torque wrench I used does not click or ratchet. While this is largely inconvenient, it does have a dial which indicates the amount of torque being applied as it's being applied

*0-50 ftlbs
So! I was able to take note of the torque after snugging the plugs and in between snugging and achieving torque.
I'm also quite comfy with the accuracy of the tool since the maximum is only 50ftlbs. All torque wrenches I've seen measure accuracy between 20 and 100% of the maximum.

 

Hi, so the plugs you took out were at 18-20 ft-lbs and the new plugs you put in are at 10-11? Or am I mis reading what you wrote?

 

All good! The plugs I took out had been torqued to 18-20ftlbs. The new plugs I put in were also torqued to 18-20ftlbs. The crush washers on the new spark plugs didn't start to compress until 10-12ftlbs of torque was being applied to the plugs, which I was able to recognize because of the type of torque wrench I used. I wanted to highlight this because the old torque spec was so low. 13 or 14ftlbs. It occurred to me that an inaccurate torque wrench set to torque 13-14ftlbs. may not fully compress the crush washers.

It would be an interesting data point if a person or two that had plugs loosen or eject wound up not having their crush washers fully compressed. I don't know if that would serve to explain the loosening/ejection, but it would be neat to find out.

 

Good post, Pyts.

 

Just changed plugs on our new to us 09 Sport w/ 91k. Plus number 2 was hand tight. All plugs and packs looked healthy. Anti-seize and 20ftlbs. Crosses fingers.

 

@jonshonda I'd suggest keeping an ear out for them. Nickel anti-seize (clarifying type because it's what I used - can't comment on copper) permitted loosening for me after just 3 months.

 

Yeah I swear I saw a post here that showed the FSM calling for anti-seize, but I might just go back in and remove the anti-seize just for good measure.

 

It was here https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...000-miles.html

 

Yeah I just found the FSM online, and it does indicate that as well. I will check in a few months and try to reply back.

 

Was this the OEM plug that was installed at the factory, untouched by the previous owner? If you happen to know . . . .

 

Can you post a photo of it, the other threads image was kind of hard to read.

 

I can't say for certain it was untouched by the previous owner, but based on the lack of other maintenance items I can be pretty certain they were the OEM plugs.

 

Have a 2012 Sport with only 24,000 miles and I have a concern about the plugs. I want to have them checked now that I know other people are having issues with plugs becoming loose.
The question is do I just have the original plugs re torqued to the new 20 lb. requirement or will these 11 year old plugs not take the new torque. Car runs perfect and I don’t want to causes problems.

 

If you are going to go to the trouble of checking the plugs, you might as well change them out for new ones. Here's what you might do:

1) If you are just going to put a wrench on the plugs and tighten them, then don't replace the plugs.

2) If you are going to remove the old plugs (for any reason), then replace them with new ones.

My thinking is this: Removing and reinstalling spark plugs is not something that you want to do more than necessary. It puts wear on this surfaces, and it's easy to screw up the threads. I'm not saying never touch your spark plugs. I'm just saying that if you want to fiddle with something, find something else to fiddle with.

Be advised: Others will insist that you should never replace a single damn part on your car unless someone holds a gun to your head because it's always better to save money. These are people who have four dollars the bank and cars that run like shit.

 

Mine loosened and ejected, frying the coil packs. Boy was I surprised. Had to limp home 60+ miles, Poll taken.

 

Just for the sake of math, anyone have sales figures on honda fits? Just trying to get an idea of just how common this occurrence is.

 

x 2.

Good question.

 

I feel the same way also.... My plan is to try to remove the plugs, just gently at first, and then with a bit more effort. If any are loose or close to being loose, I'll notice. And once I'm in this far, I'll just replace them with new ones. Sure I've also got 24K miles (like the earlier poster) but I'll be more confident in a new plug than an old one with a crushed washer that has been taken out once already and re-installed.

 

@Pyts I used to have one of these little cuties, but I stopped using torque wrenches altogether after over-torquing an engine oil drain plug with an inaccurate torque wrench, and I found it impossible to get either my Sears torque wrenches or my Snap-on torque wrenches checked for accurate calibration. Not happy about it, but this is the best I can do for now.

Your plugs look normal in that picture, and I like the colored numerals.

 

I'm embarrassed to say I never got around to changing the plugs in my '10 Fit which I bought new. So, on 1/19/2023 at 180,000 miles, I did change them, as well as both O2 sensors. Plug #2 seemed a little loose, and the boot of the coil was "tan" discolored. Though showing no indication of coil failure I decided that, given the high miles on the odometer I should replace the four coils, too. I put them in, and I put three of the old coils (not the singed one) that I took out and put them into my son's ratty 2010 fit (he bought it used on the cheap, was a salvage title/accident car with 200K miles). It too had what I presume to be the original plugs, but I am not sure, as we have no service records. Alarmingly, THREE of the plugs were loose, and there was a lot of carbon and soiling on those coils. This car was intermittently throwing engine codes and sometimes losing power. I put new O2 sensors in this car too; it was throwing a "bad catalytic converter" code, but isn't showing errors anymore. Now both purr like kittens! On my '10 Fit, I was still on the original AT fluid; I had never drained it. So I did that and changed the transmission filter. It's amazing I had no engine light warnings lit at 180K miles, with all that neglect!