I get an odd noise when I am at about 2500-3k rpm before the transmission shifts. I have never changed the Pcv valve. The tensioner and belt are pretty new. It is a 2010 with 302k miles.

I figured the Pcv is cheap and easy to swap so I plan to start there. Anyone have any thoughts?


link to video with noise.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qYFPVwKi4IXxmaL-sRv31OkesxLAIJ5W

 

That's hard to hear.. I recognized more of a "chh" sound.

If you suspect the PCV though it should be recognizable at idle. You can test the system in a couple ways. One is to pinch the hose coming out of the PCV valve while the car is idling. If there's no change in idle, the valve is gooped. Another method would be to remove either the oil fill cap or the dipstick (whichever you think would be less messy) while the car is idling/before attempting to recreate the fault by driving. Removing either one would allow for any built up pressure to escape.
You can also pull your PCV valve and clean it with whatever you want. As far as I can tell it's all metal.

If you remove or replace your valve, I would recommend replacing the crush washer (same as oil plug washer) and getting a new valve from Honda. I tried aftermarket and it snapped at about 14 ftlbs. The spec is high, like 31..

 

Thanks for the info. I appreciate it. I did order the Pcv and washer from honda. I will try the hose pinch.


^^the sound in my fit is just like this one. I don’t really get it at idle. Just right when I start the car and when the rpm get to around 2500.

Thanks again.

 

Wacky. When my valve stuck at ~105k (i hadn't been driving as much), it sounded more like.. metal rubbing/squeaks/birds.. that's just how I recall it though.
My first thought was to check oil level because of the metallic sound, and when I did there was a significant woosh of pressure and the sound stopped. My level was fine but I believe my oil was being displaced from friction areas.

If you're thinking the PCV is at fault, I'd suggest addressing it quickly. If positive pressure displaces oil you'll have increased wear, much as you would from low oil. I made another post recently showing the valve location. I'll dig it up. it's just behind the oil's dip stick, but there's a plastic wire routing bracket in the way. Hafta remove a bolt and slide it off to your right if my memory's correct.

 

Thanks for the advice. I think I have a plan in place. I found a couple videos and diagrams. I barely drive the car these days so that’s a relief. I’m likely swapping next week.

the noise started a few weeks ago. I figured it’s a cheap part and quick repair. Rather start there.

 

 

Right on. It sounds like you're all set but just in case, this thread has pics, a vid, and some commentary (including that of yours truly.)
Definitely recommend spraying it with penetrating oil or wd40 before trying to break it loose for the first time. I'd suggest giving it at least an hour to hopefully seep in.

 

Note: to inspect the PVC valve, lightly pinch the hose between PVC and intake manifold with fingers or pliers when the engine is at idle, should hear a clicking sound.

 

Appreciate the help. Y’all are awesome

 

Pcv valve did nothing. Had a shop do an inspection and they said it was an exhaust issue.

Next day at a stop light I noticed a rough idle and an intermittent battery light. When I was about 5 minutes from my place, I began to notice the exhaust was a lot louder. I was thinking a leak l.

took it to a muffler shop. They said it’s not the exhaust and it’s between the engine and the 2nd cat converter.

I am hoping it’s the Manifold catalytic converter gasket. In 2019 I replaced the cat with the California legal magnaflow.