2nd Generation (GE 08-13) 2nd Generation specific talk and questions here.

Air suspension / towing advice needed

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Old Mar 4, 2024 | 02:58 PM
  #1  
Rageyoudown's Avatar
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From: McChord AFB
Air suspension / towing advice needed

Hey everyone, I'm new to my 2012 Honda Fit Sport and trying something a bit bold by hauling a dirtbike with a mototote sport hitch carrier. Installed a class 2 hitch and noticed some flex with stock suspension, a 60lb hitch carrier, and a 240lb dirtbike—looked like the front wheels were nearly off the ground, lol. Replaced the wheels with 16x7 Rpf1 wheels, but the wheel gap is larger than I'd like.

Been researching Monroe air shocks but found many talked-about models were discontinued. Installed H&R lowering springs to reduce the wheel gap, though I know it contradicts towing they are stiffer than OEM. Used MA777 shocks, but they're super short, so had to improvise with bushings for installation. Ride's a bit bouncy and has some rear play, maybe due to the shocks being plumbed together airwise. I've yet to add a pneumatic valve cause I need the 1/8 size and originally bought 5/32. Any tips on overcoming the shortened shock length issue, or will it even be a forseeable issue?


16x7 rpf1 wheels stock height

H&R springs with MA777 air shocks rear at 10psi

@Seattlefit @manxman @seattleguy @Bassguitarist1985 could you provide advice?

 

Last edited by Rageyoudown; Mar 4, 2024 at 03:22 PM.
Old Mar 11, 2024 | 12:44 PM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by Rageyoudown
Hey everyone, I'm new to my 2012 Honda Fit Sport and trying something a bit bold by hauling a dirtbike with a mototote sport hitch carrier. Installed a class 2 hitch and noticed some flex with stock suspension, a 60lb hitch carrier, and a 240lb dirtbike—looked like the front wheels were nearly off the ground, lol. Replaced the wheels with 16x7 Rpf1 wheels, but the wheel gap is larger than I'd like.

Been researching Monroe air shocks but found many talked-about models were discontinued. Installed H&R lowering springs to reduce the wheel gap, though I know it contradicts towing they are stiffer than OEM. Used MA777 shocks, but they're super short, so had to improvise with bushings for installation. Ride's a bit bouncy and has some rear play, maybe due to the shocks being plumbed together airwise. I've yet to add a pneumatic valve cause I need the 1/8 size and originally bought 5/32. Any tips on overcoming the shortened shock length issue, or will it even be a foreseeable issue? could you provide advice?
Couple thoughts from my experience:
  • I think there's a MaxAir model with same upper and lower mounts that is longer than the 777... I went with 777s for my most recent air shocks and wish I went for the longer shock.
  • I think you're trying to keep the ride height low to minimize the gap between your rear tire and the body, yes? Seems like you're trying to balance two very different things: keeping a certain stance/look vs. making a car to carry weight. To do both is a compromise and may be difficult to find a sweet spot.
  • I believe the minimum psi for MaxAir shocks is 20 psi (reducing the chance of damage due to under-inflation), so the photo you have of shocks with 10 psi, recommend adding 10 more psi to each shock.
  • I found the 1/8" air line to work fine, however the line that comes in the MaxAir kit is poor quality and will need to be replaced with "DOT" grade air line, which I've found at pneumatic supply houses. Additionally, for each shock I have an air filler valve located in the under-side bumper cover behind each wheel, a set-up that I've found to be very simple yet effective.
  • Verify the load rating for your tires, especially as you'll be cantilevering weight out behind your bumper, which will amplify the effect on your rear tires. I've chosen to run 65 series tires since I routinely carry weight in my Fit, but if you're not carrying extra people or gear, and it's just you an your dirt bike, you might be just fine with your current tires.
Feel free to reach out with additional questions or thoughts.
 
Old Mar 11, 2024 | 01:00 PM
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Hey thanks for reaching out! Id be curious what the max air model you found was.. Do you think it would be stiffer? I find the fit to ride much smoother with the rear loaded up. My first go around/drive I noticed some clunks so I've since learned more and gave it another once over. You were right about me running 10 psi at first but I've since keep it at 20 psi minimum. Since I plan to stay with a single air filler I plan to find the proper flow air valve.. The tubing is tiny.. 1/8 like you mentioned. I've only found a suitable valve on ebay and not even the 5/32 seems to come close.

The clunking noise I heard seemed to be from the air shock being too short.. I went ahead and bought a threaded coupler with threaded rod to extend the upper. I used the round spacer from the oem shock to put below the shock threads and jam the threaded coupler. No more clunking! I do realize I'm being weird lowering and air shocks however the wheel gap it throw up worthy IMO without the lowering springs. One upside is the lowering springs are both stiffer and progressive rear. I may even add a progress rear sway bar. My wife doesn't think the ride is bad at all. Very stiff however direct without play. No rubbing issues but my wheel/tire setup is one inch smaller than stock.

Took it out yesterday loaded up.. Ran about 65-75psi and didn't notice any ride issues. Probably about 300lb on the tongue weight however my mototote sport handles it great. Class two hitch is biggest available for the fit and seems fine however there is a dread squeaking noise coming from who knows where.. It doesn't require much weight for it to occur and it squeaks without the actual hitch carrier installed. I've retightend bolts and still present.

Blah that was alot lol @seattleguy


All loaded up


 
Old Mar 11, 2024 | 04:33 PM
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Isn't class 2 hitch max tongue weight 200 lb?
 
Old Mar 11, 2024 | 04:47 PM
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Based on what I've researched it's anywhere between 200-350lbs
 
Old Mar 11, 2024 | 05:31 PM
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I'm not sure which hitch you have, but I would do regular inspections (as in, every time you do this) of the hitch mounting points under the rear end of your Fit. You can have all the suspension load capability in the world but it isn't going to mean much if your load and leverage tears the hitch mount points out of the unibody.
 
Old Mar 11, 2024 | 06:22 PM
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We can always get caught up on numbers that will put us into a paralysis however this hitch is as beefy as a class 3 and ties directly into the uni body.
 
Old Mar 11, 2024 | 07:05 PM
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I not discounting the beefiness of your hitch, or the capability of your upgraded suspension. I'm just recommending that you keep an eye on the mounting points for your beefy hitch, which were almost certainly not designed for the loads you're putting on them.

There are many posts here from folks who tow with their Fit without issue. There's a big difference between a trailer with 100-150 lbs of tongue weight applied directly to the hitch vs your 60 lb bike carrier holding 240 lbs on a lever probably two feet or more behind the hitch mounting points. So, just be cautious and keep an eye on things.
 
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