If you've got any questions, it's fresh in my admittedly intoxicated mind.
I'll add some pics of old plugs V. new. Cant speak to the change/adjustment interval -- probably around 20-30k miles BUT I was noticing some increased exhaust drone at idle, and noisier idling.
No plugs were loose, but 1&2 did not break free with a distinct beginning/release. All valves were slightly loose by my measure. This time around I pinched and lifted the rockers while feeling for drag on the feeler gauges. I did my very best to orient my angled feelers so that there was no tension on them. I have a dedicated set. For intake I use 0.007"/0.178mm and for exhaust I use: 0.011"/ 0.279mm
I go for zero slop with a gentle drag.

Light drag is so hard to interpret, even though I've done this many times. You get light drag from a bad angle, even if there's slop in the valve.

I'm still running Denso IK22 plugs -- this time around they cost me $50 from advance auto. Got a sweet $3 rebate due in 8 weeks though. Cha-chung. They looked to me to, miraculously, have zero blow-by this time. And they all seemed to be cooked pretty perfectly regarding carbon deposits. Hardly had any wear, but I really hate the idle drone.. First thing in the morning, it gives me a headache.

Whenever it shows up I typically check plugs or valves. I dont always do them at the same time. But I really havent serviced my car in a long time besides oil. 30k this time around was prolly a year and a half. At least that's what it feels like.

​​​​​​


Plug #1

Plug #2

Plug #3

Plug #4



Old #1 vs. new

That ~20ft.lbs. torque. Tend to err on the high side.

This time I'm running permatex ultra black silicone. Re-using old gaskets -- scrubbing off old silicone (already did it). It's annoying. Instead of waiting just a handful of minutes pre-torque, they want me to wait an hour. Whatever, trying to be good and listen. I only double-checked valves on cyl 1 because I didn't lift the rockers for that one. Besides that, I checked each valve a dozen times on the first go and eyed level for the cam sprocket marks as best as could.

Still dont feel certain as to whether its supposed to be level as in level, or level with the top of the cylinder head as a reference point, which itself is slanted. I went with the ladder, like always.

Oh, I snapped my hollow ground slotted #2 driver adjusting valves. Luckily the piece landed outside of the valve assembly/engine. Then had to grind down another slotted driver with my angle grinder to make it thick enough to avoid stripping out the studs when adjusting.


I used my fiance's stubby driver for clearance purposes (did ask first). Not perfect, but better than a thin bit that comes in a set or on a regular slotted driver. Gunsmithing drivers are where its at for auto work.

I'm actually looking to check out some from Brownell's online. Plain jane looking resin handles, but the wood handled ones are the ones that I keep breaking. Think "Grace USA" from amazon. Started a commune to sell me nice-fitting screwdrivers that snap off mid job. It's one way to live I guess.

That's about all I got for now. Gonna button her up.
In closing, every professional is just some asshole, myself included. They may have more experience, but nobody cares more about your car than you. Valves are a scary job on the first go/ if you tend to break fasteners, but it's not unlike anything else. Don't be intimidated! Go by the book, and be mentally prepared to do the whole thing over if it doesnt work out. Also, have spare blue clippies for the cowl.

 

Interesting write up. Wondering if you put dielectric grease on your coils? I've never messed with my valves. When I bought mine I asked them and paid extra for them to do it at the dealer.
Usually do all my own work, but didn't want to mess up my new (used 09) car. At first I was inclined to believe they did nothing, now I believe they did do it. My engine got so quiet after I changed the plugs, coils, belt and sea foamed the engine.
Now years later my car is getting 34.5mpg going to work and it seems to be running great. All our gen 2's are getting old now. Even the 2013's are 11 years old! I for one don't want to buy another car just yet. Got to keep them running good!

 

I did use dielectric grease/silicone paste. I believe my tube is by Permatex, but I've read good things about a pricy one from 3m referred to as a release compound for electrical connections. My biggest issue isn't quality (to my knowledge), but rather, packaging. Those darned tubes, whether for silicone, this, or whatever. I always over-tighten and split the cap! Fortunately, silicone paste isn't moisture sensitive and supposedly doesn't draw dirt (or is that white lithium? that stuff sucks) so it holds up even in a tube with a split cap.

I recently became aware of an electrician's product called Noalox by Ideal. It's an anti-oxidant compound that I've personally used for military heavy equipment on battery terminals. It didn't have a name, coming on pre-soaked felt rings, but I remember the look! Like graphite powder in bacon grease.
I found use for such a product recently while wiring up a new electric induction cooktop powered by 8 gauge wire. Couldn't fit wire nuts in the junction box, so I went with readily available aluminum lug reducer connectors. They called for noalox to address the mating of dissimilar metals to the end of preventing galvanic corrosion or some such thing.

Dielectric grease is an old staple in automotive. I guess its real purpose is to prevent binding/fusing of conductors. To that end I'll be looking into using an anti-oxidant compound just out of curiosity. The latter is the stuff you want for battery terminals. Not dielectric grease. And it's not sold at auto shops to my knowledge. Weird, eh? Maybe I'm losing my mind.

Forgot to put the grease on the plugs, so I put a little on my finger and rubbed it into the hole of each ignition coil, where it affixes to the plug.


EDIT: hot damn that was a long ramble. Can tell I don't get out much.
Anyways, yeah, the fits are aging for sure. I'm still pleased with them though -- besides letting my PCV valve (I think it was) clog once, it's never leaked a drop of oil. only 115k miles though.
Plugs and valves are like magic for this little engine, or mine at least. Either I messed something up, or it's one of those two fellows. Annual air and cabin air filters, being here in the south. One clutch (my fault), and fluid maintenance... Oh, suspension came up! But I think that's it. Window motor and regulator assemblies if you want to be fancy and get rid of window vibration when partially opened.
It's been pretty boring to maintain!

 

Here's a link to an article or forum post (I can't tell) that discusses use of both greases extensively, with a unique historical backdrop. Not in line with my earlier assumptions.
If you feel like nerding out, it might appeal to you.

 

Good thread. Thanks.

 

Thanks, MC

Doing reassembly presently and cleaning everything as I go.





My whole kit 😂 It's as much work as I'm willing to tolerate ~ spray, brush (recommend a flag-tipped brush) and hose off.




The hardest part for a first timer. Only 2 out of 9 clips survived, which is average for the plastic cowl.

The whole procedure is as follows:
Remove hood hinge covers (they have impossible white clips)
Remove wiper arms (14mm)
Raise hood
Remove upper plastic cowl (9 blue clips, 2 black)
OPTIONAL: Remove wiper motor (10mm and 6+" extension)
remove metal cowl (10mm)
Disconnect maf
Remove airbox (10mm with 6+" extension, pref. longer, 1 vacuum line)
Unbolt throttle body and move aside (12mm, no loss of coolant!!)
Unbolt intake manifold to plenum/plastic chamber (12mm)
Unbolt intake plenum mounting bolts (one 12mm, two 8 or 10mm, 1 vacuum line)
Remove intake plenum
Stuff rags in the intake manifold holes
Remove ignition coils and set aside (8mm)
Unclip wire loom for ignition coils and slide off to your right
Remove valve cover (10mm, 3" extension or deepwell socket preferable)

Valve adjustment is easier with a 10mm offset box wrench and a hollow ground/gunsmithing #2 slotted screwdriver.

Tips: Have a "telescoping" magnetic pickup tool, and consider purchasing a set of metric nut grabber sockets which include a ball detent to hold onto fasteners. Helps reduce dropping of things. razor blade and 3m burgundy scuff pads lubed with wd40 to remove old silicone, rubbing alcohol to degrease before applying new silicone.

 

That's a really nice looking clean engine! I also have been using Permatex. The tube is like 4 years old, so I'll look into those other better ones you mentioned.

 

@Pyts A box-end wrench and a screwdriver are fine for adjusting the valves, but I use something like . (I think this is the one that I have.) I think it makes the job a little easier.

 

I keep forgetting that those exist! Much easier, I'm sure. My first thought was "You can't torque with that", but you couldnt with my set-up either. Need a 10mm crowfoot and appropriate torque wrench, but honestly, flex in crowfoots leaves me less than confident in the torque accuracy. The torque is only 10 ftlbs. anyways, so I think firm should do.

 

I do not use a torque wrench. If I did, I would buy the torque wrench from Snap-on and I would have it checked for accuracy twice a year. Instead of doing that, I decided to have a life.

You are probably smarter than I am. I'm just a driveway mechanic.

 

I've never been smart, friend. I'm killing myself trying to be that and optimistic. I'm sure your way is good.

 

I've removed the cowl 3 times now. I expected to lose clips and even bought a bag of replacements. But, so far, no clips have broken.

 

I don't think I've broken any either.

However, I did break one on those little end pieces.

 

Mine seem to cinch down real tight. I'm using the OEM body panel tools recommended for the job, but yeah, they bust every time. I'm glad to hear it's not a pain for others. The cowl really gave me trouble the first time

 

The boots need to be maintained too. Put dielectric on the spring and little resister in the boot. You may be surprised how corroded the boots are because you must remove them to see. Best of luck, Clay

 

delete repeat

 

That's called a calibrated elbow.

 

Back in CA I had my Mexican mechanic friends. "I go 'til my wrist clicks"
Man I miss that culture.

 

I'm in California. My knee clicks. Will that work?