Developed a hairline crack in the oil pan. Worked some JB weld into the crack. This stopped the leaks and it's held for a few months now. But I want to fix it right.
Got a new oil pan, trying to remove the old oil pan.
Verified that everything has been disconnected, verified that all pan bolts have been removed.
I cannot separate the pan from the engine block. Looks like some type of RTV or gasket material is there and it's holding TIGHT. What's the trick? Doesn't seem to be anywhere to pry either.

 

Finally got the pan separated from the block, but the pan won't drop. Looks like this shift lever linkage is getting in the way. The shop manual nor any youtube videos seem to mention this. Any workaround?

Am I supposed to remove the big main serpetine belt pulley as well?

 

The transmission shift linkage bracket needed to be removed to gain more clearance. Kind of important. Would have been nice if Honda included that in the shop manual.

Anyway, now the pan is dropped and we've moved over the dip stick, sensor, two press-fit guide "tubes" to the new oil pan.

The new oil pan of course doesn't include the filter nipple. Trying to move that over now, will see if we can use the two nuts method, if we can find M20-1.5 nuts anywhere.

 

We could not find the M20-1.5 nuts anywhere local. A bag of M20-1.5 jam nuts is on order from Amazon, about $10. Jam nuts are about half the height of normal nuts are designed to stack and lock for applications like this when there is nowhere to grab without damaging threads.

Update: I was able to remove the filter stud with the small 3/8" "inside pipe wrench" plumbing tool shown below. The tool alone is just a bit too small to engage inside the filter stud. I took some bits of brass from an old feeler gauge and used that to close the gap. It was just enough to allow the tool to bite into the inside surface of the stud and back it out.