Just picked up a 2012 MT last week. I was aware the clutch was toast as it was slipping even with light acceleration.

Took it to the local Honda dealer today. Service confirmed and said the entire clutch needed to be replaced.

Cost? $4500. Sounds like a total cash grab.

Anyone in central NJ had any good experience local shops with clutch/transmission where I can get a down-to-earth price? A shop pointed me to Lee Myles. Have never heard of them but found out they have franchises in the NE area.

TIA.

 

$4500 is outrageous.

 

Do you have any DIY friends? Changing a clutch isn't all that hard, especially if you have a buddy with a spacious heated garage, tools, and a cherry-picker. There are many Youtube tutorials if you want to see what the job entails.

For $4500 you could buy your own two-post lift, all the parts and tools you'll need, a copy of one (or more) Honda Fit service manuals (got to get those bolts torqued correctly), plus enough pizza and drinks to convince any number of friends to help you do the work. If you're a savvy shopper and/or enjoy cheap pizza, you could even keep a good amount of cash in your pocket.

That would be ideal, because assuming typical mileage for a 10+ year old car there are other "preventative maintenance" jobs you might want to do while replacing the clutch (e.g., throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, rear main seal...).

Alternatively, shop around for estimates from independent mechanics. I suspect you can get the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, associated bearings, and rear main seal done for way less than the dealer-quoted price, especially if you find/buy the parts yourself.

 

What the dealer said was it’s a laborious job where they would need to “drop the engine”, with estimated time being 12 hours. They also mentioned about a rusted area by the catalytic converter that needed to be patched up along with water pump replacement. Total, $8500.

the parts must be made of gold.

 

And no, no DIY friends, at least not for cars.

 

Heck, I'll be your best friend for $8500.

It would be worth your time to look up the cost of parts for yourself. If the dealership has given you an estimate, they should be able to give you an expected parts list.

Parts aren't cheap (i.e., the parts in a 10-year-old car are often worth way more than the car as a whole), but they're also not multiple thousands of dollars.

As I mentioned above, I would get a second opinion from an independent mechanic before doing anything.

As you may be realizing, your situation illustrates the value of getting an inspection before buying a used car if you're unable to assess the mechanical condition of the car yourself.

 

That quote is ass. 1200 should do it. 8 hours at $100 an hour + parts and fluids. I might ask for 1500 to address potential headaches.
the engine doesnt need to come out -- it can be suspended in the bay with a $120 engine support brace from amazon.
the transmission will drop out of the bottom and onto your legs. the trickiest part is getting the car raised high enough on stands to slide the transmission out through a wheel well.

The job is a little sketchy on jack stands. its hard to get at all the bell housing to engine bolts.

if you go the DIY route, I'd plan for at least a full 3 day weekend if it's a new-to-you job.
I can't recall if coolant had to be drained.. but it's all relatively straight forward. you'd need some specialty tools to manage the work yourself, like a blind hole bearing puller (could improvise) and one of those honda compatible flywheel holders to keep it from spinning while you break bolts loose/torque.

Order the exedy clutch and exedy or luk flywheel from rockauto, and get a throw-out bearing made by either timken or NTN (original manufacturer and seemingly, the tip top bearing maker, likely due to patents)
I'm sure you can find a shop that would do the work for 2k at most.

 

This is the post we all needed.

 

A follow up: Lee Myles quoted me $1300 for a Luk clutch assembly so will drop off on Monday morning. Hoping for good news by Wednesday.

thanks for all the info. My DIY limitation is at anything that will involve heavy lifting or unbolting the engine. Brakes, spark plugs, and fluid change I can handle. This clutch job is something I would always rather pay someone to work on.

 

Now that's a fair quote!
it's a bit if a pain -- comparable to crawling around in an attic to run duct. I'm glad you found an honest guy. For the dealership, their clutch assembly costs like 1,000 by itself. In my opinion, it's overkill for the little motor anyways. Double sprung, and just.. super grippy.
I like the exedy clutch better. Its more easy going.

 

Don't forget to replace throw out bearing while in there.

 

Just wanted to give a follow up on the thread. Picked up the car on Tuesday. Car is shifting like new although the clutch engagement point is a bit lower than I am used to/wanted. Is this adjustable?

 

It is, down at/behind the pedal. Personally, I don't like all the knee movement. I have my clutch pedal adjusted all the way down It's like pushing the gas or brake. You can certainly go the other way though, if you so choose. Just some nuts down there, or a nut. I also sit rather upright and close despite being just shy of 6', and I think most dudes... don't do that.