I'm finally replacing the clutch on my 2010 Fit (180,000 mi) and I think I can handle it, but it's my first. I don't know what I should check on while down there.

My tie rod end boots are torn so I'm planning to replace those. Some of the bushings seem worn, so maybe replace those too?

Anything else recommended while I've got the front end broken down?

 

Throw out beering

 

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@Squincher I often think about this. The way I would frame the question is:

Give me a list of every single part that I can replace during a clutch replacement. That includes every clutch part, and every part that would be easy to reach when the transmission is out.

 

Rear main seal maybe?

 

I'm getting a kit that Includes throw out bearing, pilot bearing, clutch, pressure plate. Maybe I'll get a new flywheel too? Resurfacing seems like a bear and would make it a multi-day project at best

 

Is that the transmission seal or the engine seal?

 

Every part that wears out. I'm hoping to get this thing to 400,000 miles. Is there some sticky that has all the recommended maintenance for each milestone? The sources I'm finding all suck.

 

Lol! BEERing!!!

 

That's what I'm talking about. I need a list. Every clutch part, every seal and gasket, everything that should be replaced when the transmission out.

 

Must-Replace Core Clutch Parts (Usually Included in Any Clutch Kit)

• Clutch disc (friction plate)
• Pressure plate (clutch cover assembly)
• Release/throw-out bearing

Strongly Recommended / Common "While You're In There" Replacements

• Flywheel — Resurface if in good condition (minimal scoring/warpage); replace if damaged (common to go with a new or lightweight one)
• Pilot bearing (or pilot bushing — in the crankshaft end; often included in better kits)
• Rear main crankshaft oil seal (very common leak point once exposed; replace proactively)
• Clutch release fork (the arm/paddle that moves the throw-out bearing)
• Clutch fork pivot ball/stud (the pivot point the fork attaches to)
• Clutch fork spring/retainer clip (secures the fork to the pivot)
• Release fork dust boot (protective rubber boot/gaiter)

Hydraulic System Parts (Easy Access with Trans Out)

• Clutch slave cylinder (bolted to the transmission bellhousing; replace if leaking or pedal feel is poor)
• Clutch hydraulic fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4 — flush and refill the entire system)

Optional / Frequently Done at the Same Time

• Flywheel bolts (torque-to-yield; many replace rather than reuse)
• Clutch master cylinder (on the firewall; not strictly "trans-out" access, but often paired with slave replacement for a full refresh)
  • Throw in a SEBS Garage kit?
• Clutch hydraulic line/hose (from master to slave; replace if cracked/brittle)
  • Believe the Sebs kit comes with this hose

 

@cbuck77 Well done, sir.