gives me a chance to up my post count and reply the exact same way every time.

 

i change my own oil when it starts getting brown. which is at about 4k.

 

was it really necessary to use 3 post to say that?

 

yes. thank you very much.

 

Better not ask. It just gives him another chance to post needlessly.

Keeping on topic. I'll change my oil in the spring. Should have about 4000 Kms by then and want to get rid of wintertime oil. Drastic temperature changes during winter add contaminants to the oil.

 

despite the shameless post count uppage, i appreciate the quality info from freak, "mahout." good stuff!

i think i'll change my oil very soon. i'm at 3,400 mi now. and, i think i'll do it with mobil 1 since we're in the midst of winter.

 

official from honda

 

okay, okay, thanks. good find. but, i've had hondas / acuras with 250k+ miles that i'm sure their previous owners didn't put this/that much thought into the first oil change. is this what will get me and my fit to 350k+?

dayum, do i let the computer run my car's life or my brain??

how much would i have saved off sticker to not have included the fuggin computer that tells me when to change my oil vs changin it myself at 4-5k miles every time?

 

Consider that Marketing wrote that tidbit. Wondwer why it isn't in the Fit shop manual?

 

I know it says to leave it for the first 10k miles... but it just doesn't make logical sense.

What oil holds up that long? I don't think they put sythetic in to start with. Further, even synthetic should be changed due to contaminents before hitting the 10k mark.

 

It is synthetic to start with. The problem with 10K miles is the capacity of the oil filter to hold enough contaminants filtered from the oil for that period. CR did a study some years ago that showed few oil filters could hold enough contaminants to last much beyond 5000 miles for a good synthetic oil. Mobil 1 has several technical reports clearly showing their oil lubricates well with minimum wear for 25,000 miles.
The latest Castrol ads touting 4x less wear than Mobil 1 is interesting.. We may try that and get some dyno and metal content in the drained oil. (metallic content is a good indication of wear).

 

To your heart's content.


Bob Is The Oil Guy

 

most oils these days and especially synthetic oils, the oil wont break down as quickly as in the past, but they still get dirty

 

All of the stuff posted is commonly available and his sponsors are all additive 'sellers'.
Oil companies spend a great deal of money evaluating thousands of additivces and use the ones that work best.
Bob needs to list his credentials; most of the tests he shows were run years ago and discarded in favor of much better shear testing and wear testring devices. Viscosity testing hasn't changed much.
One of the chief advantages of synthetics is the ability to be thinned out longer and still offer lubrication. Its called shear strength and is measured by increasing the contact pressure between two wheels or gears at increasing rpm. Synthetics outperform petroleum based oils every time.
And dynomometer testing the same engine with conventional petrroleum oils vs synthetics have consistently shown imporoved HP for sythetics.
On average about 3%. And that's significant.

 

Well, my question should have been qualified. Just wanted to know if any Honda Techs etc. actually knew if and what the alleged "secret ingredient" is in the Honda motor oil. Don't believe there is any such thing. Just a service writer that couldn't answer my question. I do have a somewhat good working knowledge of motor oil chemistry. Too many schools and seminars on the subject. Most of it was repetitious, but I was paid to attend.
Years ago there was an animal called "break in oil". With the advances in metallurgy, engine design, and oil chemistry that creature no longer exists. Many argue the pros and cons of additives such MoS2 (molybdenum disulfide. It can be found in some motor oils such as Royal Purple and Torco. Amsoil does not use it because it tends to separate out of solution and in the abscense of oil/lubricant it is abrasive. Like when you park your car for extended periods. This is supported by Blackstone Labs for one. Then there is the arguement of a "true synthetic" oil. Mobil 1 was originally a polyalphaolefin based oil. Then Castrol introduced it's "Syntec" which is a designer molecule made by cooking the crap out of conventional (mineral) oil and calling it synthetic. Mobil sued and lost. Mobil is now made the same way. Amsoil and some others use the polyalphaolefin stuff claiming that it is superior. It is at least more expensive. Poly-alpha-olefins do not crystallize or solidify easily and are able to remain oily, viscous liquids even at lower temperatures. Low molecular weight poly-alpha-olefins are useful as synthetic lubricants such as synthetic motor oils for vehicles used in a wide temperature range.
There is some other good info on here from those who replied, i.e. filter life etc. Most of the metal wear particles occur in the first 3-5K miles. I prefer to dump the initial oil within that time frame. It's all personal choice that should be tempered by a bit of research. And remember most, (not all) service writers are basically clerks doing what the boss tells them. So I just thought I'd ask....

 

I am sorry, completely off subject but are we talking silver surfer with the fantastic 4 maybe? Or comic book silver surfer when he helped spiderman fight carnage? Sorry total comic book nerd here

 

@Katzechicx

While I don't agree at all about what Honda says about leaving oil in till 5000 plus miles, I know they don't want it in there foe 10,000 miles. CHANGE YOUR OIL NOW!

I built race motors when I was younger and always dumped the first oil at 300 miles. Even with a WIX filter you could see a sparkle or metallic look to the oil. Granted they use finer "cross hatching" stone now. A new motor is a new motor and it will be knocking off and wearing metal for the first 3000 miles. I dumped my oil at 300- 500 and put in a high quality high moly oil.

http://www.schaefferoil.com/motor_oils.html

I follow the other oil forum boards regularly and it seems Honda/Acura is the only manufacture that uses break-in oil. You have very large quantities of 2-10 micron metal particals in that first and second oil change that the filter will not filter that need to get out of there. Not resurculated for 5000+ miles. Dump your oil and put back in a high moly. It is just plain logical.

 

Maybe that's why most their engines lasted so long?

I don't know if Acura still does it? I remembered at least one model came from the factory with Mobil One.

 

Maybe do a "filter only" change every once in a while?
The initial factory oil usually comes with an additive to help break in the motor, and seat all the rings, seals and all that good stuff. However, I would have thought they would do that during production itself and then swap out that oil for normal oil when it's time to ship em' out. AND I don't see why it needs 10k to break it in. Honda does know how to make a motor last forever though...

 

The so called break-in oil has extra moly in it. Nothing really special. You can dump your oil early and replace it with an oil that has extra moly in it from the start , like Schaeffer's.