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Oil change without ramps?

  #21  
Old 11-18-2009, 02:43 PM
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i donno, i suppose if you look down into the engine bay you can see the honda filter... if you have a long enough arm you might be able to reach the filter from the top. hahaha dont burn yourself! hahahaha

(just get the car on ramps and chock the rear tire).
 
  #22  
Old 11-19-2009, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by kenchan
fumoto valve?
yep that's the one,,,,any bad reports on them you know of????
 
  #23  
Old 11-19-2009, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by grouser
yep that's the one,,,,any bad reports on them you know of????
They're great. You just hold a jug up to the drain and flip the lever. I've had Fumotos on a couple of cars. No problems.
 
  #24  
Old 11-21-2009, 04:13 AM
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I use ramps with a chock on the rear tire. I have a 09 sport and ramps are low enough not to hit the bumper as your roll the car forward. I also have the fumoto vlave with nipple.

I have a extractor in garage that never gets used anymore, the fumoto is much easier, I even have a real nice extractor, the self contained kind.
 
  #25  
Old 11-23-2009, 09:36 PM
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After doing my oil this weekend I noticed it probably wouldn't be so easy to get the filter from up top. It's real easy from underneath though. You'll need a decent sized pan because the oil from the filter kind of migrates to different areas before it drips down.

Ramps are easy. You can get some Rhino ramps cheap at wallmart or a parts store. Mine have worked great. You just have to make sure the rubber feet stay in there and they're sitting flat.

 
  #26  
Old 01-23-2010, 02:58 PM
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when it's on ramps, does ALL the oil drain out? or is there gonna be some pooling up in the oil pan somewhere because of the tilt of the car from the front being on the ramps?
 
  #27  
Old 01-23-2010, 03:28 PM
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Half a quart of used oil remains in the block even when changing the filter. I don't think raising the front on ramps will change this much. Might even help.
 
  #28  
Old 01-23-2010, 03:44 PM
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I did and oil change recently. Put the car up on stands. Was a bit of a pain, because I couldn't find a good place to jack up the car from front centre. Once I had the car up on stands, I checked around for a decent place and it looks like there is a cross brace just below the radiator (covered with plastic). Is this cross brace strong enough for a hydraulic jack? I can then put jack stands under the recommended jack points behind each wheel.
 
  #29  
Old 01-23-2010, 03:51 PM
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I wouldn't recommend it. Best bet is to use the pinch welds behind each wheel to jack it.
 
  #30  
Old 01-23-2010, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by mrmatte
when it's on ramps, does ALL the oil drain out? or is there gonna be some pooling up in the oil pan somewhere because of the tilt of the car from the front being on the ramps?

Since the oil drain is at the rear of the oil pan when the front wheels are raised the oil drains faster and more completely. Specially whe hot.
we have on occasion compared the amount of oil drained compared to the amount we filled originally and that is virtually equal. Though the engine isn't completely drained I 'm not ready to say half a quart remains based on tear downs. Perhaps a quater of a quart, but no doubt its not completely drained. I thought we might have a record of first oil change volume AFTER engine rebuild, which would identify just how complete the oil drain was but unfortunately I could not find one. Interesting thought though.

PS the residual oil won't affect your Fits lubrication in any way. Just make sure you don't overfill (1/4 qt under full is best for hp and mpg according to dyno but that should shorten your oil change interval.)
regardless of those who think its some kind of intelligence to extend oil change intervals as far as possible its a useless game. Your engine depends on good lubrication and overdoing it just isn't intelligent. If you're that hard up for cash, ride a bicycle.)
 

Last edited by mahout; 01-23-2010 at 04:33 PM.
  #31  
Old 01-23-2010, 04:37 PM
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Oil capacity (base on Honda Owner's Manual)
3.6 L including filter
3.4 L without filter
4.4 L total
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These are items you need to change your oil.
1. Rhino ramp
2. Oil pan
3. Oil (I use Royal Purple 5W-20 Synthetic Oil)
4. New oil filter with drain plug crush washer
5. 19MM wrench (I use 19mm sockets)
6. Oil filter wrench

These are some pictures.
1. Rhino ramp. I have 09 Honda FIT Sport. There is an inch between bumper and the ramp.
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2. On the ramp.
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3. Oil plug location.
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4. Oil filter location.
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5. Drain the oil.
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6. Remove filter
7. Put new oil filter. I ususally pour oil into the filter (around 1/2)
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8. Reset Service Minder
 
  #32  
Old 01-23-2010, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by mugen666
I did and oil change recently. Put the car up on stands. Was a bit of a pain, because I couldn't find a good place to jack up the car from front centre. Once I had the car up on stands, I checked around for a decent place and it looks like there is a cross brace just below the radiator (covered with plastic). Is this cross brace strong enough for a hydraulic jack? I can then put jack stands under the recommended jack points behind each wheel.

Unless ramps are anchored they are a pain to use.
we prefer when a lift isnt available to use two $30 jacks,one on each side of the car at the manufacturer's designated lift pints on each side at the front. Two jacks also nice when changing tires so you can do one side at a time.
IF HOWEVER YOU ARE GOING UNDER THE CAR ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ADD A FIXED HEIGHT SUPPORT UNDER YOUR CAR. Should anyway.
A number of people have been killed very unpleasatnly by cars lowering on them. One near here apparently called for help for some time, without success, before dying. It doesn't appear to be a good way to die.
 

Last edited by mahout; 01-23-2010 at 04:43 PM.
  #33  
Old 01-23-2010, 05:02 PM
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[quote=FITMugen;803767]Oil capacity (base on Honda Owner's Manual)
3.6 L including filter
3.4 L without filter
4.4 L total


Couldn't find that 4.4 liters in my manuals. And after rebuilds we only add 4 quarts (3.78 liters) and were pretty close to the full mark after idling for a while. Thats why my guess is a quarter of a quart. Don't know why it should be 0.8 liter, about a quart.
Note to new oil changers: always make sure there's at least enough oil on the dipstick (near full) BEFORE you restart the engine and always fast idle for a few minutes before checking the oil level for running condition. Expect to find oil a little higher before starting the engine than after if for no other reason than the filter is filled. It will go down slightly as the engine distributes the oil.
 
  #34  
Old 01-23-2010, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by mahout
Since the oil drain is at the rear of the oil pan when the front wheels are raised the oil drains faster and more completely. Specially whe hot.
makes sense. thanks
 
  #35  
Old 01-23-2010, 07:12 PM
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[quote=mahout;803777]
Originally Posted by FITMugen
Oil capacity (base on Honda Owner's Manual)
3.6 L including filter
3.4 L without filter
4.4 L total


Couldn't find that 4.4 liters in my manuals. And after rebuilds we only add 4 quarts (3.78 liters) and were pretty close to the full mark after idling for a while. Thats why my guess is a quarter of a quart. Don't know why it should be 0.8 liter, about a quart.
Note to new oil changers: always make sure there's at least enough oil on the dipstick (near full) BEFORE you restart the engine and always fast idle for a few minutes before checking the oil level for running condition. Expect to find oil a little higher before starting the engine than after if for no other reason than the filter is filled. It will go down slightly as the engine distributes the oil.
This is where I got it from.

Name:  OILCAPACITY.jpg
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  #36  
Old 01-23-2010, 07:37 PM
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Full ramps are best, but a couple of 2x4's screwed together gives plenty of room. I know the manual says 4.4 qts, but I can just get slightly over 4 in mine after a full oil and filter change. The filter from below is a snap. Not like my older Hondas, between the block and firewall, hidden between hoses and wires. (Guaranteed to leak oil all over you!)
 
  #37  
Old 01-23-2010, 09:42 PM
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My integras and prelude had the filter right above one of the exhaust pipes behind the block so besides being a pain in the neck to change, naturally, you'd end up with some oil dripping onto the exhaust pipe and then smelling it for a few days afterwords. Fortunately, my GS-R came with every other oil change free from the dealer so until I moved out of NJ, all oil was changed there. After that, I did a few of my own with Mobil1 but now, I'm back to the dealer for most. The few I did on the GS-R I used old ramps. Unfortunately, the ramps were steep but fortunately, they were for a '77 Delta88 royale and could hold up anything. the side edge of my driveway has about a 6" drop in height so I put the ramps there and drove the integra "up" on them. oil changes were easier that way.

~SB
 
  #38  
Old 01-23-2010, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by citabria7
Full ramps are best, but a couple of 2x4's screwed together gives plenty of room. I know the manual says 4.4 qts, but I can just get slightly over 4 in mine after a full oil and filter change. The filter from below is a snap. Not like my older Hondas, between the block and firewall, hidden between hoses and wires. (Guaranteed to leak oil all over you!)
... and probably burn your wrist when removing, too, huh? that's always fun.
 
  #39  
Old 01-23-2010, 10:57 PM
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This looks like a pretty easy car to change the oil on. Thanks for the pics with the Rhino ramps. I use them and was afraid Fit sat too low to use. First oil change is a freebie at the dealer but I will do all oil changes after.

Bought car for my wife but I end up driving it more than her



BG
 
  #40  
Old 01-23-2010, 11:09 PM
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If you're a tiny person you don't need any ramps. And if you use nitrile/latex gloves your hands don't get dirty.
 

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