Grounding improvement for the Fit
Grounding improvement for the Fit
Last edited by Roger's Fit; May 25, 2010 at 04:04 PM. Reason: Fix L
I already replied on your other thread...but thanks...this is cheap and easy.
I am looking forward to doing it.
Let me ask you this...was the part in the lawn and garden section (where the parts for the weed eaters and such are) or in the automotive section? Or somewhere else?
I am looking forward to doing it.
Let me ask you this...was the part in the lawn and garden section (where the parts for the weed eaters and such are) or in the automotive section? Or somewhere else?
Every car these days seems to need a grounding mod. I'm not electrician, but why would there be 1 ohm of resistance in there? Surely these companies know there efforts to keep costs and weight down have created this condition. Maybe it isn't a critical part of the system? I would think that it is. I'm not sure I've ever seen a car not make more power, or smoother power and better idle with a grounding mod. What's up Honda?
I just measured a .6 ohm resistance from the negative battery terminal to the alternator. I never realized that there's only a single ground stock that goes to the battery, it looks like 10 gauge wire. I'd love to see more efficient battery charging from the alternator (my short commute kills my Deka battery in about 2 weeks). Maybe an upgrade here will help . . .
I just measured a .6 ohm resistance from the negative battery terminal to the alternator. I never realized that there's only a single ground stock that goes to the battery, it looks like 10 gauge wire. I'd love to see more efficient battery charging from the alternator (my short commute kills my Deka battery in about 2 weeks). Maybe an upgrade here will help . . .
When i was young, I thought that grounds were unimportant. But, they are just as important as the supply wire, or the positive in this case.
You could measure this with an induction annmeter if desired.
Cool, I'm now down to zero ohms resistance as well. My local Wal-mart didn't stock any cables like you found, but Autozone had a decent selection of battery cabling that worked well. Found a 19" cable like you used for $6.50, and while I was at it upgraded the stock negative battery cable with a 4ga. one.
Anyway, I'll post pics as soon as I can find the cable for my camera.
Anyway, I'll post pics as soon as I can find the cable for my camera.
RF, you rock, man!
You keep coming up with those cool and resourceful mods and fixes... I'll keep reading and implementing them! We can do this sorta' thing all day if you like! 
Question... do you think any of the electrical grounding kits such as HKS' Circle Earth Kit or others, are any good, or would be any better than this grounding fix? I'm curious as to whether they would provide an even better ground... albeit they're a A LOT more expensive than yours.
The link:
Project Honda Fit Exhaust Parts Shot Photo (I have no clue as to why the link states an exhaust part... that's goofy)
Some of the peeps from tuner mags seem to almost swear by these things. Some have even claimed an actual increase in hp from "perfected" grounding.
You seem to be the creative auto fix-it man! Just curious about your opinion on the matter. I guess your post (the grounding fix) proves there's at least some need for items such as these. If it's worth the cost, well, I suppose that's an entirely different matter.
Thanks again for the latest fix.
Oh and, BTW... do you think the rear fender applique is worth the money Honda wants for it? I notice you have one installed on your Fit. A couple of people here said they appear to be complete, or near complete, crap. I was going to get one for my Fit until a forum guy said he thought it was cheaply made. Of course, that was only his opinion... no right or wrong here I suppose.
Thanks
You keep coming up with those cool and resourceful mods and fixes... I'll keep reading and implementing them! We can do this sorta' thing all day if you like! 
Question... do you think any of the electrical grounding kits such as HKS' Circle Earth Kit or others, are any good, or would be any better than this grounding fix? I'm curious as to whether they would provide an even better ground... albeit they're a A LOT more expensive than yours.
The link:
Project Honda Fit Exhaust Parts Shot Photo (I have no clue as to why the link states an exhaust part... that's goofy)
Some of the peeps from tuner mags seem to almost swear by these things. Some have even claimed an actual increase in hp from "perfected" grounding.
You seem to be the creative auto fix-it man! Just curious about your opinion on the matter. I guess your post (the grounding fix) proves there's at least some need for items such as these. If it's worth the cost, well, I suppose that's an entirely different matter.
Thanks again for the latest fix.
Oh and, BTW... do you think the rear fender applique is worth the money Honda wants for it? I notice you have one installed on your Fit. A couple of people here said they appear to be complete, or near complete, crap. I was going to get one for my Fit until a forum guy said he thought it was cheaply made. Of course, that was only his opinion... no right or wrong here I suppose.
Thanks
Last edited by annunC8; May 24, 2010 at 09:48 AM.
I did some checks and decided to improve the ground from the battery.
Click here to see what I found and how I fixed it on the cheap.
Click here to see what I found and how I fixed it on the cheap.
The first day I owned the Fit, I looked at that wimpy ground cable to the radiator support and said to myself, "WTF!!!!"
Every other car I've owned or worked on had a ground directly to the alternator/engine and a secondary ground to the body. I am so doing this mod! In fact, I may do this to the Harley-Davidson. It might not cure the intermittant starting trouble, but "it coudn't hurt".
Plus rep for this one.
Every other car I've owned or worked on had a ground directly to the alternator/engine and a secondary ground to the body. I am so doing this mod! In fact, I may do this to the Harley-Davidson. It might not cure the intermittant starting trouble, but "it coudn't hurt".Plus rep for this one.
As it's been said, look at Rodgers link for it in his signature.
Does this mean unhooking the ground and redoing all the radio stuff because of it? Do you need to know your radio code too?
Btw- does this in fact wipe out the shocks you get when exiting the car? It's never been mentioned if this helps that.
Dan
Does this mean unhooking the ground and redoing all the radio stuff because of it? Do you need to know your radio code too?
Btw- does this in fact wipe out the shocks you get when exiting the car? It's never been mentioned if this helps that.
Dan
Last edited by Shockwave199; May 24, 2010 at 09:32 PM.
Btw- does this in fact wipe out the shocks you get when exiting the car? It's never been mentioned if this helps that.
Nice write up! The battery to chassis wire is the least important of the big 3. 99% of the time you are driving your car the power is coming from the alternator, not the battery. In fact, the battery is a load upon the alternator.
Also, you are trying to improve the power supply to your accesories but you have not improved the resistance between the chassis and your battery OR alternator. Yet, all of your accesories are grounded to the chassis, not the engine block.
As for performance, which someone mentioned, you will see no improvement as the spark plugs are grounded directly to the engine block which is grounded directly to the alternator, you cannot possibly improve the grounding on them as the plugs are only powered by the battery durring startup and power usage surges.
For some bizzare reason I also have the idea in my head that you should never ground your battery to your engine block directly. I forgot why already (read it somewhere :/ ) !? Anyway, the more traditional route is to upgrade the Grounding Strap AND Battery to Chassis negative wire AND Alternator to Battery positive wire. All very cheap and easy to do.
I can verify, upgrading the grounding strap alone makes a huge difference with headlight dimming when you are pushing above 1000 watts rms.
Also, you are trying to improve the power supply to your accesories but you have not improved the resistance between the chassis and your battery OR alternator. Yet, all of your accesories are grounded to the chassis, not the engine block.
As for performance, which someone mentioned, you will see no improvement as the spark plugs are grounded directly to the engine block which is grounded directly to the alternator, you cannot possibly improve the grounding on them as the plugs are only powered by the battery durring startup and power usage surges.
For some bizzare reason I also have the idea in my head that you should never ground your battery to your engine block directly. I forgot why already (read it somewhere :/ ) !? Anyway, the more traditional route is to upgrade the Grounding Strap AND Battery to Chassis negative wire AND Alternator to Battery positive wire. All very cheap and easy to do.
I can verify, upgrading the grounding strap alone makes a huge difference with headlight dimming when you are pushing above 1000 watts rms.
Last edited by Lyon[Nightroad]; May 25, 2010 at 07:58 AM.




