Oil: The debate starter.
Hey Margelous Didn't mean to crimp you - guess it was the way you titled the thread and the day I was having and the search engine here.... - - well you know that part.
There's at least one Amsoil fan around here that I know of and the recommendation coming out of my Honda service guy is to wait till you run through two oil changes before switching to syn - if that's the way you want to go - just keep it 5W20, but what I'm seeing is that if you're in the cold climes going to a 0W20 is perfectly okay.
I'm still in dino mode but will be going to a true 5W20 extended syn oil after two dino changes. Just need to figure out which syn fit's the FIT.
K_C_peace
There's at least one Amsoil fan around here that I know of and the recommendation coming out of my Honda service guy is to wait till you run through two oil changes before switching to syn - if that's the way you want to go - just keep it 5W20, but what I'm seeing is that if you're in the cold climes going to a 0W20 is perfectly okay.
I'm still in dino mode but will be going to a true 5W20 extended syn oil after two dino changes. Just need to figure out which syn fit's the FIT.

K_C_peace
See, I'm hearing two different stories on changes. Some are saying you can switch to syn after the 1st oil change (including the dealer last I took it) and others say after the second. I'm on the second and considering switching to syn. Might just go with mobil 1 since its easily available.
No 0w-20 necessary here as the coldest it gets in so cal all year is 40ish...at night
.
I know all about synthetics, but would using dino oil running it to 15 percent on the maintenance minder be ok? Trying to save money. Running different synthetics is not good, wifes old van now leaks oil. Used cheaper syn. oil to save money did not work.
No prob.
See, I'm hearing two different stories on changes. Some are saying you can switch to syn after the 1st oil change (including the dealer last I took it) and others say after the second. I'm on the second and considering switching to syn. Might just go with mobil 1 since its easily available.
No 0w-20 necessary here as the coldest it gets in so cal all year is 40ish...at night
.
See, I'm hearing two different stories on changes. Some are saying you can switch to syn after the 1st oil change (including the dealer last I took it) and others say after the second. I'm on the second and considering switching to syn. Might just go with mobil 1 since its easily available.
No 0w-20 necessary here as the coldest it gets in so cal all year is 40ish...at night
.From all I've learned you're on to a good choice and you're at the right point to switch over. Lot's of marketing goes into DIY engine oils. Mobile1 is a solid product.
Thing that continues to get me is that the MM is saying 60% oil life and my mileage stands at 6+K. To me a really good reason to go syn., however, todays dino oils will go that far and perform just about as well.
K_C_
No prob.
See, I'm hearing two different stories on changes. Some are saying you can switch to syn after the 1st oil change (including the dealer last I took it) and others say after the second. I'm on the second and considering switching to syn. Might just go with mobil 1 since its easily available.
No 0w-20 necessary here as the coldest it gets in so cal all year is 40ish...at night
.
See, I'm hearing two different stories on changes. Some are saying you can switch to syn after the 1st oil change (including the dealer last I took it) and others say after the second. I'm on the second and considering switching to syn. Might just go with mobil 1 since its easily available.
No 0w-20 necessary here as the coldest it gets in so cal all year is 40ish...at night
.Synthetics have their bonuses, however by no means are they "required".
What do you mean by "did not work"?
If I got to get my oil changed at the dealer(I have a while since im only at 1500 miles), what brand would they be putting in? And can I give them oil to put in? If I can, what do you guys recommend. Florida, its 100degrees 99% of the year, and my commute is about a 20 mile drive each way to and from work.
I would let the dealer do the first two changes using Honda oil/filter. After the second oil change switch to a 5W20 synthetic - ask the servic guys if you can bring your choice of oil to them, or if they would change w/ a synthetic. It's dealer's choice I believe.
My feeling is that ANY named brand synthetic is going to serve the typical driving consumer well and in your hot climate syn is the way to go. I would trust a dealer to check the fluids in my ride well before a "quick-lube" place. Personally I do all my own oil changes, however, many folks just aren't in that position.
K_C
My feeling is that ANY named brand synthetic is going to serve the typical driving consumer well and in your hot climate syn is the way to go. I would trust a dealer to check the fluids in my ride well before a "quick-lube" place. Personally I do all my own oil changes, however, many folks just aren't in that position.
K_C
I heard great thing about Amsoil, do you use a bypass filter? I have a link to a oil study lots of good info on mobil,Amsoil Synthetic Oil Life Study But you have to look around and they stop before they finished.
SAE 5W-20 XL Synthetic Motor Oil 1 gallon for 26.55
AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil and Engine Oil what do you think?
If I got to get my oil changed at the dealer(I have a while since im only at 1500 miles), what brand would they be putting in? And can I give them oil to put in? If I can, what do you guys recommend. Florida, its 100degrees 99% of the year, and my commute is about a 20 mile drive each way to and from work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZCvMQhbH-8
I would let the dealer do the first two changes using Honda oil/filter. After the second oil change switch to a 5W20 synthetic - ask the servic guys if you can bring your choice of oil to them, or if they would change w/ a synthetic. It's dealer's choice I believe.
My feeling is that ANY named brand synthetic is going to serve the typical driving consumer well and in your hot climate syn is the way to go. I would trust a dealer to check the fluids in my ride well before a "quick-lube" place. Personally I do all my own oil changes, however, many folks just aren't in that position.
K_C
My feeling is that ANY named brand synthetic is going to serve the typical driving consumer well and in your hot climate syn is the way to go. I would trust a dealer to check the fluids in my ride well before a "quick-lube" place. Personally I do all my own oil changes, however, many folks just aren't in that position.
K_C
Last edited by FIT410S; Jun 30, 2010 at 03:41 PM.
Well it would be nice if I typed "oil" into the search function and got something other than no matches or "oil change" without getting unrelated topics.
So thanks to all the others for replying
I was curious to ask because there always seems to be a big rift between synthetic and dino oil and dealerships all seem to use different oils, while other manufacturers swear by only one oil. Everyone always says synthetic is a waste, but they sure sell mobil1 for a decent price at walmart.
So thanks to all the others for replying

I was curious to ask because there always seems to be a big rift between synthetic and dino oil and dealerships all seem to use different oils, while other manufacturers swear by only one oil. Everyone always says synthetic is a waste, but they sure sell mobil1 for a decent price at walmart.
Its all about how much profit they make on a quart of oil. Fits run very well on 0-20 or 5W20 oil as Honda intended, especialkly on synthetic like Mobil 1. As far as a waste, get them to show you comparative dyno runs. Ours show 2-4% power increase and about 1-2 mpg better economy. Plus syn=thetics are good for 6000 miles and dyno 3500 mi. yeah I know , it should be good for more in both cases but we see the fall off in viscosity quicker than that for our 'abuse'; on track.
I bought Quaker State syn. on sale at Walmart a few years ago. I know Mobil1 lasts 8000-10000 miles easy and had no problems until after I use other synthetics, after 4000 miles it started to breakdown add a few quarts and kept on going to 8000 miles. Then I changed to super tech which is the same as quaker-state same problem kept adding oil, now leaking oil out of valve covers, main seal, The van has 127000 miles and is 10 years old. My point is pick an oil and stick with it changing brands is not good. This all started in 2008 when there was an shortage of Mobil 1 because of hurricane Katrina.
Last edited by SilverBullet; Jul 1, 2010 at 10:19 PM. Reason: add something
Dino oil will be satisfactory to meet the minimum requirements of your Fit if you change it as per the MM and keep and eye on the level in the meantime.
The whole thing about oil and changing it after 3000 miles or so is the acid that builds up in it after use. that is the cause of corrosion in the rings and bearings. Buy a good synthethic oil if your going to use the maintenance minder. Most dino oils break down fast after 3000 miles. And another thing to think about is.... how small is your oil filter????? do you want the by-pass opening after about 4000 miles and have non-filtered oil circulating around your motor????? I don't,,,, buy the best oil you can afford and a descent filter I prefer Amsoil 0w20 and Wix # 51356 filters.
Texas & Silver Im thinking of buying a gallon of
SAE 5W-20 XL Synthetic Motor Oil 1 gallon for 26.55
AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil and Engine Oil what do you think?
are you thinking of relocating away from florida, as i hear it might get horrible from the oil volcano?
YouTube - URGENT!! BP SPILL - VOLCANIC TSUNAMI AND POISON GAS ALERT!!
Now you have me thinking I need to do what your suggesting at the dealer. Any other want to chime in?

SAE 5W-20 XL Synthetic Motor Oil 1 gallon for 26.55
AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil and Engine Oil what do you think?
are you thinking of relocating away from florida, as i hear it might get horrible from the oil volcano?
YouTube - URGENT!! BP SPILL - VOLCANIC TSUNAMI AND POISON GAS ALERT!!
Now you have me thinking I need to do what your suggesting at the dealer. Any other want to chime in?

The whole thing about oil and changing it after 3000 miles or so is the acid that builds up in it after use. that is the cause of corrosion in the rings and bearings. Buy a good synthethic oil if your going to use the maintenance minder. Most dino oils break down fast after 3000 miles. And another thing to think about is.... how small is your oil filter????? do you want the by-pass opening after about 4000 miles and have non-filtered oil circulating around your motor????? I don't,,,, buy the best oil you can afford and a descent filter I prefer Amsoil 0w20 and Wix # 51356 filters.

Hmm, maybe you should switch dealers? Or better yet, change it yourself... Any dealer pushing a 3000 mile OCI on a Fit with the MM hasn't done their homework, and it if it were me, I wouldn't trust them with my vehicle.
Dino oil will be satisfactory to meet the minimum requirements of your Fit if you change it as per the MM and keep and eye on the level in the meantime.
Dino oil will be satisfactory to meet the minimum requirements of your Fit if you change it as per the MM and keep and eye on the level in the meantime.
I was using Cam2 recommended by my mechanic and the Fit never misses a beat. He's kinda far away so I'm switching to Mobil 1 at the shop down the road. I used Mobil 1 before in all my other Hondas, def a rock solid oil.



