Good thread, I to am thinking about replacing the stock speakers, and powering them with a small but quality amp. Also want to stay as low profile as I can. I wouldnt mind a small sub but then I'd need a cargo cover and it adds to the cost of the system....

I'd like to know too.

I have a GD3 and started to tap the harness wires using these little PIA's:
http://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/file...dlights-09.jpg
Yesterday I tapped the wires for the speakers, and I was sure I tapped the right wires for my LOC. But I wasn't getting a signal to my amp, but the remote wire was working. I just decided to forget it and get an OEM stereo because I didn't feel like tapping more wires (those things SUCK)

SO this morning I went back to take the taps off, and realized they didn't even expose the metal on the wire harness wires! If I can get one of those amp adapters for <$50, I'd definitely consider getting one instead of getting an aftermarket stereo and dashkit.

I just started thinking about this the other day. I really rather not be broken into, would an aftermarket stereo really alert a thieve?

Hah. I'm going the same route as I want to keep my interior as stock as possible. Thieves are thieves, they will take whatever want may it be stock or aftermarket. But obviously an aftermarket deck will be more of a potential sale if they get their hands on one.

I am going with a PAC unit as well, getting a 4/5 channel amp to power all 4 speakers and (maybe) add a small sub in the future.

I've been researching stereos to get, and then started thinking about thieves. I'm only 16 and this is my first car. We live in a pretty good area, and I can park in a garage, so I've never really had a break-in experience. But I'll be going to a local college next year and I have no idea how the security is over there, so I found a DIY for a fake stereo faceplate (lol)

Anyways, this cool little thing could possibly deter thieves. Given that you hide your amp/subs well too.

Well, it's still up to you. It's your car after all. It's only my plan for my car to keep it stock looking inside, my rear windows are tinted and I have a cargo cover anyway so that can at least minimize the fishbowl appearance of the car and hide my valuables.

I like to use the PAC unit because it will lessen the use of cutting/splicing wires.

I hope the PAC unit will work in my 2008 Base.. If so I'm definitely getting that. I kind of want to stay stock now, paranoia is getting to me xD

And about the cargo cover, I kind of want to try a DIY one like some users have made on here. They look relatively simple, as long as I get the right material for safety reasons. I might possibly just splurge on a 60 dollar OEM cover with the money I save from not buying a dashkit.

My GD is a base too, but I replaced my head unit with the one that came from a sport so I get mp3/wma capability as well as the preset equalizer. The sport unit pushes a bit more power compared to a base unit too. So my suggestion to you is to find a cheap head unit off a sport and use that with the PAC.

Check your local Craigslist for some deals.

If I can get that PAC adapter, I can just tap some wires on it to get an auxiliary input. It'll be easy.

EDIT: Nevermind, the wires needed for auxiliary aren't on the wiring harness, I just checked the DIY thread for it (https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...-base-fit.html)

Dang. I forgot the US base GD's don't even have the aux port too. :/

Yeah I may as well just get a simple DIN stereo with RCA out and AUX in.

Yeah. Or get that new Sony Double din, they're less than $200. If ever my oem unit craps out, I'm going for that one.

New head unit is the way to go. The OE Head unit isn't a high quality one so if you are looking for any decent sound, you'll have to replace that. Adding an amp will add more power, but won't improve the quality of sound, only make the bad sound that comes out even louder. I replaced the OE Headunit (which is REALLY EASY BTW) about 3 weeks ago and the difference in sound quality (and volume) is much better, just by dropping in a $250 double-din head unit (which has bluetooth, dual USB, 3 sets of pre-amp outputs, etc...).

Remember, the source of your audio has to be good to see the benefit of speaker or amplifier upgrades. If you don't upgrade the HU, it'll be like upgrading from stock tires to drag slicks on a Yugo. you won't see much (if any) benefit unless you upgrade the car/engine first.

~SB

I might just get a single DIN because - 1. I don't like the touch screens and don't need the features. I like to press the buttons without looking, it's harder to do that without a touch screen. Plus, if I have auxiliary input I don't need bluetooth. I only need one pre-amp output because I'm just running one sub, possibly two in the future. and - 2. I can't afford a nice double DIN unit right now xD

I'm probably going to find one with a removable faceplate.

What's your budget? Crutchfield has some decent double-din units for relatively inexpensive and if you've never purchased from them before, I have a referral code that should get you $20 off. PM Me. I just installed the JVC Double-din and it does not have a touch screen. large knob, a few decently placed buttons and that's all.

~SB

Would the referral code get me a discount on other JVC stereos?
And probably, including the dashkit (~$50), I have about 200 to spend on the stereo.

Referral Code should work on most any Car Stereo (either over $100 or $200, Can't remember).

This is the Stereo I have - I chose this because of the display (although I wish it was a little bit brighter in the sun)

These are the Double Din Stereos that Crutchfield has. I recommend Double-Din so you don't have a Giant pocket above or below and the Stereo takes up more of the dash (plus the display is bigger and there is more room for buttons, knobs, etc... - easier to use with bigger buttons in my opinion)

Here's the Referral Code: pvrc8-62577-2c0iq

~SB

Thanks! I agree that Double Dins are easier. Even ones that are limited on features are more expensive tho :/ and I don't mind the pocket much. I could use it to hold my phone/iPod if I'm playing music from them. If I can find a good-priced non-touch screen Double Din, I'll go for it (:

This is the one I'm getting "IF EVER" I decide to go aftermarket.

Sony WX-GT80UI CD receiver at Crutchfield.com

That reminds me of the Fit OEM stereo. CD on top, big round volume knob in the center with buttons around the edges. I might consider that actually. My dad shares this car on occasion and I wouldn't want him to be totally lost! xD

Ususally you are talking $20-$40 difference in price for a double din but you almost always get more features. Remember that you'll have this probably for a while and if you spend a bunch of time in the car, it would make sense to spend the extra $20-$40 for the upgrade. Especially if it provides other things (Safety/conveninence features like bluetooth). I routed the USB Cable to the factory location so I still have my ipod in the upper glove box and that part looks stock. Double-Din head units are also easier to read.

Ultimately, it's your choice but I'd go with a DD unit vs a Single Din if the difference in price is minimal.

~SB