I wish it was even 45 degrees here. Melt some of this crap.

 

Despite assertions to the contrary, I'm an old(er) fart who has survived VW Beetles and busses, and a '47 Pontiac with it's heater under the seat. I rigged petcocks in the heater loop under the hood, turned 'em on in September and off in April. Actually, the Beetles weren't too bad, if the levers were set correctly and the heat exchangers in decent shape. The Westfalia bus was hopeless; I had a propane heater rigged in the sink.

Unhappily, the older I get, the less toleration I have for being cold. Hence the thread.
We've mentioned blocking some of the radiator; anyone actually try that?
Moon

 

Hasn't been above freezing here the last two weeks. I washed Fit this monring.

I remember the real real old ones say around 26 - 29 that my Dad drove. No heater.

I am older and still tolerant. Well when it comes to the Fit.

 

There is no 'off' valve on the Fit's heater core, least not on the 2010's, coolant flows continuously through it. The dash mounted temperature controls effect damper doors in the heater box, as do the output controls. The fan controls it's speed. Heater core valves are actually a thing of the past [no sense lamenting], today's cooling systems are open unrestricted flow designs for the most part.

The warm-up light goes out at 135f and is independent of the thermostat. It is the indicator to turn on the fan.

Best thing to do on a cold winter morning is to climb in and start 'er up then, if needed clear off the snow and ice, and simply drive off. Turn on the blower once the little blue light goes off and have the temp set at max/warm. If conditions require defrost, then a short wait to get the heater core warm will be required before take-off.

Even on a cold start and defrost is selected the fact that the AC comes on w/ it will reduce inside window fogging.

Only time I use recirculate is if the guy in-front of me hit a skunk in the middle of the road.....

baby it's cold outside

K_C_

 

CK's post reminded me that heater controls are all air doors now. I'm sure there are reasons for that; a valve controlling water is subject to leakage of coolant or pressure; either will lead to overheating or boiling. It's got to be cheaper to make air doors than valves as well.
Also, the heater core acts as an auxiliary radiator, saving space and weight.
This stuff doesn't happen by accident.
Moon

 

The no heater valve thing is true on the GD-3s also.... It is just wrong to have coolant at 170f + circulating so close to the AC evaporator when it is 100+ outside... I agree that it does serve as a secondary radiator. The idea of inline valves operated from under the hood and an add on secondary radiator to compensate is something I considered when KC first explained how this system worked. Just hooking a small secondary radiator inline on the hose where the cooled water from the radiator goes to the heater may lower the inside temperature enough to allow the AC to work better when It is torturously hot and humid... But do I really want another radiator dissipating heat under my hood and increasing my air intake temperatures and robbing me of the horsepower I have spent time, money, sweat and blood get??? Something else for me to think about along with NACA ducts, more louvers and much more that is better suited to talking about on another thread.

 

we had a 76 Westfalia. the little heater opening under the back seat was pointless. an hour on the road and the rear passengers had thawed out (me & my brother). My parents were still frozen. Finally the 86 vanagon with it's water cooling made a world of difference (for a VW).

It's been over freezing here for 1 day in the last two weeks. (38* and I got to wash the fit. Couldn't tell it now). we have about 6" of snow on the ground.

~SB