Trans Fluid Changed early? (30K miles).
#24
Power flushes are not recommended as they may damage the transmission components if the power flush removes the sludge that was holding your shoddy transmission together, or if the tranny is sensitive to the pressure exerted by the external tool.
So you need to make sure your mechanic is using a passive fluid exchange machine (T-tec) and using it properly. But then, for the priviledge of using such a machine, you are paying more for the service.
In comparison, drain/fill requires no extra tool surcharge, and is harder to screw up. It also has a far lower cost, so even if you're not getting all the old fluid out, you can do multiple D/Fs for the same price as a full exchange. Plus, there's something to be said about gentlly replacing the fluid a portion at a time, rather then immediately replace all of it (again, more if if your transmission is held together by sludge). The transmission fluid shouldn't have been left to get to such a state where it is so completely bad anyway.
So you need to make sure your mechanic is using a passive fluid exchange machine (T-tec) and using it properly. But then, for the priviledge of using such a machine, you are paying more for the service.
In comparison, drain/fill requires no extra tool surcharge, and is harder to screw up. It also has a far lower cost, so even if you're not getting all the old fluid out, you can do multiple D/Fs for the same price as a full exchange. Plus, there's something to be said about gentlly replacing the fluid a portion at a time, rather then immediately replace all of it (again, more if if your transmission is held together by sludge). The transmission fluid shouldn't have been left to get to such a state where it is so completely bad anyway.
Last edited by raytseng; 02-07-2011 at 02:31 PM.
#26
Yes. That's how I do it. I have a funnel with a hose on to fill through the dipstick hole.
#28
We've filled through the dipstick with zero issues. 3 quarts drain out, 3 quarts go in.
After draining/filling at 19k miles and 27k miles, at 34k miles the transmission shifts like it did at 27k miles. Shift quality was notably improved at 19k miles by a drain/fill, and to a lesser extent at 27k miles. It's faster on the 1-2 shift now than at 26k miles.
After draining/filling at 19k miles and 27k miles, at 34k miles the transmission shifts like it did at 27k miles. Shift quality was notably improved at 19k miles by a drain/fill, and to a lesser extent at 27k miles. It's faster on the 1-2 shift now than at 26k miles.
#29
bumping this thread,
I have already performed 2 Drain/Fills with new DW-1 and have less than 15k miles to get to the "good stuff".
I just had my car in for the LMS recall (Fit is born on March 2009).
At the same time of the recall, I had asked them to apply the TSB for MPG display:
from the sticky: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...-info-ge8.html
This is to upgrade the PCM software to the latest available.
I think someone mentioned in another thread (which I cannot find), this software update seems to do more than just fix the MPG calculation(at least for my car with old 2009 software).
I'd like to give my 2cents that this indeed "seem" to make the shifts smoother (as I assume recall work on the engine wouldn't change shift behavior).
So just FYI, for those looking for the best in shift quality, it is worthwhile to make sure your PCM software is updated at your next service opportunity
I have already performed 2 Drain/Fills with new DW-1 and have less than 15k miles to get to the "good stuff".
I just had my car in for the LMS recall (Fit is born on March 2009).
At the same time of the recall, I had asked them to apply the TSB for MPG display:
from the sticky: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...-info-ge8.html
This is to upgrade the PCM software to the latest available.
I think someone mentioned in another thread (which I cannot find), this software update seems to do more than just fix the MPG calculation(at least for my car with old 2009 software).
I'd like to give my 2cents that this indeed "seem" to make the shifts smoother (as I assume recall work on the engine wouldn't change shift behavior).
So just FYI, for those looking for the best in shift quality, it is worthwhile to make sure your PCM software is updated at your next service opportunity
#30
I think someone mentioned in another thread (which I cannot find), this software update seems to do more than just fix the MPG calculation(at least for my car with old 2009 software).
I'd like to give my 2cents that this indeed "seem" to make the shifts smoother (as I assume recall work on the engine wouldn't change shift behavior).
So just FYI, for those looking for the best in shift quality, it is worthwhile to make sure your PCM software is updated at your next service opportunity
I'd like to give my 2cents that this indeed "seem" to make the shifts smoother (as I assume recall work on the engine wouldn't change shift behavior).
So just FYI, for those looking for the best in shift quality, it is worthwhile to make sure your PCM software is updated at your next service opportunity
#31
i didnt read the entire thread but was there lab tests done on the oil? discoloration does not mean the properties have all worn out or broken down.
metal shavings are typical on first tranny oil changes especially.
metal shavings are typical on first tranny oil changes especially.
#32
Thanks for the info.
I won't know until I take my samples at pre-determined intervals with the new DW-1 to see its color state.
Your statement makes me wonder if the initial (factory) fill of transmission fluid contains more/less additives than what comes in purchased bottles of OEM Honda transmission fluid. Maybe the transmission beats the hell out of the fluid during break-in, if so then why would Honda mention 60K in the maintenance intervals.
Time will tell.
Clay
I won't know until I take my samples at pre-determined intervals with the new DW-1 to see its color state.
Your statement makes me wonder if the initial (factory) fill of transmission fluid contains more/less additives than what comes in purchased bottles of OEM Honda transmission fluid. Maybe the transmission beats the hell out of the fluid during break-in, if so then why would Honda mention 60K in the maintenance intervals.
Time will tell.
Clay
I decided to do a 3 qt drain and fill with DW-1. Although the jerkiness during low-speed driving is mostly gone, the shifts are not smoother. Instead, it feels like the shifts are now much more "clean" and "crisp." Before, it seemed like the transmission slipped into gear. Now, the transmission engages each gear positively. The shifts are still a bit on the harsh side, but I plan to do another drain and fill with DW-1 to see what happens.
#33
I've been a Honda guy my entire life, and have worked on the maintenance side of Hondas for about 15 years. I'm currently a service advisor at a Honda dealer, and before that I was at a Honda/Acura only independent repair shop where I was the service manager - I also happen to be able to perform a lot of mechanical repairs such as my own engine swaps, built an engine, a few manual trannys, etc. etc.
I've always owned manual trannys since I enjoy shifting, but when my wife and I decided to get her a new Element back in 2005 she wanted an auto. at this time I was seeing all sorts of Honda auto tranny failures at my shop, so I was a bit gunshy abbout getting an auto tranny model.
My shop had always suggested 30K ATF drain'fill intervals. some Hondas have a total capacity (including torque converter) of close to NINE quarts, so a 3 qt. service only gets 1/3 of the fluid. I've seen how not servicing auto trannys enough can lead to premature failrues. Unfortunately I also know that if our Fit auto trannys are built with the same flawed design like Honda's 98-02 V6 and most of the 4-cyl Accord trannies changing fluid every 5K won't save us from tranny problems.
I set my Element's intervals at 15,000 miles and at it's last 75K drain/fill I performed it still looked bright red - seriously.
I plan on using those same 15,000 mile ATF drain/fill intervals for my newly-purchased auto 2011 Fit Sport too.
Screw Honda's maintenance minder.
Screw Honda's owner's manual and it's 10,000 mile oil change, 30,000 miles oil filter change, and it's ridiculous ATF service intervals.
Old Hondas lasted so long (IMO) not just because they were built better (they were) but because people kept them serviced far better/more frequently. I think all of the longer times (now being pushed these days) between maintenances are manufacturers' ways of marketing their cars as the "cheapest to own/maintain" more so than "you can keep this car for 200,000 miles without any major mechanical failures" like so many older Hondas are known for.
BTW:
If you have an auto Honda that isn't experiencing any transmission issues, but it hasn't been serviced ever, I'd suggest the drain/fill then drive, drain/fill then drive, and finally drain/fill then drive method to completely flush out all of the old fluid. You can pay a shop to do this, but as someone mentioned earlier (I believe it was my fellow Honda advisor) make sure they are not using any "power flush" equipment.
I've always owned manual trannys since I enjoy shifting, but when my wife and I decided to get her a new Element back in 2005 she wanted an auto. at this time I was seeing all sorts of Honda auto tranny failures at my shop, so I was a bit gunshy abbout getting an auto tranny model.
My shop had always suggested 30K ATF drain'fill intervals. some Hondas have a total capacity (including torque converter) of close to NINE quarts, so a 3 qt. service only gets 1/3 of the fluid. I've seen how not servicing auto trannys enough can lead to premature failrues. Unfortunately I also know that if our Fit auto trannys are built with the same flawed design like Honda's 98-02 V6 and most of the 4-cyl Accord trannies changing fluid every 5K won't save us from tranny problems.
I set my Element's intervals at 15,000 miles and at it's last 75K drain/fill I performed it still looked bright red - seriously.
I plan on using those same 15,000 mile ATF drain/fill intervals for my newly-purchased auto 2011 Fit Sport too.
Screw Honda's maintenance minder.
Screw Honda's owner's manual and it's 10,000 mile oil change, 30,000 miles oil filter change, and it's ridiculous ATF service intervals.
Old Hondas lasted so long (IMO) not just because they were built better (they were) but because people kept them serviced far better/more frequently. I think all of the longer times (now being pushed these days) between maintenances are manufacturers' ways of marketing their cars as the "cheapest to own/maintain" more so than "you can keep this car for 200,000 miles without any major mechanical failures" like so many older Hondas are known for.
BTW:
If you have an auto Honda that isn't experiencing any transmission issues, but it hasn't been serviced ever, I'd suggest the drain/fill then drive, drain/fill then drive, and finally drain/fill then drive method to completely flush out all of the old fluid. You can pay a shop to do this, but as someone mentioned earlier (I believe it was my fellow Honda advisor) make sure they are not using any "power flush" equipment.
Last edited by B18C5-EH2; 05-22-2011 at 09:48 AM.
#34
I've been a Honda guy my entire life, and have worked on the maintenance side of Hondas for about 15 years. I'm currently a service advisor at a Honda dealer, and before that I was at a Honda/Acura only independent repair shop where I was the service manager - I also happen to be able to perform a lot of mechanical repairs such as my own engine swaps, built an engine, a few manual trannys, etc. etc.
I've always owned manual trannys since I enjoy shifting, but when my wife and I decided to get her a new Element back in 2005 she wanted an auto. at this time I was seeing all sorts of Honda auto tranny failures at my shop, so I was a bit gunshy abbout getting an auto tranny model.
My shop had always suggested 30K ATF drain'fill intervals. some Hondas have a total capacity (including torque converter) of close to NINE quarts, so a 3 qt. service only gets 1/3 of the fluid. I've seen how not servicing auto trannys enough can lead to premature failrues. Unfortunately I also know that if our Fit auto trannys are built with the same flawed design like Honda's 98-02 V6 and most of the 4-cyl Accord trannies changing fluid every 5K won't save us from tranny problems.
I set my Element's intervals at 15,000 miles and at it's last 75K drain/fill I performed it still looked bright red - seriously.
I plan on using those same 15,000 mile ATF drain/fill intervals for my newly-purchased auto 2011 Fit Sport too.
Screw Honda's maintenance minder.
Screw Honda's owner's manual and it's 10,000 mile oil change, 30,000 miles oil filter change, and it's ridiculous ATF service intervals.
Old Hondas lasted so long (IMO) not just because they were built better (they were) but because people kept them serviced far better/more frequently. I think all of the longer times (now being pushed these days) between maintenances are manufacturers' ways of marketing their cars as the "cheapest to own/maintain" more so than "you can keep this car for 200,000 miles without any major mechanical failures" like so many older Hondas are known for.
BTW:
If you have an auto Honda that isn't experiencing any transmission issues, but it hasn't been serviced ever, I'd suggest the drain/fill then drive, drain/fill then drive, and finally drain/fill then drive method to completely flush out all of the old fluid. You can pay a shop to do this, but as someone mentioned earlier (I believe it was my fellow Honda advisor) make sure they are not using any "power flush" equipment.
I've always owned manual trannys since I enjoy shifting, but when my wife and I decided to get her a new Element back in 2005 she wanted an auto. at this time I was seeing all sorts of Honda auto tranny failures at my shop, so I was a bit gunshy abbout getting an auto tranny model.
My shop had always suggested 30K ATF drain'fill intervals. some Hondas have a total capacity (including torque converter) of close to NINE quarts, so a 3 qt. service only gets 1/3 of the fluid. I've seen how not servicing auto trannys enough can lead to premature failrues. Unfortunately I also know that if our Fit auto trannys are built with the same flawed design like Honda's 98-02 V6 and most of the 4-cyl Accord trannies changing fluid every 5K won't save us from tranny problems.
I set my Element's intervals at 15,000 miles and at it's last 75K drain/fill I performed it still looked bright red - seriously.
I plan on using those same 15,000 mile ATF drain/fill intervals for my newly-purchased auto 2011 Fit Sport too.
Screw Honda's maintenance minder.
Screw Honda's owner's manual and it's 10,000 mile oil change, 30,000 miles oil filter change, and it's ridiculous ATF service intervals.
Old Hondas lasted so long (IMO) not just because they were built better (they were) but because people kept them serviced far better/more frequently. I think all of the longer times (now being pushed these days) between maintenances are manufacturers' ways of marketing their cars as the "cheapest to own/maintain" more so than "you can keep this car for 200,000 miles without any major mechanical failures" like so many older Hondas are known for.
BTW:
If you have an auto Honda that isn't experiencing any transmission issues, but it hasn't been serviced ever, I'd suggest the drain/fill then drive, drain/fill then drive, and finally drain/fill then drive method to completely flush out all of the old fluid. You can pay a shop to do this, but as someone mentioned earlier (I believe it was my fellow Honda advisor) make sure they are not using any "power flush" equipment.
#36
Or why not just do the drain/fill every oil change while you are down there and at least get some miles on the fluid which also ensures the fluid is thoroughly mixed.
#38
I ordered 25430-PLR-003 I hope it's right.
#39
I did another 3 qt drain and refill with ATF DW-1 this morning. Even though the latest drain and refill only boosted the DW-1 percentage in the transmission from 50% to 75%, the shifts are even quicker and smoother than compared to after the first drain and refill. The transmission also engages first gear immediately from a stop, as opposed to before, where it would slam and lurch into 1st gear. Now it's easy to modulate the acceleration from a stop.