As is mine. Worked on F/A-18's and SH-60 B/F/H for 20 years and then retired. Maybe we have a little bit in common.

If you like 6's then you would like a local builder (is a ME from UF) that has recently built and tuned a 10.5 car that wen 181mph in the 1/8th.

He also holds turbo VW records from the early 90's. He is not a die hard oil person and would have some fun on this board in an oil thread.

 

It sounds like we have a lot in common in fact.

My main contention was the single statement that there is no bad oil.

Some oils are measurably better for a given application. Thats all I am saying.

10.5 Outlaw? 181 in the 1/8th is moving!

 

Yep. Their outlaw went 6.34 last year at Gainesville.

 

Very cool. I look forward to seeing your future contributions here! And as K_C asked earlier.. what sort of Fit do you have and do you intend to keep her stock or are there plans for it?

I am glad we could resolve this amicably.

Edit: NVM I see you updated your sig.

I too owned an R6, and like your 'busa it was turbo'd. Only made 230whp though

 

And looking back up thread.. I didn't know Shell Rotella T came in non-syn form?

This is what I use in my current track car:

 

Hmmm I used that in my 96DeVille. Recommended by a WWII ex-Navy submarine oiler.

 

It is good stuff, but the price skyrocketed in the last few months.

 

If you had said that in the first place we all would have had a lot less entertainment this afternoon.... Damn, you 2 guys have put together some fast moving machinery.

 

Ya I could've approached this better. But I am not a PR guy

I think it's the ADHD meds coupled with a good dose of stress that have kept me on edge for so long lately....

Speaking of fast movin machinery which oil(s) do you use in that hot hatch you built for yourself? From a technical and performance standpoint you have one of the most impressive Fits on the board Tex.

 

Here's a few links to fleet management opinions to look through:

Mythbusters: Fleet Edition - Article - Business Fleet

How super are synthetics?

Lubricant engineers are upping the fuel-efficiency quotient for motor oil

I forget the thread you asked the UPS thing in - possibly you could quote this over to it.

This thread has kept me amused and it's time for supper_

K_C_

 

You motor heads are just tightly wound, Cross country motorcycle racers are the same way and when the flag drops all hell breaks loose... Imagine what it would be like to be used as a traction mat after busting your ass mid way up a hill, been there twice in my first 3 races.. I decided I'd just stick to wrenching on their bikes before it happened again.... Since my car was starting to look like it had more oil on the rear end of it than in the crankcase after the high boost upgrade and I think 0w20 Mobile 1.. I changed to 5w30 Mobile 1 with 4 ounces of Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer and it seems to have taken care of the problem but knocked my fuel milage down about 2 MPG.. Even though oil was coming out of the exhaust pipe the oil level dropped just a tiny amount. That leads me to believe that there may be a bit of fuel diluting the oil. Between my thumb and index finger the oil in the engine had the same consistency in feel as oil fresh from the plastic container so I just don't know.. The reflash tune surprised me with lower operating temperatures than I had with the base kit and 5PSI boost and the same ignition timing when driving in the same manner just coming and going.. After a hard run the temps get up a little higher after returning to cruising speed, unless it is feasible to drop down a gear and feather foot it takes awhile to cool back down..

 

KC good articles. The car using regular oil compared to synthetic is not a fair example. It just proves dont change to synthetic oil after using regular oil.

I can see why a truck should use synthetics, but theres a down side too. They tend to leak and then the leaks lose a lot more oil. My truck and the truck under it has oil usage problems with less than 120000 miles. I know that sounds like a lot but for a truck its nothing. They usually go 1 million miles. When they change the fuel to ultra low sulfur fuels and oils it brought it down to 500000 miles. Thats part of the stimulus plan the government has. Thats why oil and gas is so high and the products you buy. Most truck havn't smoked in years and got better mpg. We used to get 6.2mpg or higher with lots of idling and now we get around 5.5mpg and no idling. The motors heat soaks and the starter is trying to turn over an assembly that weighs more than the fits motor. We are going through more oil and starters and having some of the motors replaced before the 500000 mile mark. The recession has cause the trucks to stop and if you go to a used truck lot and look underneath they all leak. That means they are not road worthy and if they are not leaking they will after 1000 miles. The 10w30 is a new oil and when I heard about it on a trucker radio show the differences is less than 1 percent. I am for clean air but using more of something is not cleaning up things.

 

I knew a guy that was talked into buying an off brand synthetic oil back in the 80s to use in an old high mileage Ford that was on it's last leg... He ended up leaking so much oil out of it that he ran the engine dry and trashed it the rest of the way out and tried to sue the guy but the car was so old his father's law firm bought him another junker to drive so they wouldn't have to listen to his raving.. My wife's truck was 7 years old and had about 75000 miles on it when I started using Castrol Syntec in it where before she had always used 30wt dino oil in it... After a couple of changes and no leaks I went ahead and went with full synthetic Castrol and on to 5W20 Mobil 1 and it has never leaked or burned oil... I read that the earlier synthetics did leak and to cure the problem mineral oil was blended with it, so now there is really no pure synthetic motor oil being sold... Has anyone ever checked these trucks to see where the oil is leaking from?

 

I am not against synthetic oils, but when spending 65 dollars compared to 30 and still have to change it at 6000 miles in my 08 fit, I see no benefit. I am still learning and want to be corrected if wrong. It all about API rating a 30 wt doesn't have the API rating even though down south it should be fine all year. The break in oil is the most important because the film is formed on the bearings and after that not much is needed to maintain.

They leak from the mains mostly but all the seals dry up with the new oils and fuels. When sulfur was in there it might of build up and prevented the leaks but still ran better and got better mpg. My truck shuts down if idling more than 3 minutes and the manual say 5 minutes cool down. Heat soaking for both trucks and cars is what destroys the motor.

 

D-Star. Any type of synthetic made my clutches slip (even Amsoil) after i went to the Turbo. Tried all the "tricks" on them but just went to Rotella 10-40.

Amazon.com: Shell Oil 1540G ROTELLA 15W40 CJ4 GAL @ 3/CASE ROTELLA T DIESEL OIL: Sports & Outdoors

I used this version in my FZ1, SV1000S, Bandit 1200, Busa (1397, 1507, Turbo).

 

I never had a problem like any of that except with Arco Graphite oil in the 80s when I used in a VW diesel and that stuff was leaky in a friends Ford Bronco too. Harley Davidson Shovel Head motors are notorious for leaking and I never had a leak on mine using 10W50 Amsoil.. From what I have read it would seem that the lighter viscosity synthetics dissipate heat better than Dino oil... Do you think that it is possible that it's ability to flow faster could be circulating it too quickly for the heat to be dissipated? Is the truck you drive equipped with an oil cooler? I'm kind of baffled.

 

Its about oil break down and your right the heat bing dissipated too. We use 15w40 semi synthetic and after cool down the temps still go above 210 after siting 5 minutes. I used to leave the motor run out doors and remember before the no idling laws I was waiting 15 minutes for a driver to get into a dock and I just back in 123 and was out in 5 and she yelled at me for idling and I yelled back you better learn how to drive and then talk to me about wasting fuel.

There is an oil cooler but there 44 quarts of oil circulating through the motor and the leaner fuel air mix makes the engine run hotter. Thats why I use premium too, it actually runs richer but the ecu pulls fuel and gets better mpg.

 

Getting back to oil break down and oil not dissipating. I am sure the clearances are tighter and because the heat has no where to go it breaks down, cause the seals to leak and since a diesel also uses oil pressure to activate the injectors there might be some leaking there and the motor runs leaner causing more heat.

 

Went to a different Wally World and seen the the difference. 5w20 is a Group 4 oil and is 24.50 and the 0w20 is now group 5 and is 23.50 for 5 quarts. Use M1 0w20 and pocket the difference for gasoline. I doubt M1 5w20 will ever be a group 5 and as the 2011's come out the oil they use would have to be 0w20 in the bulk tanks. It costs more to have both and if the non certified oil changer puts in the wrong oil there would be problems.

 

Since I live a cold climate, I am happy about this news. I cringe whenever I start an engine at -20. I want viscous liquid at that temp, not honey. I have actually been trying to rack up miles on my Fit so that I can put synthetic in. My dealer say’s I have to wait until 6,000 miles. This information may have been relayed before the 0W-20 oil became available, I don’t know. I may have a hard time putting this many miles on my car before next winter, which for me starts around Sept.

A few questions:
Is the 0W-20 fully synthetic?
Does anyone know if Honda will add this 0W oil at the first oil change?

The added 0W-20 expense arguments baffle me. When I consider how many people spend money on bottled water and $6.00 lattes, an extra $30 on an oil change is really insignificant. It won’t bother me a bit, especially if it helps my engine run better and longer.

An interesting side note: I recall a lubrication and wear study, on internal combustion engines, done by McDonnell Douglas back in the early 80’s. (I know, go figure). They maintained that over 90% of all engine wear was introduced at startup. According the report, (which I think Car & Driver relayed, maybe it was another car mag), all other lubrication factors were basically insignificant in regard to engine wear. This was for daily driver usage, not high performance track abuse. In other words, they highly praised synthetics for their initial protective qualities. According to the magazine article, most major automakers were aware of the McDonnell Douglas study and had no arguments with their findings.