Here's the full story from Honda: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/gene...tml#post969001

 

Very good.

Thank you.

 

In response to your earlier post.. There is mineral oil added to all synthetic motor oils. It has been added to curb the leaking that was common with the 100% synthetic products when they first appeared on the market.

 

Um... You want thicker oil?

 

When the temperature is very low Honey is not liquid, oil is viscous and still a liquid...

 

I started the van today and it leaks, Have to replace the valve cover gaskets. The car has been sitting but has synthetic oil M1 High Mileage 10w30. Oil is changing just like the gasolines. Thats why prices are higher too.

 

Ah, I guess I was just reading it wrong then.

 

Where do you get the information that Honda uses additives in factory fill oil? Could you point me to it?
I suspect it's an urban legend.

 

Honda themselves will tell you, every manufacturer does this and any engine should be run with a high moly/zddp dino oil for break in.

Urban legend huh? Why is it with the internet at your disposal you couldn't be bothered to do some basic research and instead assert an ignorant "gut" feeling with no basis what so ever?

Here's a nice hot cup of shut the fuck up:


From your own signature: "There is no sin greater than ignorance"

Yet here we are.

 

The additive is not in the factory fill oil, but the pistons are moly coated. This disperses gradually during break in. You do not want to flush it out by changing the the initial fill oil too soon. Note the high moly in the Blackstone report above. A large dose of ZDDP is not there because phosphorus degrades the cat over time, an emissions warranty issue. One of the reasons I prefer Chevron oil is moly in the Oronite additive package.

 

I believe you will find lots of moly in Schaeffer Oil. But they don't refine a 0W-20. Closest they come is their Supreme 7000 Synthetic Plus™ SAE 5W-20.

Think I'll be running Toyota's 0W-20. Easy for me to access and I have read very good things about it.

 

Its the cost to make 0W-20; there are components in the recipe that are needed to get to 0W that are fairly costly but thats not the biggest reason for the high cost. They don't have the volume necessary to justify the lower cost. If you produce a thousand gallons in the same equipment you make 100,000 gallons the unit cost is considerably greater for the 1000 gallons.

 

Wanna bet? in the artic winter you do not turn your engine off unless you don't want to restart. Most oils are pretty solid at -20F; try draining your oil at that temp. It just looks at you.
Oils, like food recipes, are full of additives to combat wear, viscosity change, and lots of others we don't talk about.

 

Your answer might be Amsoil, which appears to have a recipe with fairly low moly content. As does Mobil 1. Was sulfides checked?
Al has stabilized at about 8-10 ppm, pretty normal especially since the 3 sigma variation is about 5 ppm. Fe also, interesting that Boron is decreased but Ca in increased ! That one involves some research.
It would also be useful if the friction level was checked by determing the power loss across a known gear train. That's the real measure of lubricant worth.

 

Magic pixie dust is one component, but since China has been mass producing it for apple computers it should cost less soon.

Do what the dealer does and throw cheap bulk oil of another viscosity in there.

 

It's all about "pour point" and most synthetics have a pour point of -40F or even colder, expecially the 0W20s.

 

Skip the Honda brand and just use Castrol or Pennzoil. Full synthetic at Wal Mart is $25 for 5 qts. Anything with the Honda emblum is way marked up.

 

And on what authority can you make this claim? When you say "full synthetic" are you talking about Group 3, or Group 4, or Group 5, or maybe Group 6?

 

Man, are you in for an uphill battle haha

 

I feel bad for the dude trying to question wetphoto. He's just going to be met with senseless arguing/trolling by a man with no facts to back his opinions up.