Do you use snow tires, and if so, what kind?

 

YUP!

I got sick of staring at the yellow light for 5 months after installing my Enkei wheels. Taping over it won't help, i'll still see the yellowish glow around it, same as now, since my GPS is blocking that corner. So I got it done at the dealer. I mentioned that I might use my OE wheels to do winter swaps in the future and he gave me a "discount"... only $90 vs $125, in the hopes that I come back each time I swap wheels to have them do it.

If I do swap winter/summer tires... I'm gonna see if I can find the VT55 for cheap.

 

Just get the Quickset and read out sensor IDs... it'll be cheaper than the VT55. Only thing is the Quickset can't activate new/un-activated sensors, so one has to do the dealer visit at least once.

 

Why not just switch out the tires?

 

Probably because you can't do that in your drive way . With separate wheels, you can change them in your driveway instead of driving to the dealer/tire shop/mechanic and waiting. And you'll likely have to rebalance every time you switch tires, so I imagine it would start to get more expensive.

I didn't have that problem with the tire/wheel/TPMS sensor package I bought from Tirerack *shrug*. I did have to activate the sensors according to the PDI procedure, since I guess Tirerack sent me OEM sensors, but you could also ask whatever store you buy the sensors from to activate them.

 

I was under the impression that the ECU only stored one set of IDs, hence the need to reprogram it each time you swap.

hum... I wonder if that's the "learning" procedure for the TPMS.

I got my package from Tirerack also, tire/wheel/sensor.

I'll have to give this a test (again, if i do the wheel swap).

 

I can't believe what people get charged these days for changing out wheels and tires... My wife took her car to the dealer today and was charged $238 for a new filter and to check a tire for a slow leak which became an unasked for rotation and nitrogen adding charges.. They claimed her battery was bad and put a new one in at no charge though I check it on my charger when I charge up the batteries on the other cars and stuff and it always has a 100% charge on it.

 

Just to clarify, having working TPMS depends on two things -- having the car programmed with the TPMS sensor IDs, and making sure the sensors are active (i.e. actually transmitting).

I have a Quickset tool, which handles programming the car with the right set of sensor IDs.

What you and neteng101 were talking about is activating the sensors, making sure they're actually active. The VT55 ONLY activates sensors. I was just pointing out that you *may* not need a tool to activate the sensors. You will definitely need something to program the car though!

 

the VT15 activates sensors... the VT55 programs it into the ECU (according to their ATEQ site anyway)

edit: never mind, found out one online seller is selling it for $999... blah, not buying that!

 

Oh, you were talking about the VT55 OBD2 tool, not the plain VT55) -- my bad. Yes, that one will program the ECU as well as activating the TPMS sensors, but that runs over $1k, which is why I didn't think you were talking about that one initially...

I still don't think you'll be able to get the VT55 OBD2 for less than a Quickset, but if you do, let me know cause I want one!

 

I remember reading about Quickset before I bought my Fit... but then shortly after that (before I bought the new wheels), TireRack took them off their site and there was something either on their site or a forum about an incompatibility.

But if it works for you... I'm gonna try to find where to buy one.

 

My suspicion is that Tirerack stopped carrying them because the devices are a pain to get setup properly, and they were probably tired of getting returns back from people that gave up (it doesn't help that Tirerack often shipped the TPMS sensors inactivated or provided the wrong sensor IDs). The software is incredibly buggy and the device itself doesn't have enough feedback to let you know what is the problem -- but once it does finally work, it's dead simple to use.

There's a couple other posts in some of the other winter driving threads from others that have tried the device; I think everybody eventually got it working, but you might want to check those out before buying.

 

Doesn't seem buggy to me, as far as the software and Quickset doing its actual function.

But wrongly providing sensor IDs and sending them non-activated is what causes all the issues, so Tire Rack is really just taking the easy way out, sadly.

Which is why I'm going to say have the dealer do the 1st activation/programming of any new set of sensors to avoid all the errors, and then read out the IDs with the Quickset so subsequent swaps can be done manually.

 

Well, back when I used it, I recall that, when entering the sensor ids, I couldn't use the mouse to change to different sensors. And I couldn't just click on a sensor to enter its ID, like you would think -- I had to click it then hit enter then enter the IDs. And there was some issue with hex vs decimal sensor IDs. However, I did get the Quickset shortly after it came out, so maybe all those bugs are fixed now.

 

Only used it more recently - wouldn't say its exactly the most user friendly thing built, but seems decent enough to get the job done. Someday, someone might come up with an OBD2 VT55-like for cheap... it can't be THAT expensive to build such a device.

OBD2 is basically a serial interface, just need to know how to program the ECUs, and the sensors are activated and transmit a simple radio signal. $1k+ for the tool just reflects the whole rip-off nature of TPMS.

 

It sounds easiest to just change the tires!

 

It would if you have the machinery to do it, otherwise you have to take it to a shop to have it done.

 

Easiest is to get the TREAD act revoked and remove TPMS altogether! Bloody nag monitor.

 

I drive a 2013 GE8 Sport on the stock all-season (natch) Dunlop tires. They have frankly been absolutely incredible in the fluffy or icy stuff. Easing into the throttle gently reveals it to be extremely adept at gripping appropriately with or without the VSA enabled (stability control system). Maybe I'm experiencing an anomaly because those tires have an exceptionally poor reputation. But I drove them tonight in well over 3 inches of snow with a layer of ice beneath. Aside from one unfortunate yet predictable incident where I could not go up a step hill even with momentum from the flat, they float but they will eventually grip to a reasonable degree. I can report the same performance in five inches of fresh Colorado powder including a successful run over a pass summiting at +10,000 ft. My brother's 2005 Honda Accord on all-seasons very nearly bogged down while I drove right through with nary a complaint from the traction control.

And that is on crappy all-season tires. I picture this car being practically invincible on halfway decent or even the worst of all snow tires. The light weight requires some delicate touch in keeping the car in line and with firm grip, but it will eventually power through with careful attention to the throttle. Never in my life have I experienced better performance in winter conditions on all-season tires. There is no substitute. The Honda Fit is an absolute beast in the snow provided the driver is appropriately attentive and I imagine nearly invincible with proper snow tires. I witnessed several FWD and RWD cars which were stranded in conditions I drove through with minimal or no drama at all. It earned me several hundred dollars tonight on Uber thanks to its capabilities.

10/10, worthy of WRC hoonage. Not at all a joke or an exaggeration.
[Flame suit on]

 

I agree, Praxis. I bought my 2009 Fit Sport about 3 weeks ago on a Saturday. The 16 inches of snow that dumped in Kentucky on Monday was no joke. However, I didn't want to leave my wife and children at home with no options in an emergency, so I left the Expedition at home and took the Fit. It handled the snow beautifully. Several cars were losing control and getting stranded everywhere. The Fit just kept scooting on by them all. I would start in 2nd gear to keep the torque lower at start off like the owner's manual says, and I never had a problem. I drove 70 miles that day and finally got stuck in a snow bank 50 yards from home. I dug me a path the next day and drove her the rest of the way. I am running some all season Hankooks that came with the car. I considered putting sand bags in the rear to help add weight, but thought that a hundred pounds wouldn't help that much in the long run. The car did great.

We just got dumped on again here in the Bluegrass, and I drove today without any problems.