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how slow is ur ge8?

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  #61  
Old 09-18-2011, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by SSMTEN
thank god for all the space back there huh?
Heck yeah! Twin mattress will fit. Btw
 
  #62  
Old 09-18-2011, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Jamy
Heck yeah! Twin mattress will fit. Btw
that was my next question! lol. good to know
 
  #63  
Old 09-18-2011, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by SSMTEN
that was my next question! lol. good to know
Of course bro
 
  #64  
Old 09-18-2011, 03:31 AM
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My problem is that I'm still driving my 10.5 to 60 fit like its the 6.8 to 60 fit it used to be. Leads to a lot of disappointment and shame. I used to be able to beat base 3 series, x3, x5, rsx-s, si, mazda 3 & 6, factory kit supercharged TC, etc. etc. like a sleeper ninja and now I'm just driving a grandpa's car. (there was even that time I pulled away from an 06 charger r/t on the highway (would have gotten raped from a dig though))

This engine is F'ing great and anyone who doesn't like it can go straight to hell. I love working on the L15A7, It's a pleasure. It is the climax of non-DI, slower spinning, SOHC engines - you will not find free or easy power to extract NA because the thing is just so damn optimized for what it is. There will not be more highly optimized SOHC engines than this for many many years, if ever. You could think of this as the last engine of an era because everything from here on out is going to be DOHC DI. You might be able to shift the power band around a little or make it spin faster but that's about it. Everything about this engine is designed to be serviced with the utmost ease (except the crank pulley F*** the crank pulley) only problem is, nobody is doing anything major enough to even appreciate how great it is, for what it is.

It's been 3 years and it's still all the same boring Intake Exhaust Suspension same ole same ole.
 

Last edited by Lyon[Nightroad]; 09-18-2011 at 05:01 AM.
  #65  
Old 09-18-2011, 03:32 AM
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Except now its getting colder outside so I'm seeing 10.3 to 60. OMG THE POWA!!!!!!
 
  #66  
Old 09-18-2011, 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Lyon[Nightroad]
Except now its getting colder outside so I'm seeing 10.3 to 60. OMG THE POWA!!!!!!
Gah, I feel bad for the automagics... 10.3 is just bad.
 
  #67  
Old 09-18-2011, 04:59 AM
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Talking

Originally Posted by SSMTEN
that was my next question! lol. good to know
Ergonomically i have found it is best with back seat UP. You sit in middle of bench, she straddles, and well, you know the rest. With back seat down the whole ordeal is just too cumbersome.
 
  #68  
Old 09-18-2011, 05:20 AM
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A
Originally Posted by Jamy
Gah, I feel bad for the automagics... 10.3 is just bad.
I Still would not trade for MT. It's all in the launch. MT Launches better but our 3rd gear is boss, 3rd is from 55-100. We hit 6000-6800 rpms twice. At 85mph you are spinning at 6800 rpms, then the torque converter locks up solid, rpms drop back down to about 6000 and you are catapulted up to 100 mph at 7000 rpms (3rd gear redline is 7k). I would bet the AT and MT are exactly the same time from 60-100.

Although its a skilless art, AT runs are beatifully consistent, when I hold the brake, press the gas down, and then release the brake, I know exactly how fast I am going to get to 60 every time without fail. Either my car was faster than the one next to me or not, I could make no excuses about bad launches or missed shifts, but also meant that if I pulled up next to a 328igroup I was going to win every single time. Anyway, I could go on and n about how much i love the AT and how well it responds to power but its still slow as crap off the line NA but on the highway NA it has a wealth of passing power and you never feel underpowered.
 
  #69  
Old 09-18-2011, 05:22 AM
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there is alot of room for 2 people in the back when there are no seats back there....
 
  #70  
Old 09-18-2011, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Lyon[Nightroad]
A

I Still would not trade for MT. It's all in the launch. MT Launches better but our 3rd gear is boss, 3rd is from 55-100. We hit 6000-6800 rpms twice. At 85mph you are spinning at 6800 rpms, then the torque converter locks up solid, rpms drop back down to about 6000 and you are catapulted up to 100 mph at 7000 rpms (3rd gear redline is 7k). I would bet the AT and MT are exactly the same time from 60-100.

Although its a skilless art, AT runs are beatifully consistent, when I hold the brake, press the gas down, and then release the brake, I know exactly how fast I am going to get to 60 every time without fail. Either my car was faster than the one next to me or not, I could make no excuses about bad launches or missed shifts, but also meant that if I pulled up next to a 328igroup I was going to win every single time. Anyway, I could go on and n about how much i love the AT and how well it responds to power but its still slow as crap off the line NA but on the highway NA it has a wealth of passing power and you never feel underpowered.

Are we driving the same car? Mine's a GE8 auto. I'd call it "peppy" off the line with its high gear ratios in 1st and 2nd and its willing TC but by the time it gets to 45MPH it no longer qualifies for "peppy." At this point it's "pooped."
 
  #71  
Old 09-18-2011, 01:49 PM
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Gotta love Lyon and his experience and his build up thread! No out of the ass talk!
 
  #72  
Old 09-18-2011, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Lyon[Nightroad]
A

I Still would not trade for MT. It's all in the launch. MT Launches better but our 3rd gear is boss, 3rd is from 55-100. We hit 6000-6800 rpms twice. At 85mph you are spinning at 6800 rpms, then the torque converter locks up solid, rpms drop back down to about 6000 and you are catapulted up to 100 mph at 7000 rpms (3rd gear redline is 7k). I would bet the AT and MT are exactly the same time from 60-100.
That's some ish right there! 3rd for me is 45-70 if I remember correctly. I quit looking at the speed when I shift. Just tell my the engine tone. But that's pretty damn awesome!
 
  #73  
Old 09-18-2011, 02:27 PM
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ya 3rd goes to about 68 mph on my mt... i race every1 on the freeway in 4th... its not very fast till 70+
 
  #74  
Old 09-18-2011, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve244
Are we driving the same car? Mine's a GE8 auto. I'd call it "peppy" off the line with its high gear ratios in 1st and 2nd and its willing TC but by the time it gets to 45MPH it no longer qualifies for "peppy." At this point it's "pooped."
3rd from about 55-to 65 ish is a bit of a dog and you do need to be in sport mode with it held in 3rd gear to make it to 100, if you aren't paddle shifting 3rd will only pull you to 95 mph. But on from 65-100 you should be in a very good place in the power band. To be fair even though I am NA, I am running about 3.5 degrees extra timimg below 5800 rpms and 5 degrees extra timing above 5800 and Im also running a tad leaner than stock. Other than that my only mod is my DIY intake.
 
  #75  
Old 09-18-2011, 06:06 PM
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Spark angle will have a huge effect on torque production, FWIW. It directly determines where cylinder pressure peaks.
 
  #76  
Old 09-19-2011, 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by DiamondStarMonsters
Spark angle will have a huge effect on torque production, FWIW. It directly determines where cylinder pressure peaks.

Here's my bizzaro question: why would the stock ecu pull/retard timing after 5800 rpms? In the complete absence of knock the stock ecu will give you 22.5 dbtdc from 3000-5800 rpms but only 20 dbtdc from 5800-7000 rpms. That makes no sense at all! Just to maintain the same level of torque across the power band you have to advance timing with speed but instead it does the opposite. It also richens up a little, stock, after 5800rpms. This explains why the GE dynos all start to dive around 5800 rpms. Even if volumetric efficiency goes down thats even more reason to advance timing since a less compressed (filled) charge causes a slower flame kernel expansion rate.

Speaking of which, thats how I figured out how to advance timing with the fic. I realized thay even though the FIC can't advance timing, it can clamp my MAP. So if I tell the stock ECU thay there is only 12.5 psi in the manifold it will advance timing and pull fuel in response. So what I do is clamp more or less MAP to advance the timing and then add the subtracted fuel back on post stock ecu in the FIC.

To your question fitisbamf, you need an FIC or equivalent to advance timing. Theres no practical manual way to do it, this isnt like turning a distributor cap.
 
  #77  
Old 09-19-2011, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Lyon[Nightroad]
Here's my bizzaro question: why would the stock ecu pull/retard timing after 5800 rpms? In the complete absence of knock the stock ecu will give you 22.5 dbtdc from 3000-5800 rpms but only 20 dbtdc from 5800-7000 rpms. That makes no sense at all! Just to maintain the same level of torque across the power band you have to advance timing with speed but instead it does the opposite. It also richens up a little, stock, after 5800rpms. This explains why the GE dynos all start to dive around 5800 rpms.
With engine noise at high RPM knock detectors don't work. Honda is protecting the engine at higher RPMs.
 
  #78  
Old 09-19-2011, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Lyon[Nightroad]
Here's my bizzaro question: why would the stock ecu pull/retard timing after 5800 rpms? In the complete absence of knock the stock ecu will give you 22.5 dbtdc from 3000-5800 rpms but only 20 dbtdc from 5800-7000 rpms. That makes no sense at all! Just to maintain the same level of torque across the power band you have to advance timing with speed but instead it does the opposite. It also richens up a little, stock, after 5800rpms. This explains why the GE dynos all start to dive around 5800 rpms. Even if volumetric efficiency goes down thats even more reason to advance timing since a less compressed (filled) charge causes a slower flame kernel expansion rate.

Speaking of which, thats how I figured out how to advance timing with the fic. I realized thay even though the FIC can't advance timing, it can clamp my MAP. So if I tell the stock ECU thay there is only 12.5 psi in the manifold it will advance timing and pull fuel in response. So what I do is clamp more or less MAP to advance the timing and then add the subtracted fuel back on post stock ecu in the FIC.

To your question fitisbamf, you need an FIC or equivalent to advance timing. Theres no practical manual way to do it, this isnt like turning a distributor cap.


curses i was hopin for a cam angle sensor or something.... damn no free hp for me! haha any other tips or tricks u got to getting power out the l15, i beat a v8 chevy 1500 (modded idk whats done but it was loud lowered and on rims, not really crazy modded but the guy likes his trucks???) off the line 1-3rd!
 
  #79  
Old 09-19-2011, 11:31 AM
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pull the l15 lump and put a sbc in.
 
  #80  
Old 09-19-2011, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by fitisbamf
curses i was hopin for a cam angle sensor or something.... damn no free hp for me! haha any other tips or tricks u got to getting power out the l15, i beat a v8 chevy 1500 (modded idk whats done but it was loud lowered and on rims, not really crazy modded but the guy likes his trucks???) off the line 1-3rd!
That doesn't even make sense. Before even seeing the truck his torque #'s should slaughter you off the line. Even though his mods (like most rednecks) probably hurt his performance so idk. I know the '71 6.2l diesel my dad has will kill me off the line. As I'm sure Lyons or DSM will tell you. Not much in the way of free hp in this think. Honda's back asswards ECU sees too that. Plus it's a small displacement NA engine. Large gains are only gonna be seen under FI.
 


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