Buying a Fit and need advice
Buying a Fit and need advice
We're nearing a final decision on buying a 2012 Fit and I find myself obsessed over whether I'm getting a good deal or if I should keep pushing on the local Honda dealers. I've been pitting dealers against each other and have this offer on the table.
2012 Manual base (with splash guards)
MSRP: 15,200
TTR/Fees: 1,300
OTD: 16,500
So, fit freaks, good deal? great deal? ok deal?
2012 Manual base (with splash guards)
MSRP: 15,200
TTR/Fees: 1,300
OTD: 16,500
So, fit freaks, good deal? great deal? ok deal?
That's ballpark to what I paid last week in Nashville before taxes, etc.
I thought it was good enough--time involved in maybe getting a lower price was more valuable that the odds of knocking off another $100 or 2 . . .
Of course, YMMV.
Of course, YMMV.
Don't know what your sales tax is, but seems like a god deal. I bought a base 2010 M/T for 16,000 OTD in March of 2010. Sticker (and standard features) has gone up $500 since then so I would consider that a good deal. Of course, now that the 2013's are arriving, you could try to use that to your advantage. Ps. what color?
We're nearing a final decision on buying a 2012 Fit and I find myself obsessed over whether I'm getting a good deal or if I should keep pushing on the local Honda dealers. I've been pitting dealers against each other and have this offer on the table.
2012 Manual base (with splash guards)
MSRP: 15,200
TTR/Fees: 1,300
OTD: 16,500
So, fit freaks, good deal? great deal? ok deal?
2012 Manual base (with splash guards)
MSRP: 15,200
TTR/Fees: 1,300
OTD: 16,500
So, fit freaks, good deal? great deal? ok deal?
Paying MSRP is always not the best deal, but nowdays the factories have wiggled the difference betwseen MSRP and 'invoice' to the point that on cars in the 15k range don't have much to 'work' with. The most you could expect is perhaps $150 less than MSRP.
My concern is with the usual ADP items; just what is the individual item costs in your TTR/fees? $1200 sounds quite handsome even if you're paying cash and owe the tax on the whole price. Likewise, license, tagsd, etc, and 'dealer whacks'.
PS ADP is 'additional dealer profit'. In other words, charges much greater than the actual cost to pad the deaslers wallet..
Lets see state tax is $15200x.065 = $988 buying with no trade in
Dealer ADP is 250. At least OHIO recognized fraud when they saw it.
Thats $1238. I seem to remember the tax is collected against a maximum of $350 but that was a while ago.
Again, whats the breakdown?
I just got the same car (but white) for $15,775 including delivery charge. I just sent an email to each and every Honda dealer in the area and informed them that I would be paying cash with no trade. Then told them I would take the best offer. Took me four days (no in person haggling) to work out the best deal and only 3.5 months to get the car delivered from Japan...it was worth the wait. The car (so far) has exceeded my expectations. Good luck!
Paying MSRP is always not the best deal, but nowdays the factories have wiggled the difference betwseen MSRP and 'invoice' to the point that on cars in the 15k range don't have much to 'work' with. The most you could expect is perhaps $150 less than MSRP.
My concern is with the usual ADP items; just what is the individual item costs in your TTR/fees? $1200 sounds quite handsome even if you're paying cash and owe the tax on the whole price. Likewise, license, tagsd, etc, and 'dealer whacks'.
PS ADP is 'additional dealer profit'. In other words, charges much greater than the actual cost to pad the deaslers wallet..
My concern is with the usual ADP items; just what is the individual item costs in your TTR/fees? $1200 sounds quite handsome even if you're paying cash and owe the tax on the whole price. Likewise, license, tagsd, etc, and 'dealer whacks'.
PS ADP is 'additional dealer profit'. In other words, charges much greater than the actual cost to pad the deaslers wallet..
In this case though, 15,200 is 900 less than the MSRP (including delivery charge). So 16,500 OTD, financed properly, is a solid deal.
Are you sure you didn't buy a Nissan?
Below MSRP is a deal unless you're getting taken on the tradein. If there's a trade-in, that's actually where the dealer can make money; the new car price is so standardized now that the only substantial wiggle room is on the car that THEY are buying from YOU. 
Also, someone said they had a 2012 CVT. Not in the US, you don't. 5-spd auto or manual (CVT in other markets).

Also, someone said they had a 2012 CVT. Not in the US, you don't. 5-spd auto or manual (CVT in other markets).
Better price than mine. I paid over $17k OTD for my '12 base MT. But I think sales taxes are higher out west, maybe. Plus I had to pay a $100 "freeway fee" to pay for the new freeway, which didn't help.
look up your purchase on truecar.com
But you have to interpret the results properly.
You don't want to be in the "average" part of the bell curve.
You need to be looking at the chart from the perspective of a commodity, where you want to be on the far left to the lowest price.
Anyway, agree with the others, when you get close enough, pull the trigger.
Especially if there are other factors other than lowest price which are worth your time-such as dealer being close so you don't have to make a huge trip to pickup your car or you can go back for any issues; hassling you over paperwork, and perhaps you want to go back to them later for service and form a relationship.
Don't burn a relationshipcard just to save a few pennies in the short term
But you have to interpret the results properly.
You don't want to be in the "average" part of the bell curve.
You need to be looking at the chart from the perspective of a commodity, where you want to be on the far left to the lowest price.
Anyway, agree with the others, when you get close enough, pull the trigger.
Especially if there are other factors other than lowest price which are worth your time-such as dealer being close so you don't have to make a huge trip to pickup your car or you can go back for any issues; hassling you over paperwork, and perhaps you want to go back to them later for service and form a relationship.
Don't burn a relationshipcard just to save a few pennies in the short term
Thanks for the responses, everyone.
I should've clarified that there isn't a trade-in and I'll be paying cash so I won't get screwed on the financing end. So all in all I think I'm doing alright. Another dealer further away offered to take another $100 off but since I can use the CC and get $160 cash back at the first dealer I'm sticking with them. Anyway we should be picking it up on Saturday - this is after a month of comparison shopping and two test drives at different dealers. Manual Base fits are getting scarce in our area and I figured there wouldn't be much wiggle room on the 2013's once they start to arrive.
Now I just need to sell our 99 civic so we don't have 3 cars on the insurance.
I should've clarified that there isn't a trade-in and I'll be paying cash so I won't get screwed on the financing end. So all in all I think I'm doing alright. Another dealer further away offered to take another $100 off but since I can use the CC and get $160 cash back at the first dealer I'm sticking with them. Anyway we should be picking it up on Saturday - this is after a month of comparison shopping and two test drives at different dealers. Manual Base fits are getting scarce in our area and I figured there wouldn't be much wiggle room on the 2013's once they start to arrive.
Now I just need to sell our 99 civic so we don't have 3 cars on the insurance.
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