Hello -

I am new to the forum and in the market for a base model A/T Fit. I initially was set on getting the 2012 base fit and have test drive, done research, started quote-wars with a few dealers (though not much below 16.5k), etc... I have found out, as have others, that negotiating on the Fit isnt the easiest thing given their relatively slight margin and high demand. Even so, I have decided to wait until end of year to buy new, unless something good came along in terms of specials, or a great deal on a used.....

WELL, I am in contact with a private owner who is selling his 2010 base model A/T becuase he is taking out a mortgage and needs to. The car has one owner, clean title, extremely clean car, and ONLY 16k miles. He has copies of the service records done at the dealership at 8k and then again six days ago, so it is definately maintained. It also appears to be in great condidtion.

I am meeting him to see the car in person and view the maintenance records/recommedations from the last visit on 7/20. I think a fair offer would be between 13k-13750 based on low mileage and clean title.

My first question is that, given the most recent service was at the dealership and should contain any recommendations, I don't think it is worth paying the $120 for a pre-purchase inspection, do you people agree? Also, for those of you who bought the 2010 (or similar used) over a brand new 2012, are there any regrets. I really think I should be fine without CC/Audio controls/keyless entry and saving $3k from new price may be worth it?

I realize these questions are long-winded and more a matter of opinion and preference, but I was hoping some of you could share yours? I don't know anyone with a Fit so I thought this may be a good place to ask.

I appreciate any responses, thank you!

 

2012 Fits have additional sound deadening material to keep out road/engine noise.

I'm not big on buying used, so I would be pretty biased on this topic...

 

I wouldn't have bought new if it weren't for the cash for clunkers program back in 2009.

I think buying used makes sense... it's just not a clear cut choice for the fit due to several reasons. If you can get a good deal on the '10, I say go for it.

 

That is what I am thinking... It seems that the added features on the 2012 wouldn't be worth the additional at least 3k in cost. Plus 16k miles is damn near we still and with dealership service records it seems to make sense.

I would just HATE to always think I shouldve bought new!! With the little differences though, I doubt I'd even care in 3-5 years, I plan on running it till it dies.

 

$3000 for a 2012 vs 2010? I would sure buy the 2012.......just for the piece of mind.
if there was $5000 difference I would buy the 2010

you are getting 3 yrs warranty........plus a brand new car...the 2012 fit has nicer seats....rides quieter then the 09-11 and has VSA
I would take the 2012 and run...as them to throw in all season mats and a cargo tray too

 

3 grand....... Do it. The 2012 has sound deadening which from what I've heard, actually makes a big difference. And for the 3k, 2 more years of bumper to bumper, and dont have to deal with anyone else's wear (seats, scratches, dents, dings)

 

Go for the new one. Dealers mark used fits up to about the same as new. Actually the dealer that I traded my '09 to for my '11 gave me 13k for it (8k miles) then they marked it up to $17k. You wont regret getting a new one.

That price don't sound bad for a used one though.

 

Just my little piece of advice from driving Fits today and finally deciding to purchase new:

Driving an '07 and the '12 was like a world of difference. The '07 had about 8k miles on it and it was a marked difference between that and the '12. The '12 seemed to ride better, as well as saw a substantial improvement in the road noise reduction. Plus the overall fit and finish of the '12 felt much improved over the '07, based on approximately 45 minute test drives. On top of all this, the '07 was $15.3k, versus a brand new Sport manual (2013) being $17.6k. It just felt like the wiser decision to go new, as five years from now, I'm not going to be thinking about how I could have paid $2300 less.

$3000 is only about an extra $600 per year over five years.

 

Thanks for the replies. The used 2010 I may purchase is from an owner, not a dealer and we've agreed to a price of 13.7k if I'll buy it. Again, only 16k miles on it and routine maintenance done at dealership twice, last time being 6 days ago and report shows no problems.

Against my strong desire for a brand new one, I may spring for the used and save myself the dough. It looks brand new anyway and alread has tint and all weather mats.

 

Lol. Why ask then.

 

Don't know about where you live, but here there's no sales tax on used cars from a private seller. That's a bunch of money you can save buying used.

You can get an extended warranty from Honda (check online, Bernardi?) as long as it's still under the 36k/3yr factory warranty. I don't advocate these, but it might be worth some peace of mind (if you don't pay too much for one).

Look for replaced body panels; the missing factory labels are a clue. Look for resprays; imperfections such as sags, fish-eyes, and orange peel are clues.

Get a carfax report.

 

I'm sorry.. I guess? I asked for advice and got some great replies with honest opinions. Had I know my decision I wouldn't have asked.. Not sure how to respond to your post besides I won't ask again?

 

With the used values of these cars, it's a no brainer to buy new. You invest 3 more grand today, you DO get it back in the long run. It's not like buying a shitty ford, where you buy a brand new one, sneeze on it and it's now worth 4 grand less since its not on the lot.

When I bought my 12, there was a 09 on the lot (3 years old) with 32k for 15,800.... Aka, almost exactly what I bought my 12 for

 

Are you taking out a loan on the used car or paying it off right away? the Percentage rate you get on the vehicle may make up a good difference in cost between the used and new. Often times you can get 1.9% or 2.9% on new but the bank may only offer in the 5.9% or 7.9% range. 3% or 5% can make up a large sum of money in the long run making your savings less than what you see now.

figure out the followiong:
Cost of each vehicle (you have this pretty much) - Think about the amount of down-payment as well on the new vehicle.
Interest rate for each vehicle (New is almost always better)
Number of years of the loan.
Put them in the loan calculator to see what the difference in your final cost of the vehicle is.
Car Loan Calculator ~ Auto Loan Payment Calculator

For example:
$13,500 at 7.9% over 6 years is a hair under $17,000
$16,500 (Plus 6% sales Tax = $17,500) at 1.9% over 6 years is $18,500 (If your Out the door price [tax included] is $16,500, that makes your total payment $17,500 over the 6 years)
- This makes the $3000 difference only $500 in the end.

Food for thought.
~SB

 

I purchased a 2010 Honda Fit Sport A/T with 37K miles yesterday. I was up in the air about new and used and found that I could go with Honda Certified where they recondition items past a certain wear limit. They also include a 7 year 100K drive-train warranty and a 12/12 bumper to bumper.

I ended up buying an extended bumper to bumper for 7/100k warranty and 30K worth of routine maintenance which includes oil changes, tire rotations, but not major services for around $800. I brought the asking price at the dealer from 15,490 to $15,390 with my costco car buying service (which applies to used certified cars too). I wiggled further down $15,060 and they will throw in a full tank of gas. Looking at the receipts from the dealer, they put $400 into the car 2 weeks ago. Oil change, air filter, wiper blades, tire rotation, battery load check, emissions, etc.

With buying from a dealer - there was a NC 3% sales tax, 499 admin fee, and of course registration, title, etc for about $120. That would apply for a new car too of course.

This route of used certified gave me peace of mind which I wanted in the first place and also dealer support until 03/05/2017 (7 years after initial delivery date) or 100K which ever comes first. Genuine Honda Parts too. Even if nothing goes wrong - I think the $800 is worth the assurance in my opinion. In the end I think I ended up saving a few thousand dollars over new (at the expense of 37 thousand miles of wear and depreciation on the car) and there are no drastic changes between 2010 and 2012.

Itsnez - I also think you can purchase aftermarket warranties too so you do not have to go through a dealer to do that. With the base Fit for 2012 having more sound deadening, that may be enough to sway you the extra couple of grand to buy new. Not sure on your financing but the rate would likely be lower on new too so consider that. Good luck with your purchase and let us know how it turns out!

 

Thanks for the replies.

After all that back and forth, I found out today the previous owner was leasing and it would require extra paperwork as b of a doesn't do third party buyout.

SO.. I have a price of 16,150 for a white base with automatic, 17,740 otd in California which seems like a good deal. Im going for it, it's only 2800 more than the used one I was ready to buy.

Again, I appreciate the constructive comments and it did help sway me towards new.

 

No such luck in Kalifornia. You pay "use tax" to the DMV when you transfer it private party at the same rate you would have paid sales tax to a dealer.

 

Hey there,

I paid around a grand over what you are agreeing to purchase your 2010 base for (mine is also base automatic). That is OTD pricing with tax and it had less then 9k miles on it... You can find better. Buying certified used comes with the 3yr/36k plus another 1yr/12k for just under 50k total bumper to bumper coverage.

If you're not in a rush ... Keep looking. Great car though can't go wrong either way. Good luck!

Sean