I believe they could be effective on a car with other shortcomings addressed. I doubt they'd be of much assistance when crashing on a damp highway.

And they look cool. Which is the most important part in deciding to purchase them.

 

I have one of these panels on my Miata added this year. The main reason I got it was the plastic panel was beginning to fall apart. No other benefits listed besides protection and airflow. Mazda Miata/MX-5 Stainless Steel Engine Shield by Cobalt

 

oh, ok, so you admit you just pretend to be. cool. then we're in the same plane. i was worried that some causian guy living in japan suddenly thought he gets special treatment or something.

 

555's Fit is probably fast next to mine. Dat higher final drive + lightweight wheels/tyres + extra 18 ps + gutted + cool J's stuff = race car.

 

How would I be pretending, ohhh because I use my vehicle for more than A to B, one that was not specifically designed to be used out on circuit? What a joke you are. Typical of the many that plague the Internet. Think the word you were looking for is Caucasian and why would I think I get special treatment for deciding to live in Japan versus where I was born? How ignorant is that?

Back on topic.

Sorry OP, but you can lay blame on myself and a few others for the tangent.

 

OHLINS will be more than happy to build you one upon request


back to topic... after the trip to nj/nyc... I have my concerns too. it was brutal and my mid-pipe... I was leaving sparks.

 

that's right, because race car.

 

yah, thanks but that's really not needed on my crappy weather dd.

ok back to topic. im done here.

 

and I'm with 555 on the "not half-assing" things.

 

i am too, but not with the GE's. the GE's are pretty good the way they are. just needs slight adjustment to make it mine.

 

it really boils down to what you want your FIT to be... if one wants to build as reliable daily or to build it to track specs or to build it as a show car or whatever else reason. you buy the parts according to what you are trying to build

 

Some people make me wish I had more middle fingers.

 

I can't believe you dbags are actually dogging 555 for believing that its possible to take his lighter/better handing car to the track and manage to have a good time (and probably even be as quick or quicker than a lot of higher powered cars in the process). You should give your internet typing fingers a rest and try out a local track day or solo event and come back to us with a clue.

 

1st thing.
BC racing apperently makes oil overs for fits. Theyre adjustable dampening, and rode awesome in my room mates 240sx. Hes sold tons of them and bought a few sets himself.

2. Im going low because I think it looks cool/ the stiffer ride is fun in corners. Not putting them on to race. I have my 85' JDM toyota levin for go fast, corner hard. Its 2200lbs wet and I got room to shrink. The fit is a daily.

3. Good to know the oil pan is high. Ill still probably pony up for some kind of belly pan though. The fuel economy would be nice too as im two weeks into my 2012 sport and already have 3000kms on it lol

thanks for the info guys.

 

Who is? I think Kenchan is being light hearted and misinterpreted, I know I'm not, etc.

 

nothing wrong with making your car look good. GL with your project.

 

Thanks! that was a good constructive post!

Now if you all still feel like bickering about go fast bits figure out where I can get my hands on a trd dry sump for my 4ag lolol ;p

 

I might be able to reach out and find one for you or put you in contact with someone who can. Won't be cheap. HMU in PM

 

Most people just do the mod for looks. To actually do it so that it works at a track takes more money and effort than they really want to do.

 

I have a mess of bits and pieces that have made my car downright scary at times and a lot of fun after my pulse rate goes back to what it's supposed to be... I have Buddy Club Coilovers set up close to stock height with no spring pre load and minimal damping... With Goodyear GT all weather tires it's a struggle to stay in the drivers seat on one wild down hill S turn I charge through.... Decreasing travel and increasing damping wouldn't let my tires maintain road contact well enough on bumpy curves to be able to avoiding sliding off of the road... Instead of dropping the whole car to lower the C of G, I removed the back seats... I may in time install lower mounted lighter weight front seats, but ground clearance and enough wheel travel to follow the contours of the road surface requires a decent amount of height from the ground that you don't need maximum damping adjustment or spring stiffness in order to avoid grounding out when going over a bump that you'd hardly notice at 45 or 55 MPH but will have you airborne at twice those speeds..I'm not talking about on a track but during those mad moments when on a little traveled back road when no one is around... I don't need ground or fender contact episodes causing me to end up out in the trees for months before my car with me in it is found by rednecks out hunting for wild hogs.