Notes on trailer hitch install
Notes on trailer hitch install
Hi,
I've just installed a Draw-Tite hitch (from eTrailer, $118 plus shipping) on my 2012 Base Fit. Not terribly hard, but there are a couple of gotchas:
Others have mentioned that, although eTrailer's install video says you have to cut away part of the driver-side plastic shroud, you in fact don't have to. Just push it aside during the install and push it back after. I removed the shroud entirely just to get it out of the way of the torque wrench--three plastic pop fasterners (only two go back) and two philips screws. Keep the redundant plastic pop fastener for a spare.
What the install video shows too quickly--I missed it--is that, at least on the 2012 Base, there's a heat shield above the muffler. There is a note on the site that mentions this and says to remove/modify this shield, but you don't have to; it's plastic, and you can simply push the edge of the passenger-side hitch mount under the edge of the heat shield.
What the install video shows also too quickly--maybe because it's obvous to a normally competent person, but I just didn't see it coming--is that you have to drop the muffler to install the two passenger-side hitch-mounting bolts but that you have to raise/reconnect the muffler before you mount the hitch. Stupidly, I didn't, so because the muffler was then hanging beneath the new-mounted hitch, I couldn't raise it back up through the hitch to reconnect the rubber muffler mounts. Doh! So I had to remove the nicely mounted-and-torqued hitch, raise/reconnect the muffler, then reinstall the hitch.
The reconnected/raised muffler then partially blocks the forward bolt and nut, making it difficult to get at to tighten and impossible to get at with a torque wrench; so once the hitch was installed, I then had to re-disconnect the muffler to get enough room to tighten/torque the nuts. The video shows the mechanic pushing the muffler up with the hitch beneath it to mount the passenger-side of the hitch. It would help here to have a second pair of hands available.
Still worth doing, but not quite as simple as it's made out to be. They give it a 4-out-of-10 degree of difficulty. I give it a 5.
I'm going to write a separate note about the wiring; the connections themselves are simple, but I can't figure out how to remove the plastic in order to hide the new wiring beneath it.
GaryK
PS--
I don't know about the Curt. I just looked at the installaton video (http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc...eid=2012300235). Because of all the drilling and sheet-metal cutting, it looks a bit more complicated then the Draw-Tite install (http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc...eid=2012208568), but to my untrained eye the Curt also looks more secure because of that third mount point that exends toward the front of the Fit. The Draw-Tite has only two mount points.
Some notes:
Unless you're very skinny or have access to a lift, to raise the rear end you'll need something similar to these:
http://compare.ebay.com/like/280620215414?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&va r=sbar
Also, a can of silicone spray will make it much easier to remove/reinstall the rubber muffler mounts.
Lastly, installing the hitch is doable by one person but a little awkward. At some points--specifically when you're trying to bolt up one end of the hitch and the other endis hanging down--it will be convenient to have a second person available just to hold up the unsupported end.
I've just installed a Draw-Tite hitch (from eTrailer, $118 plus shipping) on my 2012 Base Fit. Not terribly hard, but there are a couple of gotchas:
Others have mentioned that, although eTrailer's install video says you have to cut away part of the driver-side plastic shroud, you in fact don't have to. Just push it aside during the install and push it back after. I removed the shroud entirely just to get it out of the way of the torque wrench--three plastic pop fasterners (only two go back) and two philips screws. Keep the redundant plastic pop fastener for a spare.
What the install video shows too quickly--I missed it--is that, at least on the 2012 Base, there's a heat shield above the muffler. There is a note on the site that mentions this and says to remove/modify this shield, but you don't have to; it's plastic, and you can simply push the edge of the passenger-side hitch mount under the edge of the heat shield.
What the install video shows also too quickly--maybe because it's obvous to a normally competent person, but I just didn't see it coming--is that you have to drop the muffler to install the two passenger-side hitch-mounting bolts but that you have to raise/reconnect the muffler before you mount the hitch. Stupidly, I didn't, so because the muffler was then hanging beneath the new-mounted hitch, I couldn't raise it back up through the hitch to reconnect the rubber muffler mounts. Doh! So I had to remove the nicely mounted-and-torqued hitch, raise/reconnect the muffler, then reinstall the hitch.

The reconnected/raised muffler then partially blocks the forward bolt and nut, making it difficult to get at to tighten and impossible to get at with a torque wrench; so once the hitch was installed, I then had to re-disconnect the muffler to get enough room to tighten/torque the nuts. The video shows the mechanic pushing the muffler up with the hitch beneath it to mount the passenger-side of the hitch. It would help here to have a second pair of hands available.
Still worth doing, but not quite as simple as it's made out to be. They give it a 4-out-of-10 degree of difficulty. I give it a 5.
I'm going to write a separate note about the wiring; the connections themselves are simple, but I can't figure out how to remove the plastic in order to hide the new wiring beneath it.
GaryK
PS--
I don't know about the Curt. I just looked at the installaton video (http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc...eid=2012300235). Because of all the drilling and sheet-metal cutting, it looks a bit more complicated then the Draw-Tite install (http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc...eid=2012208568), but to my untrained eye the Curt also looks more secure because of that third mount point that exends toward the front of the Fit. The Draw-Tite has only two mount points.
Some notes:
Unless you're very skinny or have access to a lift, to raise the rear end you'll need something similar to these:
http://compare.ebay.com/like/280620215414?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&va r=sbar
Also, a can of silicone spray will make it much easier to remove/reinstall the rubber muffler mounts.
Lastly, installing the hitch is doable by one person but a little awkward. At some points--specifically when you're trying to bolt up one end of the hitch and the other endis hanging down--it will be convenient to have a second person available just to hold up the unsupported end.
Last edited by gkarasik; Sep 11, 2012 at 11:09 AM. Reason: wanted to put everything in a single post
Good tips on the install. I'm planning on installing a hitch on mine in the next month or so, so this is good info. I'll probably end up going with the Curt hitch though because I want to eventually install an axle back exhaust and it looks like the Curt would have less chance of interfering with an aftermarket exhaust. Also, it doesn't appear that the Curt hitch wraps around the factory exhaust like the hidden hitch, so maybe it would be an easier install other than having to do a little drilling?
-Dustin
-Dustin
Good tips on the install. I'm planning on installing a hitch on mine in the next month or so, so this is good info. I'll probably end up going with the Curt hitch though because I want to eventually install an axle back exhaust and it looks like the Curt would have less chance of interfering with an aftermarket exhaust. Also, it doesn't appear that the Curt hitch wraps around the factory exhaust like the hidden hitch, so maybe it would be an easier install other than having to do a little drilling?
-Dustin
-Dustin
Some notes:
Unless you're very skinny or have access to a lift, to raise the rear end you'll need something similar to these:
PAIR OF HD STEEL METAL AUTO CAR VEHICLE LIFT TIRE RAMPS on eBay!
Also, a can of silicone spray will make it much easier to remove/reinstall the rubber muffler mounts.
Lastly, installing the hitch is doable by one person but a little awkward. At some points--specifically when you're trying to bolt up one end of the hitch and the other end is hanging down--it will be convenient to have a second person available just to hold up the unsupported end.
GaryK
Last edited by gkarasik; Sep 11, 2012 at 11:35 AM.
This might be a good site for future reference:
Largo, FL Trailer Hitch - 5th Wheel Hitch - Trailer Parts
Largo, FL Trailer Hitch - 5th Wheel Hitch - Trailer Parts
Curt
I ordered the Curt. Only 1 hole to drill which is nothing.
I kinda wish it was higher, like the Draw one.......
Bottom Line: Their concept is Much sturdier/well engineered/stronger. And installation is really simple and a lot easier than the other one.
Really GREAT site to order anything related: http://ETrailer.com .......awesome site layout/usability. Paypal Payment too.
z
I kinda wish it was higher, like the Draw one.......
Bottom Line: Their concept is Much sturdier/well engineered/stronger. And installation is really simple and a lot easier than the other one.
Really GREAT site to order anything related: http://ETrailer.com .......awesome site layout/usability. Paypal Payment too.
z
Last edited by Zardiw; Sep 21, 2018 at 01:57 PM.
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