just checked the rear axle is the same from 2009 to 2013 for Fit SPORT...
so no bushing changes here too...

and since spring are the same, only shocks change

2010
Front Left Shocks:51621-TK6-A02
Front Right Shocks:51611-TK6-A02
Rear Shocks:52610-TK6-A03

2012
Front Left Shocks:51621-TK6-A51
Front Right Shocks:51611-TK6-A51
Rear Shocks:52610-TK6-A51

then the main culprit should be the shocks...
most likely the 2012 shocks had less damping power (most likely in compression and rebound)
compare to the 2010 shocks,
which mean if you put higher spring rate after market spring (like swift),
the car would be bouncy
(2012 shocks will not have enough rebound damping power to control the swift spring return from compression)...
I think with swift and 2012 shocks, the car handling would still improve due to harder spring rate,
and lower center of gravity...
but then I guess it would be more bouncy than stocks spring and shocks combo...

so in this case if you just want to get back to 2010 handling (not improve from 2010 handling),
the 2010 shocks should be the best solution, and to save cost you need to install them yourself.
but at least you need to spent alignment too and while you do this, buy SPC camber bolt,
so you can have more flexibility in camber alignment at front too.

Those factory shocks (front and rear sets) will cost you around $450 total without shipping
(or you can buy them from your local dealer and ask them to match internet price)...
with alignment and camber bolt will cost at lest $650 to $700 (if you install the shocks your self).

that mean approximately a bit less then half the price of Full Bilstein coil over install (at around $1,500),
quite substantial different in cost...

so yes, I agree with Steve244,
if you just want to get back to 2010 handling, changing shocks to 2010 part might solved it
(as long as Honda do not discontinued the old stock and replacing them with new part # stock sold as direct replacement for old stock...)

 

OK, lets do the whole bag.
First, do you know if the previuos Fit was properly aligned, and speced. You could be seeing the difference between ill and new handling cars. That would be different.
Any actual handling laps to check times?
Now:
1. check that the chasis is square; that is the measurement front hub to rear hub of both sides (i.e. the wheelbase) of the car are the same.
And that the tread widtg front and rear are to spec, nit approxinmately. Take ito account the offset of the wheels if they aeren't OEM for your car. And yes check the camber on each wheel. minus 2 degrees is excellent but even zero one side and -2 deg the other will noticeably affect handling.
2. Check ride heights at all four corners to the fender flange. Note any deviation more than 1/4".
3. Measure the diagonal distance between front and rear wheels to be within 1/4". preferrably 1/8". No its not easy to do but is critical.
4. Check shock absober numbers on all four wheels and the colors on the sporings to see they match OEM. Somrtimes they don't.
5. Check the antiswar bars for installation and size.
6. Check your steering links and centering.

Once you have established your Fit should handle the way it should you can look for things like bad alignment, bad tire (a soft sidewall or a different brand tire is a disaster handling wise), or a bad suspension setup. Determing the location and setup on OEM susopensions gets a bit on the machine shop side but hopefully you found the difficulty with just the measurements of OE/M specs.

Once you've measured those come back and post them; there are several posters here who are well acquainted with what happens with your measurements. but first we have to know what it is now. Yes, we may need to know what changes when you sit in it.
cheers.
and good luck.

 

Fit's don't have shocks on all four corners they have rear shocks and front STRUT DAMPERS.

 

Thank you mister wizard.

Technically the fronts are McPherson Struts, not to be confused with run-of-the-mill struts. They have shock absorber cartridges, unless you're from England (or Japan) in which case feel free to call them dampers. You could call them McPherson Strut cartridges but that's a bit of a mouthful. Rears are dampers as well for what it's worth. Replacement shock absorber cartridges are available for the front McPherson struts or you can replace as a unit. It's much easier just to say "shocks" although "dampers" is almost as easy.

Now please don't call them coil-overs or I shall lecture you again.

 

yah, the fit's system is so basic we prefer to just use simple terms.

 

Why not?

 

You may, just not loud, he doesn't have the cred.

 

LOL for your edification straight from the HONDA REPAIR MANUAL

Front and Rear Suspension Component Location Index

You will note how HONDA itself calls them dampers. So I guess you are sooo much smarter than Honda when it comes to THEIR cars terminology?

Some of us like to be precise in the use of mechanical terminology when we give advice unlike you. That is the difference between amateurs like you and professionals like myself.

But please don't let me stop you from calling, mailing, emailing, telephoning, or telegraphing Honda and tell them that they are all wrong in their nomenclature for THEIR VEHICLE and STEVIE is correct. Let us know how that goes LOL.



So master equivocator show me where I EVER called them coilovers...........nope you can't just running your contrary mouth again.


LOL I will match my mechanical skills and advice against yours anytime you haven't even started on building cred because once you start you open your mouth and it drops back to zero over and over.

 

Totally irrelevant, but since your on the proper name for parts nazi roll, i remember one time at the junk yard i asked this random guy if i could borrow his cutters and he looked at me confused. So i reply you know dikes, wire cutters, diagonal pliers?? He literally started to scratch his head. When my homie said bro hes asking for snips. The momo goes aaaahhh. Here man. Im standing there baffled like wtf. You dont know wire cutters but snips. I know it was a stretch saying the proper name for the flipping tool but snips?! Ive never even heard of snips.

 

heh, you're a barrel of laughs. Yes the Honda shop manual describes them as dampers (including the rears, that you happily refer to as shocks). I suppose we should start calling the hood a bonnet, and mufflers become silencers.

 

Im on my phone. Whats the smily icon thing for "back to topic" :P

 

But really, aren't the topic police as annoying as grammar nazis and helpful "use search" comments? Not complaining, it's an excellent smiley. But without loud's nocturnal emissions and the fun derived from shoving his foot farther down his throat, this place would be pretty dull.

 

LMAO. Agreed

 

I like loud though. I find him go be very informative. Id say he knows his shit. Im a cert master tech and i fail with noob stuff all the time

 

LOL YOU get burned and thank me for it. This coming from the person who refuses to set his valve clearances "JUST BECAUSE" he thinks Hondas should be built to his specs and last forever. Yep that was great advice NOT.

You are reverting to your Seattle liberal edcuation again. You can't refute the FACT you were presented with so you revert to your training and start obfuscating, mis-directing, and the old standby changing the subject. Then fail at justifying your position. Nice try but we see through your efforts.

Somebody has to correct your failures when you TRY and give advice to other members. Call them what the freak you want in the privacy of your bedroom but if you try and fail at advising others use the correct terminology. And try again I didn't comment in any way shape or form on the rear of the vehicle or parts there in. Just another feeble attempt to change the subject and deflect blame from your failure.

What you should try just this once NA maybe for the rest of your life is growing a pair like a man step up and say you know what I screwed up and admit you were wrong for a change BUT NOOOO the contrairian Stevie will never do that he just changes the subject and starts his snarking like a little girl.

Your lack of any knowledge on motor vehicles is rearing it's ugly head one more time after time and your ignorance of the subject is just one more example of your being a novice.

So step aside and let the pros do it.

 

So you are telling us as a "certified tech" you would stroll up to the parts window and say "hey give me a set of front shocks for that Fit over there."

Seriously no for real you would use that terminology with your parts guys?

 

Depends on the guy and the part. But lol no ive never said i need front shocks. Have always specified for springs vs struts. I usually just ask for them to pull up the diagram and ill point out the part. It doesnt take much IMO to be certified. Just a test.

 

So im assuming you two have disagreed before on other threads?

 

stevie has been wrong before LOL. and he doesn't like me pointing it out.

 

Valves should be adjusted according to Honda's schedule. Not yours. You did enlighten me to the fact the exhaust valves recess over time causing the lash to be too tight, leading to burned exhaust valves. Thanks for that. But no, I'm not going to adjust them every 30K as you recommend. (link to the offending thread, pertinent post).

Is this really how the pros do it? I hope you washed your hands.

To recap this thread:
Here's a screen grab from your link:


Foot->mouth, much?


Have you got anything to contribute other than noise, loud?