New owner and getting things planned for changes
New owner and getting things planned for changes
So just bought a black 2010 Fit Sport... love it all except the no power. Just came from a 200hp Si and the Fit makes me cry when merging on the highway. I bought this car knowing it wouldn't be very fast but the space and the style just said buy me... so thats what I did.... I do wish I had kept my Civic as a play car though.
My goal is some light mods to hopefully get around 130-150whp, 2012-2014 headlights (with the black around the inside since it would go well with my black Fit), stickier tires, sound deaden the interior, and figure out a way to fit a subwoofer under the back seat with it still being able to fold down.
From what I have read all bolt-ons except a supercharger the stock ECU will just reduce the power back down to more fuel efficiency. Is this correct? I would like to keep the stock sound of the muffler if possible.
The headlights... am I correct the ones I want were on there between 2012 and 2013? Any other years?
For the tires edging towards 205/55/16 Bridgestone Potenza RE11 or RE970AS Pole Position. For tire size is this acceptable or can I get wider without it bulging? (I want the sizing to look almost factory)
Anyone had any luck with an 8-10inch subwoofer being able to fit under the seat with the seats still being able to lay flat? With any luck plan on running about 1000 watts between all the speakers. Will the alternator on this car stand up to the extra load or will it kill it with a quickness?
Any other mods I should be considering for a fun daily driver?
I know this is a series of questions but through my reading I am not finding too many posts that just have the numbers but I will keep reading while hoping for a response to some of these.
My goal is some light mods to hopefully get around 130-150whp, 2012-2014 headlights (with the black around the inside since it would go well with my black Fit), stickier tires, sound deaden the interior, and figure out a way to fit a subwoofer under the back seat with it still being able to fold down.
From what I have read all bolt-ons except a supercharger the stock ECU will just reduce the power back down to more fuel efficiency. Is this correct? I would like to keep the stock sound of the muffler if possible.
The headlights... am I correct the ones I want were on there between 2012 and 2013? Any other years?
For the tires edging towards 205/55/16 Bridgestone Potenza RE11 or RE970AS Pole Position. For tire size is this acceptable or can I get wider without it bulging? (I want the sizing to look almost factory)
Anyone had any luck with an 8-10inch subwoofer being able to fit under the seat with the seats still being able to lay flat? With any luck plan on running about 1000 watts between all the speakers. Will the alternator on this car stand up to the extra load or will it kill it with a quickness?
Any other mods I should be considering for a fun daily driver?
I know this is a series of questions but through my reading I am not finding too many posts that just have the numbers but I will keep reading while hoping for a response to some of these.
Planning to crawl the junk yards to eventually find 2 decent ones. My Civic was a go cart and thats fun but decided its time for something a little softer.
I've dailied my past two cars on coil-overs, I actually prefer the ride a little bumpy strangly, Depo Needs to get going on some fit headlights, I have their tails on my car, and had depo brand headlights on a previous car. Love em
My goal is some light mods to hopefully get around 130-150whp,
From what I have read all bolt-ons except a supercharger the stock ECU will just reduce the power back down to more fuel efficiency. Is this correct? I would like to keep the stock sound of the muffler if possible.
For the tires edging towards 205/55/16 Bridgestone Potenza RE11 or RE970AS Pole Position. For tire size is this acceptable or can I get wider without it bulging? (I want the sizing to look almost factory)
Anyone had any luck with an 8-10inch subwoofer being able to fit under the seat with the seats still being able to lay flat? With any luck plan on running about 1000 watts between all the speakers. Will the alternator on this car stand up to the extra load or will it kill it with a quickness?
From what I have read all bolt-ons except a supercharger the stock ECU will just reduce the power back down to more fuel efficiency. Is this correct? I would like to keep the stock sound of the muffler if possible.
For the tires edging towards 205/55/16 Bridgestone Potenza RE11 or RE970AS Pole Position. For tire size is this acceptable or can I get wider without it bulging? (I want the sizing to look almost factory)
Anyone had any luck with an 8-10inch subwoofer being able to fit under the seat with the seats still being able to lay flat? With any luck plan on running about 1000 watts between all the speakers. Will the alternator on this car stand up to the extra load or will it kill it with a quickness?
205/50/R16 will be the closest to stock diameter and pretty much any tire in that size will be way better in most respects than the stock Dunlops. That's the size that most people run on the sport. Currently I'm running the new Kumho PA31's in that size and they seem to be pretty nice for the money and I just found out perform pretty well in light snow/ice as well.
I don't think you'll be able to fit a sub underneath the back seats and still have them fold because they fold down into the floor because of the magic seat setup leaving no room between the seats and floor. You could have a custom box made and take out the spare tire and put it there. I have an 8" Bazooka tube mounted in the right side of my hatch area that works pretty well and doesn't take up too much space. It's easy to unplug and take out if I have to also.
Good luck with your mods!
You should consider opening and painting your current headlights to save you hundreds of dollars.
All you have to do is remove 5 screws around the perimeter of the lens and bake it for 7 mins at 265, take it out and the lens will peel off nicely.
You'll than have access to the chrome bezel which is screwed into the lens from the inside. Take a can of black paint and voila, don't forget to let the paint cure for at least a full day with good ventilation.
Putting them back together is just as easy. some say you need new sealant, but it's not entirely necessary as long as you clamp the lens onto the base firmly while the stock sealant cools. You can also just put the screws back in right away to hold the lens in firmly while it cools off.
All you have to do is remove 5 screws around the perimeter of the lens and bake it for 7 mins at 265, take it out and the lens will peel off nicely.
You'll than have access to the chrome bezel which is screwed into the lens from the inside. Take a can of black paint and voila, don't forget to let the paint cure for at least a full day with good ventilation.
Putting them back together is just as easy. some say you need new sealant, but it's not entirely necessary as long as you clamp the lens onto the base firmly while the stock sealant cools. You can also just put the screws back in right away to hold the lens in firmly while it cools off.
Thanks for the advice and knowledge. The headlight mod I have considered but would prefer to find a decent used set or maybe depo will get around to making some.
The more engine power was confirmed... If i am going to dump enough for a Supercharger I would probably save a little more and kswap... Which I am not going to do.
The sub below the seat.... I am going to check it out and see if there is any possible way... I bought this car for the nice carrying options... So would hate to fill it with a sub box. I guess if I can't figure out something with the seat maybe I can do a fiberglass side of the trunk or spare tire.
With the tire swap why go 50 instead of 55? I am responding from my phone and tried to wrap up everyone responses in this post so if it was already answered ignore me and I'll read it after I post this.
The more engine power was confirmed... If i am going to dump enough for a Supercharger I would probably save a little more and kswap... Which I am not going to do.
The sub below the seat.... I am going to check it out and see if there is any possible way... I bought this car for the nice carrying options... So would hate to fill it with a sub box. I guess if I can't figure out something with the seat maybe I can do a fiberglass side of the trunk or spare tire.
With the tire swap why go 50 instead of 55? I am responding from my phone and tried to wrap up everyone responses in this post so if it was already answered ignore me and I'll read it after I post this.
Ebay $250 knockoff headlights. They're not OEM I don't think...
Headlights Headlamps Left Right Pair Set New for 2012 Honda Fit Sport | eBay
Do the Kouki headlights bolt up to the Zenki GE? I know the bumper is different. If not you can just use the Zenki base headlights, they're darkish grey instead of chrome.
Go supercharger if you're looking for that kind of power right now, tuning options right now are limited to piggybacks.
Welcome to the boards
Headlights Headlamps Left Right Pair Set New for 2012 Honda Fit Sport | eBay
Do the Kouki headlights bolt up to the Zenki GE? I know the bumper is different. If not you can just use the Zenki base headlights, they're darkish grey instead of chrome.
Go supercharger if you're looking for that kind of power right now, tuning options right now are limited to piggybacks.
Welcome to the boards

A 205/55R16 is a taller tire than the 205/50R16 (which also happens to be the equipped tire size on the GE8 Fit if you get the Honda accessory wheels). So effectively speaking, when you run the taller 205/55 you'll essentially will be running a taller final drive ratio (think going from 3.55 gears to 3.23s, reducing acceleration but increasing top speed gear wise) which will not help you during merging or any moments were you NEED to accelerate as quickly as possible.
Here's a visual comparison using the factory size of 195/55R16 as a base line and using both the 205/50 and 205/55 as a comparing tire.
185/55 vs 205/50 Note how close the speedometer accuracy is.
185/55 vs 205/55
And the 205s compared to each other...
205/50 vs 205/55
Hello and welcome to the forum! 
A 205/55R16 is a taller tire than the 205/50R16 (which also happens to be the equipped tire size on the GE8 Fit if you get the Honda accessory wheels). So effectively speaking, when you run the taller 205/55 you'll essentially will be running a taller final drive ratio (think going from 3.55 gears to 3.23s, reducing acceleration but increasing top speed gear wise) which will not help you during merging or any moments were you NEED to accelerate as quickly as possible.
Here's a visual comparison using the factory size of 195/55R16 as a base line and using both the 205/50 and 205/55 as a comparing tire.
185/55 vs 205/50 Note how close the speedometer accuracy is.
185/55 vs 205/55
And the 205s compared to each other...
205/50 vs 205/55

A 205/55R16 is a taller tire than the 205/50R16 (which also happens to be the equipped tire size on the GE8 Fit if you get the Honda accessory wheels). So effectively speaking, when you run the taller 205/55 you'll essentially will be running a taller final drive ratio (think going from 3.55 gears to 3.23s, reducing acceleration but increasing top speed gear wise) which will not help you during merging or any moments were you NEED to accelerate as quickly as possible.
Here's a visual comparison using the factory size of 195/55R16 as a base line and using both the 205/50 and 205/55 as a comparing tire.
185/55 vs 205/50 Note how close the speedometer accuracy is.
185/55 vs 205/55
And the 205s compared to each other...
205/50 vs 205/55
So just bought a black 2010 Fit Sport... love it all except the no power. Just came from a 200hp Si and the Fit makes me cry when merging on the highway. I bought this car knowing it wouldn't be very fast but the space and the style just said buy me... so thats what I did.... I do wish I had kept my Civic as a play car though.
My goal is some light mods to hopefully get around 130-150whp, 2012-2014 headlights (with the black around the inside since it would go well with my black Fit), stickier tires, sound deaden the interior, and figure out a way to fit a subwoofer under the back seat with it still being able to fold down.
From what I have read all bolt-ons except a supercharger the stock ECU will just reduce the power back down to more fuel efficiency. Is this correct? I would like to keep the stock sound of the muffler if possible.
The headlights... am I correct the ones I want were on there between 2012 and 2013? Any other years?
For the tires edging towards 205/55/16 Bridgestone Potenza RE11 or RE970AS Pole Position. For tire size is this acceptable or can I get wider without it bulging? (I want the sizing to look almost factory)
Anyone had any luck with an 8-10inch subwoofer being able to fit under the seat with the seats still being able to lay flat? With any luck plan on running about 1000 watts between all the speakers. Will the alternator on this car stand up to the extra load or will it kill it with a quickness?
Any other mods I should be considering for a fun daily driver?
I know this is a series of questions but through my reading I am not finding too many posts that just have the numbers but I will keep reading while hoping for a response to some of these.
My goal is some light mods to hopefully get around 130-150whp, 2012-2014 headlights (with the black around the inside since it would go well with my black Fit), stickier tires, sound deaden the interior, and figure out a way to fit a subwoofer under the back seat with it still being able to fold down.
From what I have read all bolt-ons except a supercharger the stock ECU will just reduce the power back down to more fuel efficiency. Is this correct? I would like to keep the stock sound of the muffler if possible.
The headlights... am I correct the ones I want were on there between 2012 and 2013? Any other years?
For the tires edging towards 205/55/16 Bridgestone Potenza RE11 or RE970AS Pole Position. For tire size is this acceptable or can I get wider without it bulging? (I want the sizing to look almost factory)
Anyone had any luck with an 8-10inch subwoofer being able to fit under the seat with the seats still being able to lay flat? With any luck plan on running about 1000 watts between all the speakers. Will the alternator on this car stand up to the extra load or will it kill it with a quickness?
Any other mods I should be considering for a fun daily driver?
I know this is a series of questions but through my reading I am not finding too many posts that just have the numbers but I will keep reading while hoping for a response to some of these.

But in case your not a troll, I will take some time to try and help.
First I would first recommend the K&N Intake system:
Heres the part number and the Dyno they ran to show the actual gain... i'm pretty sure its not WHP either its just 4.53 Horses to the crank.
69-1017TTK
Estimated HP(?): 4.53 HP @ 5900 RPM
Next I would run some fully synthetic oil. Doesn't necessarily give you gains on a car like ours, but it should give you the confidence to actually mash your gas pedal. (saying this because I still think you post doesn't give the car enough credit unless you're driving an automatic)
Third if you're a baller like you sound like you are talking about superchargers, I would get some light weight racing wheels like some RPF1's or 949 racing or some other shit. Just do a search for wheels on tire rack or something and sort by weight from lightest first. Go with 15 inch too to go even lighter. (I'm not sure that you'll like this idea though because it seems you want both function and form with the whole speaker sub thing.)
Fourth thing that conflicts with your Speaker idea, is to take out your spare tire and jack for additional weight savings, and if your more hardcore just gut the damn car.
Lastly if you're really baller why don't you just get a supercharger and call it a day or sell the fit and get something faster? Or you could go help the guys on this board sign that hondata petition so they'll make one for our cars.
Again sorry if I come off as a dick but the faster you make up your mind the happier you will be with your car, just don't be like that other dude in the other thread who put 215 width tires in the rear and 185 width in the front so he could be hella dumb
Last edited by itslex; Jan 31, 2014 at 07:59 PM. Reason: typo!
Hi Jon, Welcome to the forum. Check out this link for the headlights. They're listed for $204 for the pair, although I still like connor55's DIY suggestion.
HEADLIGHT FIT 09-11 BASE BLACK PAIR at HeadlightsDepot.com | Top Quality Headlights at Affordable Prices
HEADLIGHT FIT 09-11 BASE BLACK PAIR at HeadlightsDepot.com | Top Quality Headlights at Affordable Prices
I need to see this ...
Your car must be an autotragic... I have no problem getting up to speed on a highway and I live in california where it's either 80mph (130ish/kph) or gridlock traffic... just down shift to third and gas. And you do realize what WHP stands for right? Sorry if I sound like a dick but really guy? our cars have 117 Horse stock to the crank. The horse power loss from the crank to the wheels is safe to say anywhere between 10-20% so you're looking at your car making 93-105 WHP right now. Your "Light mods" to hopefully get around "130-150whp" isn't going to do shit. If you're trolling you've got me good though and for that you got me good! 
But in case your not a troll, I will take some time to try and help.
First I would first recommend the K&N Intake system:
Heres the part number and the Dyno they ran to show the actual gain... i'm pretty sure its not WHP either its just 4.53 Horses to the crank.
69-1017TTK
Estimated HP(?): 4.53 HP @ 5900 RPM
Next I would run some fully synthetic oil. Doesn't necessarily give you gains on a car like ours, but it should give you the confidence to actually mash your gas pedal. (saying this because I still think you post doesn't give the car enough credit unless you're driving an automatic)
Third if you're a baller like you sound like you are talking about superchargers, I would get some light weight racing wheels like some RPF1's or 949 racing or some other shit. Just do a search for wheels on tire rack or something and sort by weight from lightest first. Go with 15 inch too to go even lighter. (I'm not sure that you'll like this idea though because it seems you want both function and form with the whole speaker sub thing.)
Fourth thing that conflicts with your Speaker idea, is to take out your spare tire and jack for additional weight savings, and if your more hardcore just gut the damn car.
Lastly if you're really baller why don't you just get a supercharger and call it a day or sell the fit and get something faster? Or you could go help the guys on this board sign that hondata petition so they'll make one for our cars.
Again sorry if I come off as a dick but the faster you make up your mind the happier you will be with your car, just don't be like that other dude in the other thread who put 215 width tires in the rear and 185 width in the front so he could be hella dumb

But in case your not a troll, I will take some time to try and help.
First I would first recommend the K&N Intake system:
Heres the part number and the Dyno they ran to show the actual gain... i'm pretty sure its not WHP either its just 4.53 Horses to the crank.
69-1017TTK
Estimated HP(?): 4.53 HP @ 5900 RPM
Next I would run some fully synthetic oil. Doesn't necessarily give you gains on a car like ours, but it should give you the confidence to actually mash your gas pedal. (saying this because I still think you post doesn't give the car enough credit unless you're driving an automatic)
Third if you're a baller like you sound like you are talking about superchargers, I would get some light weight racing wheels like some RPF1's or 949 racing or some other shit. Just do a search for wheels on tire rack or something and sort by weight from lightest first. Go with 15 inch too to go even lighter. (I'm not sure that you'll like this idea though because it seems you want both function and form with the whole speaker sub thing.)
Fourth thing that conflicts with your Speaker idea, is to take out your spare tire and jack for additional weight savings, and if your more hardcore just gut the damn car.
Lastly if you're really baller why don't you just get a supercharger and call it a day or sell the fit and get something faster? Or you could go help the guys on this board sign that hondata petition so they'll make one for our cars.
Again sorry if I come off as a dick but the faster you make up your mind the happier you will be with your car, just don't be like that other dude in the other thread who put 215 width tires in the rear and 185 width in the front so he could be hella dumb

So as it stands for me the will eventually happen to this car... windows tinted, headunit, new speakers all around, sound deaden when I wire up the amps and speakers, wider tires when current ones wear out, eventually headlight swap. Few grand so not that big of a deal for a car I will keep for 8yrs.
Maybe this will give me the motivation to finally project car an EG or AP.
Last edited by Jon H; Jan 31, 2014 at 09:49 PM.
I drop mine into third most of the time when entering an on ramp. No trouble at all merging. Sometimes I even have to slow down.
Yeah decided earlier in the thread I will just be happy with its current power. Dumping 4k into this engine is not happening. A play car will be in the works and keep this one for the DD. Only thing I am still undecided on is where the sub is going to end up. And not a baller... but not broke either. When I mention light mods that can be just about anything that doesn't involve me needing to pull the engine (swapping etc). A supercharger is a light mod.... a turbo... not so light. So happy... yep very happy with it for its cost and utility.
So as it stands for me the will eventually happen to this car... windows tinted, headunit, new speakers all around, sound deaden when I wire up the amps and speakers, wider tires when current ones wear out, eventually headlight swap. Few grand so not that big of a deal for a car I will keep for 8yrs.
Maybe this will give me the motivation to finally project car an EG or AP.
So as it stands for me the will eventually happen to this car... windows tinted, headunit, new speakers all around, sound deaden when I wire up the amps and speakers, wider tires when current ones wear out, eventually headlight swap. Few grand so not that big of a deal for a car I will keep for 8yrs.
Maybe this will give me the motivation to finally project car an EG or AP.
I don't care what people say but I still hold firm to my argument that this Fit would be a blast to take on the track and I feel somewhat qualified to know as I have a civic si, ED7 (or EF9 for the JDM heads) that i've built specifically for the track. Even as under powered as the car is I am still sure I can pass faster cars through the turns and pass the kid who brough out the yaris on the main straight. My EF is stock single cam, no vtec, and probably makes similar HP to my Fit after all the bolt ons. I'm not THAT skilled of a driver but I am passing FRS's and BRZ's at buttonwillow with a 23 year old car dude!

Don't understimate the Fit!!!!

Oh and @Connor55
Last edited by itslex; Feb 1, 2014 at 12:54 PM.
Bro, how the heck is a Supercharger a light mod!? I agree that the Fit is awesome for it's cost and utility. I guess my argument was that people don't give the car enough credit when they say its "slow" or whatever. Maybe because I got it in stick and you didn't specify if yours is an automatic. Paddle shifters just aren't the same thing. I am sometimes thrown in the mix like you though, wanting audio for the car (which I ended up with putting my old JL 10 inch in) or wanting more speed which to me would mean gutting the damn thing, but that would take away from a lot of what the car is good for.
I don't care what people say but I still hold firm to my argument that this Fit would be a blast to take on the track and I feel somewhat qualified to know as I have a civic si, ED7 (or EF9 for the JDM heads) that i've built specifically for the track. Even as under powered as the car is I am still sure I can pass faster cars through the turns and pass the kid who brough out the yaris on the main straight. My EF is stock single cam, no vtec, and probably makes similar HP to my Fit after all the bolt ons. I'm not THAT skilled of a driver but I am passing FRS's and BRZ's at buttonwillow with a 23 year old car dude!
Don't understimate the Fit!!!!
I don't care what people say but I still hold firm to my argument that this Fit would be a blast to take on the track and I feel somewhat qualified to know as I have a civic si, ED7 (or EF9 for the JDM heads) that i've built specifically for the track. Even as under powered as the car is I am still sure I can pass faster cars through the turns and pass the kid who brough out the yaris on the main straight. My EF is stock single cam, no vtec, and probably makes similar HP to my Fit after all the bolt ons. I'm not THAT skilled of a driver but I am passing FRS's and BRZ's at buttonwillow with a 23 year old car dude!

Don't understimate the Fit!!!!

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