I doubt there will much of an advantage in the rear beam to use a hard (SHA 90) poly. There isn't much weight back there to deform the bushing and notice a huge difference. In the front, there control arm are supporting the engine and trans, the bushing deformation is going to be much more, and poly would be advantageous.

In other words; I suggest using the the urethane (of SHA 55) for the rear, its easier to work with. Stiffer isn't always better.

 

This one was a messy job. I made such a mess that I couldn't take any pics with hands full of that adhesive.... you need a second hand...
If you can't remove the Rear Axle, you can't really fill the thing, unless you get down, dirty and push it in!
Suggestion: push adhesive from one side until you see it coming out, towards outside, in this way you know is completely full.
The bushing sits more to the inner side of the car, outter side a small gap. Carefull when removing the Screw, cause a bad angle you could damage the inside metal of the bushing. Not difficult removing it. There is a gap of 1 mm between the screw and the bushing's inner metal, dont know if that is good or bad.
I used DOW's urethane, and i made a mess...inevitable...
Front Bushing was done also. In a new pair of low arms.


You can see that the low Arm bushing has the attachment top-botton. It moves left and right easily, doesnt move up-down that easily. Tire hit/push on road bumps, transforms into an inwards push at this bushing. Therefore the filling will help reduces the transmission of this "pushing". Make sure you fill completely for better results.




What I gained: Steering wheel is more responsive, less impact noise when passing thru a >3 cm road gap.
Car's "bump" noise when passing thru a road gap at 60km/hr is much softer and less dramatic.

What if a layer of 3mm rubber is added at juntion of the lower arm and the car's frame?

 

If you got new lower arms, you should have picked up the Insight's aluminum arms. Still want to get them, but would need to get roll-center adjusters again as well.

 

You can't install roll center adjusters on those aluminum arms. It is very difficult to remove and press in a new ball joints into an aluminum arm without damaging the arm.

 

Haha. Does Dow make that urethane in a chalk-gun application? I couldn't imagine doing by hand was easy.

 

Yeah I found a tube of Urethane, but i decided for the DOW window sealing, that came in a "sausage" type of packing, and I got this caulking gun, but the tip was huge, black, couldn't make difference in where was i filling in, then the tip broke on the side, adhesive going everywhere... so I just opened the sausage and used my hands ( gloves on) to feel and pressure out the air inside the bushing, until I felt it was completely filled then i ended up with black hands.
Luckily i had double rubber gloves, otherwise, big nightmare.....
Doing it with hands gave me confidence of a filled bushing..

 

Question for those that have done this. I finally attempted this today and gave it a once over to see what I was getting myself into. I know you guys have the GE and mine is a GD but i'd imagine that the rear is near similar.

When you remove the bolts from the bushing does the beam just come down with ease? It looks as if the exhaust and fuel lines would get in the way or you just work with it.

 

Sorry, I dont know what the underneath of a GD looks like. Can you post pics of what you are talking about? I can't imagine the fuel lines run under the axle!?!

I used Rhino Ramps to lift the rear off the ground; the rear suspension was loaded the entire time. Then I unbolted both sides. Next I used a Pry Bar to get the bushings out of the body mounts.

Note: you will need to let this dry for at least 48 hours before reassembling.

 

Hmm i'll try and snap a photo tomorrow. I think i'll give it a go as well.

 

Back on few months ago, when i pushed the dow Urethane adhesive into the front bushings, and then replace them, did also left side of the back Rear Axle Bushing unattended... I live in China, too many fake stuff, and buying some stuff from overseas, seemed quite expensive (but easier perhaps), thats why I went "nasty" and this is why:

I did most of my Sound deadening ( floor, roof, doors, whole
trunk, Engine bay (Factory Insulator out, Included dashboard upper lid), thick tubbing into the door seals ( both inner and outter), Undercoating 3M paint (including fenders), Lower back Grommets completed ( missing after purchase), KYB shock absorbers x 4....But the noises coming from the gaps/uneven roads here, was just annoying... something that no sound deadening improved...

I considered this project ( thanks to the Poster). An I had a great improvement... softness on the ride... with the front/Left bushings filled. Since I am a man of science, the Right unattended was the test,to see if this really made any difference...

For the last 6 months i been hearing the loud "clank" noises from the unattended Right Back Axle bushing...that reminded me how good this DIY is... and I kept pretending for the last months that I had no time to get messy again...

But now I have done it, instead of using the "gun" i opened the gut of the Dow Poly package ( which, lucky me, was not dried -surprised-), covered my hands in 3 pairs of rubber gloves and sqqqquueeezee the stuff in... I repeat, i went down on the car, grab Poly with my hands and sqqquuueeeezzzeee it into the Bushing.....

I have a new level of softness and even now is winter and took 3 days for it to feel hard ( after 24 hours it felt too soft at touch).

I am convinced that this is a MUST DIY... Seems the 3rd Gen changed the front lower arm but kept same bushings on the back..

 

I am glad you had such positive results.

I am not the first person to do this to a car. So I can't take all the credit. This is a common (and inexpensive) mod that can make nice on-track improvements to a DD. I personally would like a full set of solid-polyurethane bushings; but for a DD this is a nice way to get that "sporty" feel without losing drivability.

I'm curious about your clank or noise. I wonder if your suspension was too stiff for the the OEM bushings. In other words; the bushing was too soft and would respond too quickly (before the spring could take effect) bottoming out and knocking... Or if you unknowingly are masking another problem like a worn out bushing. How many miles are on you vehicle?



Note: I can't stress this enough: drying times are crucial!


______________

 

i have 40,000 km.

Well i wrote "clank" but was not a metallic sound of pieces hitting each other... otherwise the story would have ended differently... lol

I am looking forward stiffing more stuff into that fit... lol

 

The noise actually comes from the link of the right back seat, on the screw between the top and bottom parts.... gonna stuff something there too ( the guys who changed the seats cover probably messed it up)

 

At 50,000 km i started to have a quite noisy harsh at the back again, when I checked the bushes, the fillings basically popped out on both sides of each side... Lol
Will have to do it again... Grrrrrrr

 

Silicone may be more flexible than poly, avoiding this issue?