Does anyone know a way to to rotate that hub without taking out the axle? for some reason my transmission is engaged on the front wheel, and the hub is locked in 1 position.

 

Put the transmission in Neutral.

 

The transmission is in neutral and the passanger side is movable but driver side locked. When the car is in first gear both wheels are locked

 

Just did a wheel stud in mine and it required pulling the hub altogether. Not hateful, but worse than it should have been. Love the fit, but jeez some things are designed weirdly.

 

Yeah but couldn't the hub move freely when its in neutral?

 

Should be able to. Mine certainly did. I have a manual trans not sure if that's related. Either way, it should move.

 

But are you also sure there is transmission fluid in there? Just a spitball.

 

I semi forgot to mention that I did kinda hammer 1 stud at the 12 o'clock position. But it doesn't look like its hitting the hub at all.

The CV popped out a few days ago and I popped it back in and installed my bilatein coilover. My car is a manual transmission as well. I want sure if there was some kind of locking mechanism I was unaware about

 

I would just double check the CV install was correct. Other than that I'd be interested in the solution. 😳 Weird problem.

 

just got back from work and took another look at it, it looks like there is some contact between the stud and the hub.. i really don't want too but... i am going to pull it back thru and see if it free's the hub

Stay tuned!

 

ok it really was stuck!! so now iam at the notching/grinding phase, how much am i supposed to take off? i don't see any pictures or old threads about how much to shave off. here is what i have shaven off so far, do i need to go farther? deeper? both?

 

Cut the hat off the stud, but you will probably find you can't get a new stud in place no matter what.

Remove knuckle. Remove hub from knuckle. Replace stud(s).
Probably want to replace wheel bearing at this point.

 

would this trick work? Wheel Stud Replacement - HondaCivicForum.com

 

Try it, you have nothing to lose.

That's how I replace wheel studs for many cars, when clearances are tight (BUT you can't bend the wheel stud to get it into the hole!)
IF you can get the old stud out 85% complete, a new one can go in the same way.

I've even notched the knuckle like you did to make room in addition to cutting an edge off the stud. (don't compromise the strength of the casting though!)

But sometimes all that work doesn't help one bit.
Pretty sure you will find there just isn't enough clearance on the Fit.

If you have a hub puller you might be able to yank the hub loose after removing the axle nut, but it will separate the outer race from the bearing when it comes out.

 

well.. if i can get the old ones out.. a new one might not go in the same way because like you said, they are not bendable and the new studs are longer because they are not broken!

 

iam trying to search this forum and google and i can't find any confirms that this can be performed on a GE8, it looks like people do it on the GD plenty

 

ok iam giving up on the grinding you might be right...

iam taking out the nuckle now and iam down to just taking it off of the arm and that little side bar that looks like some kind of sway bar.

how do you remove it from those 2 last thigns? i already have removed the pins and unbolted it, but it wont come off.

 

OK so that other thing is called a tie tod. Iam about to watch some Eric the car guy and I will report back my progress

 

Tapered interference fit has a tight grip. I beat on the stationary part (knuckle) with a hammer to break the taper loose

 

iam being a little bitch, iam going to get a tie joint remover..

i freaken dented up my arm's.. and that ball joint still won't come out!