TPMS ---- Will this suck a bunch cash out of wallet
#1
TPMS ---- Will this suck a bunch cash out of wallet
Hello,
I have a TPMS light on..........
It is a 2009 Base model fit......
I am doomed to pay lots of money to get this lite out.....
Bad enough it is in the stem of the tires(but where else could have possibly been installed?)
It is just annoying to see the light on all the time.
I do most of my work myself, due to expenses....
Is there a way to determine which sensor is bad....
I really am figuring that they are probably all bad........(IE: failed batteries)
Any input on this topic would be greatly appreciated....
Thanks, Just
I have a TPMS light on..........
It is a 2009 Base model fit......
I am doomed to pay lots of money to get this lite out.....
Bad enough it is in the stem of the tires(but where else could have possibly been installed?)
It is just annoying to see the light on all the time.
I do most of my work myself, due to expenses....
Is there a way to determine which sensor is bad....
I really am figuring that they are probably all bad........(IE: failed batteries)
Any input on this topic would be greatly appreciated....
Thanks, Just
#2
Well if you had a Cdn Fit no problem. We do not get sensors here. We have to actually look at our tires to see if down some and use a gauge to check them. If I were you I would ignore the light. Maybe a small piece of tape over the light.
My Dodge Caravan has sensors in the summer wheels. I ignore the light in the winter when have my snow tires on.
My Dodge Caravan has sensors in the summer wheels. I ignore the light in the winter when have my snow tires on.
#4
If it were me, I would buy a 4 pack of sensors from eBay, Amazon, or Rock Auto and have them installed at next tire change. They aren't expensive and aren't expensive to install if done during a tire change.
#6
When I had a 2010 Fit and rotated the (real) spare into the rotation I just put a piece of black electrical tape over the light. But with my 2016 I'm glad that's not an issue. A few weeks ago I got a flat on a highway- couldn't feel it because by the time I pulled over the pressure was still down to only at 22 psi. Without TPMS I might've been driving back home, late at night, on a road with few options to pull over, when it finally ran out of air.
#8
When the TPMS light is "on", it could mean that one of the sensors is broken off by a tech on a tire machine, the battery is dead, the the sensor was never programmed for the vehicle, or there's something wrong in the receiving / processing end of the system (car's computer). Many tire / repair shops have a reader (Snap-On, etc) that can pin point a bad / dead sensor. If one or more are dead and these are many years old, it's a good idea to put new ones in all the way around if you're putting on new tires. Nothing worse than paying for mounting / balancing and then have a bad sensor that requires paying for that again.
Two times when that happened to me, I used a shop marker (yellow) and put matching dots on the tire and the wheel, so the shop could put the tire back together nearly identical after the sensor was changed.
Last edited by spike55_bmw; 12-07-2018 at 07:01 AM.
#9
If you have D.I.Y skills and tools? This will suck less cash out of your wallet.
But, yes this will cost you something to fix.
I'm not good at ignoring things. So ignoring the light would not be my recommendation or my approach. TPMS can be a pain to deal with, when it breaks or isn't working, but it is a good safety feature. If it saves you once from driving on a damaged or under inflated tire, it easily could be saving your life and the lives of others. I'd definitely fix it.
But, yes this will cost you something to fix.
I'm not good at ignoring things. So ignoring the light would not be my recommendation or my approach. TPMS can be a pain to deal with, when it breaks or isn't working, but it is a good safety feature. If it saves you once from driving on a damaged or under inflated tire, it easily could be saving your life and the lives of others. I'd definitely fix it.
#10
when we refer to something as being
”not expensive”.
Whst are we really making reference to.
What is our “go to” comparison.
“A cheezie synthetic rubber valve stem?”
I have these rims I may go and purchase
”and as far as I am concerned”. The rims,
with sensors are expensive(and they are used)
It would be good if I can determine something
relevant as to the condition on these sensors
(IE: if there is still battery life) etc. etc.
I have basic electrical testers/ meteters.
Is there a way to accomplish this?
how about a scanning app for sensors?
does one exist?
you get my picture?
What “the shade tree” can I do to accomplish
this task, rather than get sucked into the
”meat grinder society system” that technology
cloaks with...
thanks, J
”not expensive”.
Whst are we really making reference to.
What is our “go to” comparison.
“A cheezie synthetic rubber valve stem?”
I have these rims I may go and purchase
”and as far as I am concerned”. The rims,
with sensors are expensive(and they are used)
It would be good if I can determine something
relevant as to the condition on these sensors
(IE: if there is still battery life) etc. etc.
I have basic electrical testers/ meteters.
Is there a way to accomplish this?
how about a scanning app for sensors?
does one exist?
you get my picture?
What “the shade tree” can I do to accomplish
this task, rather than get sucked into the
”meat grinder society system” that technology
cloaks with...
thanks, J
#11
Listen, I'm a hardcore DIY'er, but I don't mount and balance my own tires. Do you?
This is just not something to get worked up over. For under $40 you can buy the entire set of 4 sensors from eBay. Call a local tire shop and ask them what they will charge you to program the 4 sensors and install them when you buy tires.
You're not being "sucked into the meat grinder society system." You are instead saving yourself the cost of buying a tire mounter, tire balancer, and programmer for the sensors.
This is just not something to get worked up over. For under $40 you can buy the entire set of 4 sensors from eBay. Call a local tire shop and ask them what they will charge you to program the 4 sensors and install them when you buy tires.
You're not being "sucked into the meat grinder society system." You are instead saving yourself the cost of buying a tire mounter, tire balancer, and programmer for the sensors.
#12
Also, keep in mind that if you buy those set of wheels with sensors, you will still need someone to program them to your car.
This is NOT giving into some imaginary evil force. This is called efficiency. It's not efficient for every human on the planet to purchase the programmer. It is more efficient to let a shop buy the programmer and then pay them for their services.
Or, don't get sucked into anything and buy something like this... https://www.tirerack.com/tpms/detail...&cat=TPMS+Tool
Also get yourself a propane torch to mount the tires.
Have fun!
This is NOT giving into some imaginary evil force. This is called efficiency. It's not efficient for every human on the planet to purchase the programmer. It is more efficient to let a shop buy the programmer and then pay them for their services.
Or, don't get sucked into anything and buy something like this... https://www.tirerack.com/tpms/detail...&cat=TPMS+Tool
Also get yourself a propane torch to mount the tires.
Have fun!
Last edited by GAFIT; 12-07-2018 at 09:17 AM.
#13
Check page 177 in the owner's manual
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p...3/K61313OM.PDF
If the TPMS light is on, you cannot disable VSA. This would be a real problem in the snow.
#15
I find it mind boggling, though, that someone who doesn't want to be sucked into some kind of trap, is considering taking their car to the dealership for something that EVERY tire shop in the world can easily handle.
#16
My tpms light came on a little over a week ago.
I have a 2009 Fit Sport and I believe it is the drivers side front that is bad, because the valve stem seems a little stripped and the rear valves look newer than the front ones.
I'm going to replace both front ones.
The best option appears to be to buy the sensors yourself and call around your local tire places to see what they cost to install and program them.
Generally $50 seems about right for the install. Seen it as low as $20 and as high as $100 if you have the parts.
Dealer cost for parts and install can be $500 or more.
I think it can be done by myself. First step of course is the same. getting the parts:
42753-TR3-A81 (tpms)
42755-SHJ-A51 (washer)
42754-SHJ-A71 (nut)
Nut of course is optional if you think yours are good, but I would still get the washer.
Next is installing, which this video explains well:
Note: go to 1:46, ignoring the universal tpms talk. Honda's seem to not like aftermarket tpms.
Finally is programming. I'm looking at the right thing to get. I think around $100 for the device. I'll post later with what I decided.
Of course given the cost of the device it may just be worth paying for someone to install/program them.
I have a 2009 Fit Sport and I believe it is the drivers side front that is bad, because the valve stem seems a little stripped and the rear valves look newer than the front ones.
I'm going to replace both front ones.
The best option appears to be to buy the sensors yourself and call around your local tire places to see what they cost to install and program them.
Generally $50 seems about right for the install. Seen it as low as $20 and as high as $100 if you have the parts.
Dealer cost for parts and install can be $500 or more.
I think it can be done by myself. First step of course is the same. getting the parts:
42753-TR3-A81 (tpms)
42755-SHJ-A51 (washer)
42754-SHJ-A71 (nut)
Nut of course is optional if you think yours are good, but I would still get the washer.
Next is installing, which this video explains well:
Finally is programming. I'm looking at the right thing to get. I think around $100 for the device. I'll post later with what I decided.
Of course given the cost of the device it may just be worth paying for someone to install/program them.
Last edited by SiXiam; 12-08-2018 at 07:03 PM.
#17
oooooh OK !!!
#19
This one is even better.
ATEQ Quickset is all you need, though this person also used another device and a third party tpms. With the Quickset alone you can read the current codes and program the new ones into the car computer (which are on the sensor itself).
The Quickset doesn't help to tell you which sensor is bad. In another video some guy was using what looked like a software defined radio to see if they were transmitting, though it was in Spanish so I couldn't understand what they were saying. May be a cheap option to diagnose only.
edit: And now I'm reading something about OEM honda tpms needing some type of activation. The journey of figuring this all out continues...
Last edited by SiXiam; 12-08-2018 at 11:55 PM.
#20
Honda TPMS Wake up procedure (found on another site):
I just ran into this situation after installing 4 brand-new sensors in my summer wheels. The sensor needs to be "woken up" using the following procedure:
Step 1: Inflate the tire to 44psi
Step 2: Deflate it to 20psi.
Step 3: Reinflate to the recommended pressure.
Step 4: Drive for a few hundred yards.
For some reason, brand-new sensors need this before they will function properly, even if the scan tool says they're reading correctly.
I just ran into this situation after installing 4 brand-new sensors in my summer wheels. The sensor needs to be "woken up" using the following procedure:
Step 1: Inflate the tire to 44psi
Step 2: Deflate it to 20psi.
Step 3: Reinflate to the recommended pressure.
Step 4: Drive for a few hundred yards.
For some reason, brand-new sensors need this before they will function properly, even if the scan tool says they're reading correctly.