A/C problem.
#1
A/C problem.
Hi guys first post here! Got a ge8 (2010 sport) about a month ago. My A/C was blowing on all 4 settings up until yesterday. Now it will only blow high on 4 this goes for heat as well. Any ideas?
Other than this minor issue I love my fit. Got a great deal on a super clean car.
Other than this minor issue I love my fit. Got a great deal on a super clean car.
#2
#4
A hard install? Never really had to work on AC units in any car I've owned.
#6
#7
#10
Might wait a month or two. The A/C blowing on a high setting doesn't bother me as much as the heat will. I like to stay warm but too much heat is uncomfortable.
#11
Bogus
Told you guys I would update you. Found the carfax and the blower mitor has been replaced before. I'm not gonna go to all that trouble and money until it stops blowing all together. Did tip the glove box done and it seems like a pretty easy swap.
#15
Yeah but I read about a few guys just replacing the switch wasting 30 bucks and having to replace the motor and switch all over again.
#16
Just ran into the same problem and went to the Honda dealer with the TSB number 09-097 and they took care of it for free. I did call into Honda corporate first to get a case number to see if they can do it as a goodwill repair since I was out of warranty. I would try to call Honda first to see if they can help you get it fixed. Good luck.
#18
Typically, the switch is OK, but the resistor (or "regulator") is toast. There are three parts to the system: the switch, the resistor, and the motor. The switch selects various resistances on the resistor that are inline with the motor, the bigger the resistance the lower the blower speed. High speed bypasses the resistor altogether and sends the full power to the motor. Off, of course, breaks the circuit entirely.
Generally, the resistor dies by overheating and melting a fusible link in the unit. This can be because of age or damage to it, or a severely clogged cabin air filter (the resistor itself is in the ductwork to have some forced-air cooling), but most commonly on the Fit is due to a defective motor with a bad bearing, which causes it to draw more current than it should otherwise draw. If the motor is bad, replacing the resistor is not a long-term fix; the new one will die just as the old one did in comparatively short order. It's necessary to replace the blower motor as well with a new one (of fixed design/production). That's what the TSB is about, and many dealers will do it for free if you ask as it's a known, documented defect from Honda.
On some (domestic?) vehicles, the resistor and switch are integrated into the same unit, but I that's not the case with Honda. On other vehicles, particularly those with electronic controls, some sort of a solid state controller is used rather than a simple switched resistor bank.
Generally, the resistor dies by overheating and melting a fusible link in the unit. This can be because of age or damage to it, or a severely clogged cabin air filter (the resistor itself is in the ductwork to have some forced-air cooling), but most commonly on the Fit is due to a defective motor with a bad bearing, which causes it to draw more current than it should otherwise draw. If the motor is bad, replacing the resistor is not a long-term fix; the new one will die just as the old one did in comparatively short order. It's necessary to replace the blower motor as well with a new one (of fixed design/production). That's what the TSB is about, and many dealers will do it for free if you ask as it's a known, documented defect from Honda.
On some (domestic?) vehicles, the resistor and switch are integrated into the same unit, but I that's not the case with Honda. On other vehicles, particularly those with electronic controls, some sort of a solid state controller is used rather than a simple switched resistor bank.
#20
https://www.scribd.com/doc/26128795/...tor-TSB-09-097
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08-17-2010 08:57 PM