Hi,

I am going to add Amplifier with High Level Input but I am going to keep the stock Head Unit.
I prefer not splicing/tapping/cutting the wiring at the HU or behind the HU.

I want to make "in between adaptor", (basically a female and male in between connector), so when I want to sell my car, all I have to do is
remove those "in between connector" and the factory wiring will still be original.

Since my car is a Fit Sport, it came with the steering wheel volume and channel control and I would like to keep that function.

I heard that the Metra wiring kit # 70-1729 (Female connector) and 71-1729 (Male connector) do not have the cable for Steering Wheel Volume and Channel control, so If I use this Metra kit, I will lose that steering wheel function. I read about this from one of the review at Amazon. Is this true?

How about Scosche kit ? (Kit# HA11B Male and Kit HA11RB Female Connector),
did the Scosche kit had the cable for steering wheel control included?

Thank You

 

You've got a couple of options. You can tap into the wiring leading from the body side and jump across the harness that you are making. You could add the wire to the new harness that you are making but you will have to source the two pins to add to the harness. Either way is simple, the second way would look cleaner, but slightly more difficult whereas the first will be an obvious sign that afterrmarket add on.

 

Hello, Thank You for Your Information.
By the way,
Do you know where I can buy the two small pins into that harness connector?
I think I need both male and female pins right?

 

You might be able to find a computer repair shop that might have some, or find a stereo shop that has an old spare harness that they can get you a few pins out of. One thing to verify is that there are many different pin sizes and styles so make sure you get some that are the correct size. Yes you are correct that you will need both male and female.

 

Great Idea Lashlee,
Thank You again for pointing me in the right direction.

 

Worst case, you can always buy two of each of the Metra adapters and steal pins out of the extra. Those pins are not a common type that you're likely to find elsewhere. You could easily spend more in time and gas trying to source replacements than you'd spend just ordering an extra of each.

I wanted to bring the steering wheel controls out of the stock wiring harness for an aftermarket Navi system I'm installing rather than use wire taps, so I picked up an extra 70-1729 and pulled a couple pins out of it to add to the other harness.

It is fairly simple to get the pins out of the male connector - if you look at the pin end, on the outside edges you can see some small, flat plastic tabs inside the housing that retain a tab on the pin. Lift (or break) that tab with a small metal tool (needle, precision screw driver, etc) while applying some light pulling pressure to the wire and the pin will come right out.

It might be easier to have a helper pull the wire if you have trouble seeing the tab and lifting it while pulling.

 

Hi, Thanks for the reply,
May I ask you,
What Brand/model is the Aftermarket Navi Unit that you bought that can directly
interface with the steering wheel control using the factory wiring?
Do you need to buy an extra device to connect the aftermarket navi unit with the steering wheel control?
Thanks

 

I'm still awaiting the remainder of my parts, but I am installing a Parrot Asteroid Smart.

I plan to use the Parrot Unika to interface with the steering wheel controls - it's not listed specifically for the FIT, so I'm not 100% sure it will work, but I think the Fit's resistive controls are the same as the Civic. The Unika is the only option for the Parrot Asteroid steering wheel integration.

I'll update in a couple days when the Unika shows up!

 

If an amp is wanted, look up a wiring diagram for the factory radio harness and tap into the speaker wires. Walmart has a $15-20 scosche converter to RCA. all it needs is speaker signal. TAP. do not just cut and wire directly. Saves effort in future to reconnect if anything goes wrong or whathave you

For the remote wire for an amp, any vehicle wire that is hot with the key and motor on will work. Be safe and run a fuse. if tapping directly to a fuse location, be smart and use those add-a-fuse things. They will work properly. I suggest a fuse no larger then 5 amps, as each amp tipically draws less then 500 mil amps (0.5 amps)

 

Parrot Asteroid is finally installed with Unika steering wheel controls. It's pretty slick - essentially an Android tablet with a ton of USB inputs on the back.


The Unika is NOT plug and play (or even follow the book), but I was able to get it all installed without cutting/tapping any factory wiring and only a few minor mods to the various Parrot harnesses for the Asteroid Smart and Unika.

The Unika learns the resistance values during configuration - there are no default values, so it should work with any combination of buttons.

I did see it have one "freak out" where the Unika was sending endless volume up button presses (good thing I wasn't driving!) which caused the Asteroid to get really laggy - it was difficult to get into the setting menu and disable the steering wheel remote while the Unika was hammering the UI with button presses!

 

Wow,
Congratulations
If it is possible and when you have free time,
please wrote a DIY thread of your installation so other (including me),
can learn from your experience installing this Unika system.
Thanks