And so it continues...system build *pics*

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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 03:03 AM
  #1  
orgasm_donor's Avatar
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And so it continues...system build *pics*

I have been slowly but surely building my system in my 2010 Fit Sport over the past year and a bit. I have noticed that there haven't been too many larger professional builds on this site for some reason. There are a ton of Fits so you'd think some people have gone a bit nuts on them no? I digress....

My system is not all that big really. But it does incorporate a lot of the type of car audio gear that I like and like to sell too. Here is my list:

Battery: Kinetik HC1800 up front
Head unit: Pioneer AVIC-Z140 DVD Navigation unit (soon to upgrade to NEX7000)
Front speakers: Focal KRX2 minus the crossovers
4-channel amp: Digital Designs DDS4A (125X2, 200X2) running the speakers fully active. No passive crossovers involved!
Mono amp: Digital Designs M2B (2300 watts RMS @ 1ohm)
Subwoofer: Digital Designs DD3512D2
Enclosure: Custom built 4th order (vented) tuned to 36 hz.
Wiring: Streetwires, EFX Hex series
Sound deadening: Wirez 2 mm and Focal Bam mat.

I am not currecntly using a DSP because I am keeping my costs down for sales purposes. If I compete next year, I will be running a Mosconi 6 to 8.

The car:
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My little battery...LOL
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Starting up the tweeter 'pods'. The KRX2 tweeter cups fit in the grille area of the factory tweeter after I cut it out with a dremel.
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I filled in the Focal logo because I wanted the pods to look somewhat stock:
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A little test fitting...looking pretty good!
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The mids are next. First I wil need to sound deaden the doors.
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The amps are all wired up and bolted into place. Lots of nice, clean power!
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Here's the beast of a sub! It absolutely pounds like you wouldn't believe. I figure it's hitting about 144 or so DB. Still, this sub and enclosure were meant to sound clean and smooth!
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That's it for now. I will be working on this project throughout the winter so I will keep y'all updated (only if you want).
 

Last edited by orgasm_donor; Nov 17, 2014 at 03:07 AM.
Old Jan 19, 2015 | 04:58 AM
  #2  
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Do you have pics of the head unit installed?
 
Old Feb 10, 2015 | 02:52 AM
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orgasm_donor's Avatar
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I do have pictures. If I have time I will upload them to Photobucket (worst photo sharing site on the planet).
 
Old Feb 27, 2015 | 10:50 PM
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Don't your lights flicker like crazy on 2300 watts or did you upgrade the Alt?
 
Old Feb 28, 2015 | 12:33 AM
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No not at all. Mind you, the massive battery, voltage meter, big three ground and alternator wire upgrade and LED headlights do help a lot!
 
Old Feb 28, 2015 | 01:56 PM
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I have the Kinetic battery as well, the big 3 upgrade and pushing 1200 watts rms. If I crank it up, my lights flicker on the 2012. I used Kflex, OFC wire, solid copper terminals, short ground direct to frame, 2 gauge wire from alternator which was a pain to connect on that alt btw...
 
Old Feb 28, 2015 | 03:12 PM
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The LED headlights do help A LOT I must say.
 
Old Feb 28, 2015 | 05:47 PM
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Is it as easy to change as the regular bulb? Where do you get them at?
 
Old Feb 28, 2015 | 06:20 PM
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orgasm_donor's Avatar
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They are like HID's to change so not hard at all really. Make sure they are Cree and that they have a ballast and fan. I got mine from Ebay.
 
Old Mar 20, 2015 | 01:31 AM
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no problems with depth on those mids? what'd you use for spacers? i used 3/4" HDPE (plastic cutting board material) for mine and it fits well. i didn't bother to measure depth though - the drivers i'm using currently are 2.75" and i'm going to be upgrading soon, curious how much depth we've got while still clearing the windows...
 
Old Mar 20, 2015 | 03:08 AM
  #11  
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Honestly, you can't go much deeper than 2.75". I used 3/4" high densiry polystyrene and it was ridiculously close to the window. Any deeper and you will need to modify the door panel.
 
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 05:15 PM
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interesting, those krx2's are ~3" deep correct? not looking for a lot here, but would like to hit the 3" range as it opens up a lot of options
 
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