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Redshift Koni Coilovers Review

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  #41  
Old 08-28-2013, 09:15 PM
Wanderer.'s Avatar
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So you removed the rear bar to reduce the weight transfer onto the front which was putting the tire onto the sidewall?

Camber curve is a b*tch on macstrut cars! Don't you have like -100 degress camber already
 
  #42  
Old 08-28-2013, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Wanderer.
So you removed the rear bar to reduce the weight transfer onto the front which was putting the tire onto the sidewall?

Camber curve is a b*tch on macstrut cars! Don't you have like -100 degress camber already
Haha perdy much. The more to the story bit included mega grippy/aggressively abrasive concrete, 100+° ambient temps, dampers set too soft, psi too low, new drivers in car, aaaand hot lapping it :'/

BUT, the rotation slow/mid speed and breakaway is FAR more consistent. So I'm happy. Was also weight reduction
 
  #43  
Old 08-28-2013, 09:29 PM
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Oh and yea, I'm currently at -3.5° static camber up front considering going to -4...
 
  #44  
Old 08-28-2013, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by TPColgett
I actually removed my rear bar to also assist in cutting back "doglegging."
There is more to the story, but I was WAY overloading my outside front tires..
Hello TPC,

I am just wondering,
what if you put 16in wheel with lower profile tire,
so the shorter and stiffer side wall will give you less flex and might help prevent overloading your outside front tire...

I presume the larger wheel would also increase the response/feel,
increase the grip and at the same time you might not need to increase your already high spring rate...

and you also don't need to increase your negative camber too...

I know that 16in wheel might be a bit heavier,but
at an autox which mostly first and second or maximum third gear used...
it might not make that much different... or is it?
and the added grip that it should give (more contact patch area) might over come it's weight disadvantage in timing...

plus the stiffer side profile and the lower side profile should give you more "feel" and "precision"...

oh, since you also had to remove your rear sway bar to prevent the doglegging,
perhaps putting 15in wheel at the back and 16in at the front (without rear sway bar) might
give you that oversteer ability back... since now the front tire have more grip than the rear (is the rule allow this?)

what do you think?
 

Last edited by BMW ALPINA; 08-29-2013 at 12:02 AM.
  #45  
Old 08-29-2013, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Wanderer.
So you removed the rear bar to reduce the weight transfer onto the front which was putting the tire onto the sidewall?

Camber curve is a b*tch on macstrut cars! Don't you have like -100 degress camber already
that would be cool... then he's have 5 reverse gears.
 
  #46  
Old 01-23-2014, 01:31 AM
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What exhaust does that fit has ? Where can i get it ? For how much ?
 
  #47  
Old 10-14-2014, 01:44 PM
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I am using this setup with 350F/440R springs. I had my first autocross with these this past weekend and on course it is a wonderful improvement. Definitely noticeably harsher. I used a calculator and set my front dampers around 100lb force@3in/sec and the rears to run at 80lb@3in/sec. Which is just above half on the front and just below half on the rear shocks. You guys are lucky to have such a flat place to run compared to where I am. The Fedex Field lot is all on the side of a hill. On the first run I noticed the roll was reduced a lot. I ended up running times similar to pre-coilover times, but I set it up for 3/16" toe out and seem to have set it up positive camber which reduced steering input effectiveness and lacking front grip lol.
 
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