Parts needed for suspension refresh
#1
Parts needed for suspension refresh
Hi all,
My shocks/struts are done as they are causing my tires to bounce and form a valley in the tread of the tire.
Just trying to find out besides shocks/struts and mounts, what else do I need to get?
Also, has anyone had reason to replace the control arm bushings before 200k miles? Think I'm gonna need ball joints as the boot is starting to rip, but the wear in the bushings looks fairly typical. Just seeing what other people did. Thanks
My shocks/struts are done as they are causing my tires to bounce and form a valley in the tread of the tire.
Just trying to find out besides shocks/struts and mounts, what else do I need to get?
Also, has anyone had reason to replace the control arm bushings before 200k miles? Think I'm gonna need ball joints as the boot is starting to rip, but the wear in the bushings looks fairly typical. Just seeing what other people did. Thanks
#2
Recently did struts/shocks/springs, strut mounts, outer tie rod ends, and sway bar links on our 2011, 95k miles. The sway bar links really made a difference (Moog, from RockAuto) - the old ones were worn out, you could hear them clunk on choppy pavement, and the new ones have better joints as well as stiffer rod, and they're super cheap, might as well do them while you're in there as you have to disconnect one end anyway when replacing the strut.
#7
I may have used new bolts at the base of the shocks as well, can't remember. But other than that, just swapping in the new parts right out of the box, pretty simple.
The control arm bushings are still OK, as are the ball joints, but those won't go another 100k I'm certain. Will likely do them at 125k or sooner. I bought sway bar mount bushings, but could only get one of them installed (passenger side). The driver's side was impossible to access the mounting bolt without dropping the subframe, so I'll replace it when I do the control arm.
The control arm bushings are still OK, as are the ball joints, but those won't go another 100k I'm certain. Will likely do them at 125k or sooner. I bought sway bar mount bushings, but could only get one of them installed (passenger side). The driver's side was impossible to access the mounting bolt without dropping the subframe, so I'll replace it when I do the control arm.
#9
Damn, I just looked up the price of a new arm assembly, looks like ge8 ones cost 2x more than gk5
https://www.hondapartsguys.com/oem-p...ZC1tYW51YWw%3D
I recently purchased new arms, in the name of minimizing down time as I'm installing urethane bushings and rca's on the control arm. Looks like this is not a wise path for everyone else
+1 on the moog problem solver end links, those things are not only BEEFY, but the grease fittings are a huge plus. and not that this matters to most people but.... I find taking off the moog's are better than oem, no stupid allen keys needed and less chance of stripping/breaking stuff
https://www.hondapartsguys.com/oem-p...ZC1tYW51YWw%3D
I recently purchased new arms, in the name of minimizing down time as I'm installing urethane bushings and rca's on the control arm. Looks like this is not a wise path for everyone else
+1 on the moog problem solver end links, those things are not only BEEFY, but the grease fittings are a huge plus. and not that this matters to most people but.... I find taking off the moog's are better than oem, no stupid allen keys needed and less chance of stripping/breaking stuff
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