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Parts needed for suspension refresh

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  #1  
Old 11-26-2018, 09:13 PM
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Parts needed for suspension refresh

Hi all,

My shocks/struts are done as they are causing my tires to bounce and form a valley in the tread of the tire.

Just trying to find out besides shocks/struts and mounts, what else do I need to get?

Also, has anyone had reason to replace the control arm bushings before 200k miles? Think I'm gonna need ball joints as the boot is starting to rip, but the wear in the bushings looks fairly typical. Just seeing what other people did. Thanks
 
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:01 PM
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Recently did struts/shocks/springs, strut mounts, outer tie rod ends, and sway bar links on our 2011, 95k miles. The sway bar links really made a difference (Moog, from RockAuto) - the old ones were worn out, you could hear them clunk on choppy pavement, and the new ones have better joints as well as stiffer rod, and they're super cheap, might as well do them while you're in there as you have to disconnect one end anyway when replacing the strut.
 
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:08 PM
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Yeah, that is something else I was planning on that I forgot to mention. Was there anything you had to replace hardware wise?
 
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:10 PM
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I used new bolts for the struts at the base.
 
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:13 PM
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Sway bar link, original on top, Moog replacement on bottom. The nice thing about the Moog is that they have zerk fittings so they can be greased as well.
 
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:18 PM
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Hmm, funny. Not much to replace then. My Jetta had far more bits to replace. Thanks for the help!
 
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:24 PM
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I may have used new bolts at the base of the shocks as well, can't remember. But other than that, just swapping in the new parts right out of the box, pretty simple.
The control arm bushings are still OK, as are the ball joints, but those won't go another 100k I'm certain. Will likely do them at 125k or sooner. I bought sway bar mount bushings, but could only get one of them installed (passenger side). The driver's side was impossible to access the mounting bolt without dropping the subframe, so I'll replace it when I do the control arm.
 
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:34 PM
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I'm almost at 170k miles and I think I may skip the bushings as they are beefier than others I've seen and still intact. Still have to change ball joints though.
 
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Old 11-27-2018, 01:19 AM
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Damn, I just looked up the price of a new arm assembly, looks like ge8 ones cost 2x more than gk5

https://www.hondapartsguys.com/oem-p...ZC1tYW51YWw%3D

I recently purchased new arms, in the name of minimizing down time as I'm installing urethane bushings and rca's on the control arm. Looks like this is not a wise path for everyone else




+1 on the moog problem solver end links, those things are not only BEEFY, but the grease fittings are a huge plus. and not that this matters to most people but.... I find taking off the moog's are better than oem, no stupid allen keys needed and less chance of stripping/breaking stuff
 
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