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Another Oil / Blow-by Catch Can Install - Long Edition :)
3rd Gen GK Specific Fit Engine Modifications, Motor Swaps, ECU Tuning Sub-ForumThreads discussing engine mods/swaps/tuning for the third generation GK Honda Fit.
those of you who running the mishimoto clone, the bottom can leak! I took my apart, cleaned/degreased and used loctite blue on the threads and will let it dry over night.
(mostly wiped off, but you can still see some traces of the oil leaking past the threads)
consider plumbers tape?
ive taped my three fittings. i thought my in and out ones were leaking, but it appears to just be the tape being stained by the oil.
you can try a leak "test"....which doesnt account for pressure, but on next cleaning maybe try finger plugging the in/out and dunking it in a bucket of water to check for air bubbles/leaks on actual threads.
^^^^^ as stated... That Mishimoto clone is for sure using a tapered pipe plug. Plugs needs pipe thread sealant or teflon tape. I have not owned this can but I can tell you from the pictures and the type of plug that comes with the can, that is a pipe thread.
Concern with a previous pic where the drain valve was bottomed out. Pipe threads should get tight before the valve ever bottoms out on the bottom of the can. If these are second hand, this might be why.... They may have tapped the bottom hole too deep. Very little pressure means the pipe tape will be plenty.
As for loctite that was mentioned... Remember, Loctite is to keep bolts, sleeves, and pins from moving in different applications. Unless the Loctite looks like this
UPDATE .... back on the rick approved catch can. the mishimoto clone has weak hardware up top, and i stripped a screw while trying to turn/re orient the top portion
ordered a 2nd can from amazon, and the new replacement has 1 stripped screw out of the box (I promise, it wasnt me this time)
Couple notes: I switched that wire bundle to the other open ground hole on the aluminum engine flange (where most people are using to mount their bracket). I just think doing it this way puts lets stress on the wire bundle. I also took a cutting wheel to my bracket so it fits better and I can use both screw holes to mount my can to it. I am not running any stainless steel wool yet because I am paranoid about it (1) rusting and (2) getting shavings sucked up
Couple notes: I switched that wire bundle to the other open ground hole on the aluminum engine flange (where most people are using to mount their bracket). I just think doing it this way puts lets stress on the wire bundle. I also took a cutting wheel to my bracket so it fits better and I can use both screw holes to mount my can to it. I am not running any stainless steel wool yet because I am paranoid about it (1) rusting and (2) getting shavings sucked up
the grounding relocation is pretty sweet, nice job!
for those of you keeping track, YES ... this is a indeed a Rick Approved Authentic Catch Can
thanks for the update and pics Borgus. Mind sharing more info?
It would be cool to know:
A. Year
B. Mileage
C. Transmission
D. Type of separator (Cheap Baffled Can - Cheap Baffled with xxxx media - compressor water/oil separator - etc... )
E. Picture or picture with measurement of what you caught trying to make a pass through your engine.
F. Optional opinion of your driving style (low revs - normal driver - every road is a race track)
Originally Posted by Borgus
Updated my pics. 425 miles driven and more oil caught than I had anticipated .
A. Year: 2018
B. Mileage: ~20,200 on the car. About 1,800 miles since the last time the can was emptied.
C. Transmission: CVT
D. Type of separator: Amazon/Ebay baffled can with scrubber pads
E. Estimated 100ml of fluid that smells almost entirely of exhaust,gas, and anything else that makes your nose burn.
Fairly easy driver, lots of highway but also lots of 2 mile trips. Tons of temp variation with it being freezing outside and the car also being garaged.
With the basics being mentioned above, I will add:
I am shocked with this. I am surprised that even with a one hour drive, the catch can is cold to the touch. This makes me wonder if it is helping to create condensation in the can. Because the can becomes untouchable in the summer, I expected some warmth in the can. I cannot believe how powerful the fuel smell is.
Little foamy so it's more like 100ml
past drain is on the left and recent drain is on the right. I am curious how much air is in this last drain.
Current drain while sitting next to the catch can.
Last edited by CyclingFit; Jan 14, 2019 at 01:11 PM.
I too can confirm the same results of my last oil change. Very strong fuel smell. Oil change was fine though. I'd say it is doing what it should be doing. I do a lot of highway driving for work, but local around town and towing my 5x8 trailer. Im careful when towing taking it easy not to overtax the engine, so far good results.
Anyone took photos of their intake tract after installing the Catch Can for some time?
For sure the Can is doing it's job and it would be interesting to know how well it works after some long term usage.
Anyone took photos of their intake tract after installing the Catch Can for some time?
For sure the Can is doing it's job and it would be interesting to know how well it works after some long term usage.
Opposite of what you are looking for but I wanted to keep it here for reference in the future. This link goes directly to pictures of valves in a 2015 with about 130,000 miles: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...ml#post1404142
Okay.... I've heard a few comments about oil catch cans in the winter and them creating condensation. There seems to be a lot of truth to this idea. The cold aluminum can that is being blasted by cold winter air and has very hot air traveling through it. This causes condensing of the moisture rich air and a large buildup of water in the catch-can.
I haven't put much thought into whether this is hurting or helping. I don't know if the high humidity air can actually act as cleaner for the valves. I am sure there is some benefit to not having water in the combustion process, but also the amount would be so little that I am sure it could not matter.
I am estimating that this is probably 80-100ml of liquid and almost entirely water.
Left to right is my first, second, and today's emptying of the catch can.
I believe when this one completely settles it will be almost entirely moisture.
My scowling pads are pretty ugly on the bottom, probably thanks to the water causing gunk... Since they are 3 for about $2, I grabbed a pack while at Target. Labor and cleaning supplies aren't as easy as throwing $2 at this... I use 2 at a time so maybe if my other single turns up, I'll have another set for later.
Picture is the bottom, so it's worst case. I am sure I could pour something in, shake it around and pour it out, but oh well....
I would simply remove it, prior to going in for warranty related work.
It shouldnt take anymore than 5 mins to cut zip ties, un screw catch can, and re plug oem pcv hoses.
EXACTLY. I would not want to risk leaving it intact even though we believe it should be helping improve the life of the car. I need to find my factory PCV hose just in case I need to do a quick drop off for something warranty related. I installed my can and immediately we moved houses, so it's likely gone forever.
I may be dropping off the face of the planet for a few weeks. I will try to get some updates stored on my phone and give a mass update to this thread in the next month or so. Bike race season is going into full throttle, our new house will need exterior spring yard work, work picks up so making posts this time of day is nearly impossible, etc...
One of my last posts showed the milky watery oily substance on the bottom of my scrubber pads.. I cannot even remember what I say in this video since it has been maybe two weeks ago, but I am sure I babbled about something that was easier to babble about, compared to putting into writing.
I am maybe 3 weeks from an oil change - I'll give some updates at that time. Also, hopefully I can get the time and motivation to look into a used oil analysis kit.