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Hitch Wiring

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Old Jan 8, 2015 | 02:47 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Chazman
I will be pulling a Kawi standup ski on an el-cheapo super light trailer shown below.



Escalade with 6.0L used to be my tow vehicle - yes, it was an overkill.

That should be no problem at all.
 
Old Jan 8, 2015 | 03:06 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Bassguitarist1985
The Trailer has electric brakes and a 3500 pound axle.
Did the trailer come with the electric brake or did you install it after you bought the trailer?
 
Old Jan 10, 2015 | 10:37 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Bassguitarist1985
So you can power the trailer lights separately and not overload the stock wiring harness. You need to run it off its own separate fuse. Check my thread. I have all the details of the exact module you have.
How did you run the green wire to the right side?

And how did you run the trailer connector from the left pocket of the car to be accessible for use with a trailer?
 
Old Jan 10, 2015 | 11:30 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by SilverEX15
How did you run the green wire to the right side?

And how did you run the trailer connector from the left pocket of the car to be accessible for use with a trailer?
1. I removed the plastic threshold and wire tied it underneath it

2. I ran the wires underneath the left corner of the fabric material inyo the spare tire well. I takr it out of the well when I want to use it and stick it out the back hatch. It wont harm the weather stripping if the 4 way flat connector wire is flat against the strip. If that makes sense.
 
Old Jan 10, 2015 | 12:15 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Bassguitarist1985
1. I removed the plastic threshold and wire tied it underneath it

2. I ran the wires underneath the left corner of the fabric material inyo the spare tire well. I takr it out of the well when I want to use it and stick it out the back hatch. It wont harm the weather stripping if the 4 way flat connector wire is flat against the strip. If that makes sense.
I usually like to find an out of the way place to run wires - some place where the wires won't get damaged. I thought I'd run the green wire down the seam at the edge of the floor and the rear and then down into the tire well and back up. I also thought of running it through plastic tubing, since I have quite a bit of that. I had to solder some wire onto the green so I'd have enough to work with.

I think I'll do the same thing with the 4-way connector - keep it out of the way. The hitch arrived a few minutes ago. I'll take pictures of that and the wiring when I go out later. Gotta get warmed up!
 
Old Jan 10, 2015 | 01:48 PM
  #26  
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As I said you are extremely brave! Im waiting to install my air struts once the weather is better. Yes my baf I forgot to mention that the green wire was not made long enough to reach the right turn signal wire.

Sounds like you are progressing along well!
 
Old Jan 10, 2015 | 01:57 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Bassguitarist1985
Yes my baf I forgot to mention that the green wire was not made long enough to reach the right turn signal wire.
Imagine if someone wanted to put this wiring on a full size car.

Of course, it might be possible to move the whole module closer to the right side of the car, but I prefer to have it tucked away.
 
Old Jan 10, 2015 | 06:21 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by SilverEX15
Imagine if someone wanted to put this wiring on a full size car.

Of course, it might be possible to move the whole module closer to the right side of the car, but I prefer to have it tucked away.

Yessir. I like that it is hidden on the left side inside the wheel well. Granted you need to extend the green wire to the right side a little bit but that is not bad.
 
Old Jan 11, 2015 | 10:03 AM
  #29  
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After connecting the wires from the light unit to the Fit, there is a black wire, which is for power, but there is also a white wire with a ring connector on the end. Is that for ground?
 

Last edited by SilverEX15; Jan 11, 2015 at 10:11 AM.
Old Jan 11, 2015 | 10:16 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by SilverEX15
After connecting the wires from the light unit to the Fit, there is a black wire, which is for power, but there is also a white wire with a ring connector on the end. Is that for ground?
Yes. You are correct
 
Old Jan 12, 2015 | 07:25 PM
  #31  
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Despite the cold over the last few days, I got my hitch wiring finished, and it works. I got a little $5.00 tester, and when I plugged it in, everything worked.

The next project will be the hitch. I hope it warms up a bit.
 
Old Jan 12, 2015 | 08:30 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by SilverEX15
Despite the cold over the last few days, I got my hitch wiring finished, and it works. I got a little $5.00 tester, and when I plugged it in, everything worked.

The next project will be the hitch. I hope it warms up a bit.

Nice! Did you add the reverse light relay? You planning on doing a brake controller as well? What hitch?
 
Old Jan 13, 2015 | 08:31 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Bassguitarist1985
Nice! Did you add the reverse light relay? You planning on doing a brake controller as well? What hitch?
I didn't wire it for trailer brakes because my lightweight trailer doesn't have them. I do have a brake controller from my pickup from when I used to pull a travel trailer. I don't see me ever using that, though.

My trailer doesn't have reversing lights. They're replacements for the original 1969 lights. I got a nice set of LED trailer lights at Lowe's.
 
Old Jan 13, 2015 | 09:20 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by SilverEX15
I didn't wire it for trailer brakes because my lightweight trailer doesn't have them. I do have a brake controller from my pickup from when I used to pull a travel trailer. I don't see me ever using that, though.

My trailer doesn't have reversing lights. They're replacements for the original 1969 lights. I got a nice set of LED trailer lights at Lowe's.


Very cool. Yeah my Sure-Trac is being built with a full 7 way including reverse lights by my request. I added trailer brakes because having than not having them was preferred. Less stress on the Fit's braking system. LED's came standard which I thought was cool too.
 
Old Jan 16, 2015 | 03:28 PM
  #35  
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Trailer hith

Curt Mfg. no drilling/cutting/modification what so ever, about a 30min install time.

 
Old Jan 17, 2015 | 01:53 AM
  #36  
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Funny meeting you here, Binh! I guess great minds think alike. Re and i just picked up a 2015 Solar Yellow EX.

That's gonna be my first mod! What are you gonna do about wiring?
 

Last edited by Underboning; Jan 17, 2015 at 02:01 AM.
Old Jan 17, 2015 | 12:12 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Chazman
Did the trailer come with the electric brake or did you install it after you bought the trailer?
I added the electric brakes and axle. Most 5x8 trailers have a 2k axle and smaller tires like 12 inchs. The Sure Trac has the axle as an option and 15 inch radial or ply tires.
 
Old Jan 17, 2015 | 01:22 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Underboning
Funny meeting you here, Binh! I guess great minds think alike. Re and i just picked up a 2015 Solar Yellow EX.

That's gonna be my first mod! What are you gonna do about wiring?

Hahaha....nice to see you here too Co.

I'm not towing a trailer or ever plan on one...had one on a first gen xB ten years ago and only used it once. This is only for a bike rack. What are you guys plan on doing with a trailer?

The Curt really is a great hitch very well thought out with no drilling/cutting/etc. unlike all other hitches that I know of for the FIT.
 
Old Jan 17, 2015 | 04:42 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Bassguitarist1985
Mine will be a 5x8ft utility trailer. Details on my other thread. The hitch is a Curt Class I hitch rated up to 2k gross (trailer and cargo weight) My purposes will likely never exceed 800 pounds of cargo. More than likely less.


The Trailer has electric brakes and a 3500 pound axle. Overkill for my needs but provides way better stopping power than one without. Here is the thread and picture of me test towing a 1200 pound 5x10 trailer.
My receiver is about 12" high. Do you have a straight ball mount coming out of yours receiver? I think my trailer will be at a slight downward angle unless I get I use a ball mount with a 3/4" uplift.
 
Old Jan 17, 2015 | 09:50 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by SilverEX15
My receiver is about 12" high. Do you have a straight ball mount coming out of yours receiver? I think my trailer will be at a slight downward angle unless I get I use a ball mount with a 3/4" uplift.

No. I have a 3-1/8 rise to make my trailer level.

A draw tite 36061 riser comes to mind.
 



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